L2250 PTO problems

[ancho]

I just picked up a project, it's an L2250 that hasn't been loved much over the years. I'm doing some basic maintenance - fluid and filter changes, cooling system flush, thermostat, etc, but the area where I am a bit unprepared, is in troubleshooting the lack of PTO function.

The rear PTO output shaft, where an implement would attach, does not spin by hand. Is it supposed to? It spins freely on my BX2230.

The PTO engage lever (which operates in an up-down direction, indicating dual clutch), does not move from the middle position. The linkage external to the transmission moves a few mm, and the vertical shaft that enters the top of the transmission moves a few mm, but no engagement occurs.

Where should I begin to look for the problem? I may be OK with splitting the tractor but it sure would be great if that was not needed.

Thanks!

 

[dieselcrawler]

Yikes... that's a bear to get to, I've had an L2850 apart, I assume they are simular in design. I have many pictures of that project, I'll post a few later when I get home.

 

[ancho]

Thanks, that would be great. Interestingly, the LH side of the transmission has "L2850DC" on it. I am guessing it is the same unit used in the 2850.

 

[dieselcrawler]

If I recall, the factory shop manual I was using covered 2250 thru 2850, so yes, they are likely the same.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I just picked up a project, it's an L2250 that hasn't been loved much over the years. I'm doing some basic maintenance - fluid and filter changes, cooling system flush, thermostat, etc, but the area where I am a bit unprepared, is in troubleshooting the lack of PTO function.

The rear PTO output shaft, where an implement would attach, does not spin by hand. Is it supposed to? It spins freely on my BX2230.

The PTO engage lever (which operates in an up-down direction, indicating dual clutch), does not move from the middle position. The linkage external to the transmission moves a few mm, and the vertical shaft that enters the top of the transmission moves a few mm, but no engagement occurs.

Where should I begin to look for the problem? I may be OK with splitting the tractor but it sure would be great if that was not needed.

Thanks!

I have an L2550. ... Yes, the PTO stub should spin by hand - but since it has been neglected/unused for so long it might be stuck a little and the 2 or 3 ft-lb you can do by hand doesnt turn out to be enuf. You need to apply a little leverage to get a feel and see if its really locked.

The PTO lever stuck in center is a problem. Thats the disengaged/neutral between the 2 PTO speeds - so your PTO "gearshift" is stuck ... maybe. There should be a small safety lever that excludes an inadvertent shift into high PTO speed. Try to see if that is giving an issue keeping the main lever centered.

 

[ancho]

I have an L2550. ... Yes, the PTO stub should spin by hand - but since it has been neglected/unused for so long it might be stuck a little and the 2 or 3 ft-lb you can do by hand doesnt turn out to be enuf. You need to apply a little leverage to get a feel and see if its really locked.

The PTO lever stuck in center is a problem. Thats the disengaged/neutral between the 2 PTO speeds - so your PTO "gearshift" is stuck ... maybe. There should be a small safety lever that excludes an inadvertent shift into high PTO speed. Try to see if that is giving an issue keeping the main lever centered.

I already removed the surrounding panel so the safety lever is out of the picture. Thanks though.

Any suggestions how to get some leverage on the stub, to see if I can free it?

 

[repete]

Before you start reefing on stuff, go to the basics. Is it full of hydraulic fluid. Have you tried it with the transmission hot. Is the linkage binding or in need of lubrication?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Do you have a pto implement? Put one end of the telescoping pto shaft on the spline and torque the yoke with pipe pliers. If it doesnt move with 20 ft-lb theres something serious. Maybe have someone try to move the shift lever while you turn the stub back and forth. It may be that the gears are not presently aligned to mesh and will when the stub turns.

 

[ancho]

Before you start reefing on stuff, go to the basics. Is it full of hydraulic fluid. Have you tried it with the transmission hot. Is the linkage binding or in need of lubrication?

The prior owner told me the PTO hasn't worked in years. I brought it home this week and have not run it since. The hydraulic fluid is almost to the top of the sight glass on the LH side of the transmission. I do not see anywhere that the linkage is binding or in need of lubrication. The linkage actuates the vertical rod that enters the transmission, and that vertical rod moves up and down, but only by a couple of mm.

 

[ancho]

Do you have a pto implement? Put one end of the telescoping pto shaft on the spline and torque the yoke with pipe pliers. If it doesnt move with 20 ft-lb theres something serious. Maybe have someone try to move the shift lever while you turn the stub back and forth. It may be that the gears are not presently aligned to mesh and will when the stub turns.

Got it. I have a shaft I can try tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Ive been going thru about 200 pictures I took during the 2850 project... Replacing the trans case. And a few broken pto gears.



The shaft with cast iron lever on the end in the lower right is the pto shift rod.



In this picture the pivoting assembly that transfers the vertical motion into fore/aft horizontal motion is in place, but not the vertical rod.



If the vertical rod moves slightly, its possible the pivot point that the mechanism in the picture above rotates on is froze up.

Unfortunately you would have to split the tractir to access it. Prior to that I would pull the trans cover to check the shift forks... More on that later.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Aha!!! I think i found the trick!



Note the hex head visible on the lower section, it very well may be the outter end of the pivot I mention earlier. I "think" it may be a smooth stud with threaded section that screws into the case wall, removable from the outside! That hex head ligns up with the hole that is where the pivot would go in the second picture in post 11.

 

[ancho]

Aha!!! I think i found the trick!



Note the hex head visible on the lower section, it very well may be the outter end of the pivot I mention earlier. I "think" it may be a smooth stud with threaded section that screws into the case wall, removable from the outside! That hex head ligns up with the hole that is where the pivot would go in the second picture in post 11.

Great pics and info, thanks.

I did remove the top cover from the trans, to verify that the shift forks appear to function correctly. everything visible in that area seemed normal, though being submerged in fluid, I can't see everything below the main shaft there.

 

[dieselcrawler]

You will need to drain the fluid to see the pto shift rail and gears.

 

[ancho]

You will need to drain the fluid to see the pto shift rail and gears.

Just did that this morning. The horizontal rod that actuates the pto shift fork is moving when I jiggle the lever. The fork moves a bit within its groove on the gear, but it appears that the gear may be seized on the shaft. So the linkage all appears ok, the question now is how to free that stuck gear.

 

[ancho]

Rather crusty in there -- normal? Or more likely a sign of neglect and too-infrequent fluid changes?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Just did that this morning. The horizontal rod that actuates the pto shift fork is moving when I jiggle the lever. The fork moves a bit within its groove on the gear, but it appears that the gear may be seized on the shaft. So the linkage all appears ok, the question now is how to free that stuck gear.

I assume you must "reach" down into the case in confined space, so you cant use a brass punch and tap on it directly. ... If you can reach it with the tip of a crowbar/wreckingbar, held vertically, and tap the bar sideways as close to the gear as possible it may break free.

-- Crusty is not normal. There has been water in the fluid. It might explain the gear being stuck. - If so, and you can move it, it should free up with Kroil and be OK.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Ugggghhhhh.... that looks terrible inside. Drain, clean, flush, scrape, flush, etc. Like mentioned above, the splines/gears are likely seized from the rust/water contamination. I've heard of a mix of auto trans fluid and acetone making a good rust penetrating fluid, dump a couple gallons of that in there and soak. You may be able to get it broke loose with a pry bar...


If you click on my pictures, will it connect you to my photobucket account, so you can view other pictures I haven't posted? There are many, you may find some value in looking.