Proper chain size and grade?

/ Proper chain size and grade? #1  

N80

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Kubota L4400 4wd w/LA 703 FEL
I've got a 19' flatbed trailer that I use to tow my car (3300#) to the track and occasionally tow my tractor (4800#). For the car I have been using tow straps front and back. The straps in the front are a pain to use because of short length and low clearance. I see a number of guys using fixed length chains up front. They hook the car to the chains up front and let the car roll back against them to make them tight, then they cinch the car down even tighter using ratchet straps in the rear.

So my question is, what size and grade chain do I need for this sort of load (3300# car).

Thanks for any advice you can give me.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #2  
why don't you use tire bonnets for the car? The suspension bouncing against the tie downs creates alot of force. It can also cause them to come unsecured.

Any grade 70 chain that meets the load requirements is fine.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #3  
Grade 70, 5/16" chain will be fine for your towing needs. I use 4 chains, 2 front, 2 back, plus each implement has to be secured as well such as bucket, rear mower, etc.
For cars I bought several 3' straps that go around the axles then hook the chains to the straps. Straps are similar to these.
 

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/ Proper chain size and grade?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Grade 70, 5/16" chain will be fine for your towing needs. I use 4 chains, 2 front, 2 back, plus each implement has to be secured as well such as bucket, rear mower, etc.
For cars I bought several 3' straps that go around the axles then hook the chains to the straps. Straps are similar to these.

Thanks guys. I use the straps shown above looped through the wheel. Attaching to front suspension points with a strap like this is possible but difficult due to clearance. Tire bonnets do not work well because of clearance issues with the fender and front bumper (wide tires, very low ground clearance). Suspension movement can be an slight issue but not much. There is not a great deal of suspension travel and it is stiff. I'm no expert in all this but a lot of seasoned track rats and racers tie down the way I'm describing although even amongst these folks there is debate about suspension travel. One racer claims they hit a bump that blew out the shocks and struts of his race car while it was being towed.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #6  
3/8" G70 is what you're going to find at the box store. It is by far the most commonly used.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Tractor Supply has bulk 5/16 G70 too.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #8  
5/16 is more than enough unless you plan on only using 1 chain
 
/ Proper chain size and grade?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Agreed, a 5/16" with a WLL of 4700 lb. per chain at each corner (4 chains) is more than enough to hold the tractor.

For the car it will be two grade 70 5/16" chains up front and two high quality ratchet straps cross in the rear. I'll buy chain and hooks tomorrow. The grade 70 hooks are like $12 each. The chain is like $4 a foot. I'll only need two four foot chains but will need 4 hooks so its going to be close to $90. But, I want to do it right and I think it will be easier than using the ratchet straps up front.

Of course it just now occurred to me that I could just set the front ratchet straps at a set length and do the same thing as the chains. I'll have to think it over.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
That is a good idea. But, I need open hooks with the spring loaded catch. I have seen some of these chain kits with one of each type of hook on the end so that might be an option. I have a pair of long bolt cutters but not sure they will work on 5/16 inch chain.

However, as mentioned above, I might just try doing this with the ratchet straps I have. The problem was ratcheting them down with the ratchet handle so close to the bumper and flat down on the deck of the trailer and ratcheted to almost its minimum length. I think I'll set the straps at minimum length, drive car up closer to the front than it needs to be, attach the straps and then let the car roll back to put tension on them. That way I would not need to work the ratchet handle at all. It still might be too fiddly and if it is I'll try the chains.

Just curious, if bolt cutters won't work, how hard is it to cut this grade of chain with a hacksaw or angle grinder?
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #13  
A die grinder or an angle grinder will do the job in under a minute.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #14  
Angle grinder with a thin cut-off wheel will do it easy. I haven't tried the hacksaw, but I suspect it would do it, you might just have a dull blade at the end. But if have the grinder, that gets my vote.

You might still be able to use the prepackaged chain with the grab hooks if you have room to loop the hook through and back onto the chain on the trailer side, then you would only need your other hooks on the car side.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #15  
I bought a couple of the Home Depot chains and hooks are held on with cotter pin. Easy to remove.
 
/ Proper chain size and grade? #16  
If you don't have a Home Depot close Lowes sells the same chain for the same price. Took about 30sec per cut with my $15 Harbor Freight 4 1/2" grinder with a cutoff wheel. And at that price ($36 for 20') you probably still come out ahead even if you remove the hooks and use another kind.
 

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