Carter Lumber Pole Building kit info

[Midniteoyl]

I guess there delivery is just store by store.

My last delivery, which also happened to my my first, was a royal cluster.

....

Menards contracts out the deliveries.. and many dont stay long as its just a way to pass time while waiting for a bigger contract. I have seen 3 different people while doing a 6 week job once. Only one was actually good or cared. He also was the guy who was there the shortest time.

 

[Midniteoyl]

They now only offer the discount to veterans three days per year. :-(

I get it every time I go in.. Just ask and flash your ID. Current or Retired Military or VA ID works.. If you are a vet and dont have an ID, go to your local VA Clinic/Hospital and apply to enroll. Once you are enrolled, you should get a VA ID card that you can then use.

 

[TMGT]

Well there's no Menards for a few hundred miles and I'm not in the military.......

So does anyone have experience with the metal trusses?

Also looking into using a steel frame like Strat-O-span.

 

[LD1]

No experience with building with metal. But it was all quite a bit more expensive when I was pricing.

And would either be difficult to build myself or require equipment I didn't have. And insulating/finishing the interior is more challenging

 

[TMGT]

Do you remember what type or brand you priced out?
So far it looks to be pretty close in price.

What type of special equipment did you need? Beams and uprights appear to all bolt together on the Strat-O-span. Also looks like the insulation and interior finishing would be about the same.

Seems like the metal framework would go up quicker and easier then wood and trusses.

Just need to do some more pricing on the exterior stuff to see how they compare.

 

[LD1]

No I dont remember who/where I called. I quickly ruled out all metal. Those beams require footers with properly spaced lags and are heavier to set than building a wood wall. As far as insulation, if you are fine with the 2" thick stuff or whatever it is that they line the insides with...then fine. I wanted 6" walls and 6" insulation. And I wanted a flat bottom on the truss to attach a ceiling and blow in ~R38 worth in the ceiling. Metal buildings have odd spacing on the wall girts, usually 4' or so. Kinda rules out fiberglass batts. And that thin stuff made for metal buildings was pricey for the R-value. As far as interior finishing, I like metal liner panel ceiling and painted OSB walls. That way I can drive a nail or screw and hang whatever I want. Or locate studs and build shelves or whatever. Kinda hard to do those things on an all metal. So I quickly talked myself out of it.

I did price the trusses a little more seriously though. Still about double the cost for 40' span trusses. Thats not double per truss, cause you only use half or less metal trusses. That was double for the job. And long spans, with 2x6's on edge for purlins....just didnt like it. I like 4' OC and 2x4's flat for more area to hit with roofing screws. Not to mention the flat bottoms for ceiling and insulating reasons. A vaulted ceiling, is just more air that I cannot use inside the building but cost money to heat/cool.

 

[TMGT]

I think we are talking about differnt types of metal framing.

The ones I'm looking at aren't the 2x2 box but actual beams spaced 10' OC, I'd have to frame out for the interior either way with a pole barn so don't think that'll be an issue. I actually want the vaulted ceiling for more clearance above the lift and more headroom for when I build the mezzanine, can't really increase my wall height any more.

It's all going to come down to cost so once I get going with material list and shopping around I'll know more.

 

[newbury]

A little late to this thread but - OP - did you check 84 lumber?
I was pricing for building a 20x12 shed and their "kit" was basically just a good list of materials which they generated at some HQ location but in talking with the guy in Manassas it would have been trivial to change and they had the best prices.

 

[LD1]

I think we are talking about differnt types of metal framing.

The ones I'm looking at aren't the 2x2 box but actual beams spaced 10' OC, I'd have to frame out for the interior either way with a pole barn so don't think that'll be an issue. I actually want the vaulted ceiling for more clearance above the lift and more headroom for when I build the mezzanine, can't really increase my wall height any more.

It's all going to come down to cost so once I get going with material list and shopping around I'll know more.

Nope, same type kits. The beams are what would be difficult to set. More so than wood. And they use a z-channel or light weight c-channel running horizontal between posts for metal to attach.

Depends on how you frame your polebarn, will depend on the level of difficulty of finishing the inside.

I ended up going stick built on a block foundation, but had I gone the post-frame route, My wall girts were NOT gonna be the standard 2x4 on the outside. Rather I was gonna use 2x6 and be flush with both the inside and outside of the 4x6 or 6x6 posts.

Here is how I would have done it Higgins & Sons Buildings - RTF Wall Girt System

Would take a tad longer to put the shell up, but if finishing the inside, it saves on time and material in the long run.

 

[TMGT]

That's a nice setup there but 6" wall overkill and most likely add too much cost for me, the outside is going to be sheathed in osb have matching siding to the house instead of metal paneling.

I've been looking at stick built but appears to be out of the budget.

I've watched large metal framed buildings being constructed, believe it was made by General steel, seem pretty easy to put up.

Newberry, 84 didn't have anything I liked when I looked a few years ago, plus I've had problems with them in the past and decided not to use them anymore.

 

[LD1]

That wall co striction don't really add much to the cos for the benefit it offers.

Since you are sheathing the exterior, were you planning on making the 2x4's flush, or just nailed to the outside like typical?

Cause if just nailed outside, you will need about double the 2x4's if you plan on more than 1.5" insulation.

6" may sound like overkill, but there isn't a whole tone of price difference between 2 x 4 and 2x6, nor is there much price difference between r 13 and r19. If you plan to heat and cool, spending more on insulation is never a waste or never overkill.

Plus you can sheath the inside, since it will be flush, and you won't even see the posts. Neat, clean, efficient.

Price it all both ways. Wall lumber is a small drop in the bucket when you look at things in whole. On a 40*72 building like mine, with close to $30k spent, the difference between r13/2x4 vs r19/2x6 is probably less than a grand. So spending g very little additional is well worth the end benefits

 

[TMGT]

I'll look again but there was a pretty big jump in lumber cost going to 2x6 last time I looked. If it's affordable then I have no problems going heavier. I'm a big fan of insulation, I've done quite a bit of improvements at the house to increase thermal efficiency.

Either way insulation and finishing won't be happening right away anyways.

Still looking at steel trusses if I go wood frame.

 

[LD1]

My Menards prices....
2x4x10=$3.65
2x6x10=$5.49

And just depending on what and where u get insulation, r13 is usually around 25 cents a square ft

R19 is usually around 38 cents.

So between the 10 foot posts, and assuming a 10' high wall, and the horizontal joists on 2' centers, you would need 6 boards and 100sq ft of insulation.

So that's $71 for 10' of 6" wall. And $47 for 4".

But wait, if you build conventional style, with 2x4s outside the posts , you will need to but double the amount of them just to form studs. So that cost jumps right up there.

If you plan ahead you can always do the 2x4 flush to the outside similar to the way I say to do 2x6's. But most don't.

In either case, let's say a 40x60 building. That will have 20 wall sections. So about $1500 vs about $1000. So maybe $500 more in total for 6".

Like I said, it's a drop in the bucket given everything else. Lumber and insulation are cheap considering. The money is in the sheathing/siding, roofing, concrete, overhead doors, trusses, etc

 

[LD1]

I guess what I am saying is there is no right or wrong way, and it's your money. But after its all said and done and your building finished and you have spent 15-20k, don't regret not spending an extra $500 for a cleaner interior (no visible posts) and a stronger better insulated building

 

[TMGT]

I was actually thinking of doing the 2x4 flush, we'll see what's the pricing ends up for 2x6's.

I'm still planning on doing a 40x48x14 with a 10' lean too on one side, looking into scissor trusses as an option also.

 

[LD1]

So you are looking at probably 18 wall sections (between posts) and 14' high.

14' high is gonna take 8 horizontals and 140 sq ft insulation per wall sections. (Figuring rough at 40x50).

Bout $65 per wall section, $1200 for the complete building for 4" walls.

Bout $100 per section, $1800 for building, with 6" walls.

While 50% more sounds like alot, like I said, on a $15k+ building, $600 ain't nothing considering what you gain.

Your probably looking at $2k+ for a standard truss. Metal or scissor....$3k+. A few decient overhead doors...$4k, metal roof....$1500, concrete....$3000 if you finish....

Far bigger things than to sweat over $600.

Are you setting trusses direct to posts....10' spacing? Or are you gonna have to incorporate a stout header to carry trusses between posts?

 

[TMGT]

Have to see how regional pricing compares, things can be a little higher in this area. I'm going to be hiring out to the concrete finishing but will do all the site prep, reinforcement etc. Need to have the concrete finished right and don't trust myself on a pad that size.

Planning on using a stout header with notched post, spacing will depend on what truss I end up going with.

I'm estimating about 8k plus for just the pad. Hopefully 15k or less for the building and the rest for electric and whatever else I can afford.

Going with a single large panel garage door so that should keep the cost down hopefully.

 

[TMGT]

LD1 do you have any pictures of your building?

 

[LD1]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ictures-my-garage-build.html?highlight=Garage

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...uilding-my-bridge-crane.html?highlight=Garage

 

[TMGT]

Very nice, I was thinking about stick built but looks like it would push the budget more then I'd like.

I remembered that I have a lumber mill about a mile from my house so I'll have to check with them, planning on doing concrete piers and brackets so shouldn't have any need for pressure treated.

I like the crane, was planning on doing one myself but it'll be a ways down the road unless I fall into some heavy I beam for super cheap.