Chipper Wire fence through big chipper?

[bcp]

If you could rent one of these:

Metals Shredding: Steel Rebar (D) - YouTube

Bruce

 

[roadhunter]

Burning piles with a leaf blower is a poor mans air curtain burner. Works great to speed the process up dramatically and helps get the fire going if it's' not dry. Lots of videos on the subject.

 

[roadhunter]

Rent a mini bobcat hoe for a day. Run it like you stole it and dig some deep pits in the area where the brush is. Scrap prices do not pay for the hauling, or recovery of the rusty fence. Stuff the pits with the brush and burn off at night when it is rainy. May take until the snow flies to get it all cleaned up. In Ohio my county commissioner told me there was a state law against open burning. I guess this was just conversation as my fire pit was about 20 yards away- and burning.

What pays for the rental of the hoe then?

Better off to spend that money paying the scrapper to haul the mess away as opposed to making a bigger mess burying it all as well as running up a rental bill.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Using my Makita four stoke leave blower on a bon fire is almost as much fun as using gasoline.

Not that a wood chipping appliance should be subjected to metal. But that is often where commercial/industrial equipment shines and why I love it so. It can often take a lot of abuse. It's almost like it was just a given.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I did something similar when I acquired my property. Some thoughts:

If there are any pressure treated wood posts in there, you need to get them out before you burn. If they're old they have arsenic in them, you don't want the ash poisoning your land or the smoke poisoning the air you breathe.

I agree that it's better to build a small pile and feed if than to build a big pile. If logistics allow, I prefer to keep a fire going and burn as I clear.

A hot enough fire will oxidize a lot of the metal to powder. That said, I had some trouble burning fence and brush together. A brush pile needs a certain density to burn well. The metal in the pile keeps it from collapsing as it burns and the fire tends to go out. I had to burn it twice. The first time all of the little stuff burned but not the big stuff. After the first burn I could easily pull the metal out, and then the residue burned fine.

My local recycler wouldn't take the fencing, said it jammed his baler.

 

[Dadnatron]

I spoke with the State Board of Air Quality... The State regulating authority on burning. According to her... I can burn all the brush and stuff I want without issue. But I can't " burn the wire...."*"... "

I told her that wire wouldn't be burning, but I'd likely be doing a mass annealing. She didn't get the reference, so I let it lay. She was clear that I had nothing to cause a problem, but that I couldn't burn the wire.

I'll talk with the county FD in a week or so and get their input. I don't suspect it will be an issue. In all actuality, I don't think I'll even need to move the piles for most of them. That way, they will remain smaller overall. I had initially thought I'd move it ALL to the center and safest area... But in reality, the locations of most piles is pretty safe where they now sit.

Hopefully, the FD will be willing to give me some pointers along with their blessing. I'd rather remain on their good side.

 

[LouieJunior]

My friend in Vermont likes to have a big fire on their farm every year. He always is amazed to receive permit number 0001. I am not frank enough to tell him he's the only one dumb enough to ever apply for a permit. Burn baby burn!

 

[Dadnatron]

There are several pressure treated posts. I'll be sure to pull them from the piles.

A few steel ousts as well, as I believed at first, that I'd be hauling everything to the dump. I like this burn option much better.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Cheaper to get a $10 permit than have a passerby call the fire department and pay a $150 fine. Make sure you have a good supply of water nearby, preferably from hose and not buckets. Learned that the hard way last year when the field caught fire and my 10' burn zone turned into a 50' burn zone in under 5 minutes.

 

[sixdogs]

My friend in Vermont likes to have a big fire on their farm every year. He always is amazed to receive permit number 0001. I am not frank enough to tell him he's the only one dumb enough to ever apply for a permit. Burn baby burn!

How true.

You aren't burning the wire-it won't burn--so you're good to go. Light it at daybreak some day and call it good.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Cheaper to get a $10 permit than have a passerby call the fire department and pay a $150 fine. Make sure you have a good supply of water nearby, preferably from hose and not buckets. Learned that the hard way last year when the field caught fire and my 10' burn zone turned into a 50' burn zone in under 5 minutes.

Around here first offense is a fine, subsequent offenses are up to 30 days in jail.

Permit is free.

 

[oosik]

When I moved down here there was barbed wire, hog wire & chicken wire in many locations on the property. I "disassembled" my single bottom moldboard plow until I had - essentially - a single shank ripper. Going thru these locations with this unit on the 3-point and set around 6" deep soon brought volumes of wire up. The old boy who homesteaded here DID like his wire!!

Even with my pickup there was no way I could get all the mess to the dump - let alone afford it. So I dug a large burn pit out in one of my open areas and slowly but surely burned the piles. It took all of two years to get all the piles of wire burned.

I noticed that once a pile of wire was completely burned - rusting was immediate and the piles eventually "crumbled" down to an ashy mess. I left the burn pit open for an additional year before covering it and by then all the wire was almost completely rust - IE, very little structural integrity remained.

The biggest concern I had was keeping a sharp eye out regarding the old wire getting caught up in the tractor tires and wrapping around them. It did happen a couple times but I was able to catch it before any damage was done.

I have never heard of any type of implement that is designed to chip or grind fencing wire - at least not on the non-commercial level.

 

[TO_Bud]

As long as you have a good open area for your burn you could wait for a breezy day. Not windy but with a steady breeze. Light the fire on the downwind edge or a section of the downwind end. In my experience with burn piles the fire has trouble advancing up wind. As your first downwind section begins to burn down you could advance 20 or so feet up wind to start a second burn. Keep repeating the process as the sections burn down and you should be able to control the size of the burn at one time a little better.

 

[sixdogs]

As long as you have a good open area for your burn you could wait for a breezy day. Not windy but with a steady breeze. Light the fire on the downwind edge or a section of the downwind end. In my experience with burn piles the fire has trouble advancing up wind. As your first downwind section begins to burn down you could advance 20 or so feet up wind to start a second burn. Keep repeating the process as the sections burn down and you should be able to control the size of the burn at one time a little better.

This is the way to burn stuff and not get in trouble. The wind controls the flame and it's never a towering inferno. We have done it this way for years.