Grapple

[12Bravo]

What grapples are you all using on the smaller machines, CK series? I have the 2610 and need a grapple to pick some logs up.

I rented a set of pallet forks and it worked great. Only had one log I couldn't pick up, 20' long 20" diameter hemlock log, tractor said NOPE, not moving it. So I just pushed it out of the way.

Got my sawmill set up and need an easy way to move logs onto the mill.

Thanks

 

[nybirdman]

I use a tooth-bar and a Green's Machine Thumb and it works well.Also saves some money and weight.Used for loading a saw mill last summer and worked great.

 

[12Bravo]

Thanks I will look them up.

 

[12Bravo]

I use a tooth-bar and a Green's Machine Thumb and it works well.Also saves some money and weight.Used for loading a saw mill last summer and worked great.

How does that save weight?

It hooks to your bucket and adds weight to the bucket. With a grapple, it would have less metal than the bucket and top thumb combined. Money, yes it is cheaper than a dedicated grapple, but weight I need to look that up a bit more.

 

[IslandTractor]

Many of us use 48" single lid grapples on CK and DK size tractors. Although not the cheapest, the slickest such grapple is made by Everything Attachments. I think they call it the compact grapple. It weighs less than 300lbs and is very nicely designed and built. Other companies make similar coarser and heavier versions of such a light duty grapple.

I have a 300lb 48" Millonzi grapple that has been clearing land for me over ten Summers first on a CK20 and now on a DK40se. Works great. I'd advise using rear remotes to control the grapple. Much cheaper and easier. Works just as well as diverted valve Etc.

A bucket grapple is also a reasonable solution but isn't as efficient or flexible. Much better than no grapple and about half as efficient as a true grapple. Cheaper for sure but needs the same hydraulic controls b

 

[12Bravo]

Many of us use 48" single lid grapples on CK and DK size tractors. Although not the cheapest, the slickest such grapple is made by Everything Attachments. I think they call it the compact grapple. It weighs less than 300lbs and is very nicely designed and built. Other companies make similar coarser and heavier versions of such a light duty grapple.

I have a 300lb 48" Millonzi grapple that has been clearing land for me over ten Summers first on a CK20 and now on a DK40se. Works great.

I'd advise using rear remotes to control the grapple. Much cheaper and easier. Works just as well as diverted valve Etc.

I'll look them up.

I have an extra remote on the rear of my tractor. If I am not mistaken I can control the tractor grapple with pushing or pulling the valve one way then the other. I might be wrong, it's known to happen from time to time..

 

[kbsd]

I bought the 48" grapple from Titan. It's working well, isn't super heavy weight wise and seems well built and a decent price.

 

[emt676]

This is the grapple we use it works great.

 

[IslandTractor]

I'll look them up. I have an extra remote on the rear of my tractor. If I am not mistaken I can control the tractor grapple with pushing or pulling the valve one way then the other. I might be wrong, it's known to happen from time to time..

You are correct. One set of rear remotes plus about $75 of 3/8" hydraulic hose and quick connect fittings is all you need. That's how my CK20 was set up. Very efficient.

 

[12Bravo]

View attachment 470776

This is the grapple we use it works great.

What kind is it? Brand? Size? Weight?

 

[shank102]

Depending on where your at in northern TN, Wells tractor in greenville has the 48" W.R. Long Loader Open Bottom Grapple 2 for Compact Tractors in stock that you can check out. I think it weighs about 350lb.

 

[12Bravo]

Depending on where your at in northern TN, Wells tractor in greenville has the 48" W.R. Long Loader Open Bottom Grapple 2 for Compact Tractors in stock that you can check out. I think it weighs about 350lb.

Wells is just down the road about 15 miles from me. I stopped in there when I was shopping for a tractor, wasn't to good of an experience. They didn't seem to interested in dealing with a small tractor purchase like mine.

I will stop in there and see what they have once I get to town next week. 350Lbs would work, not to heavy. The E.A. grapple looked good at only 275lbs, would mean a bigger log for milling without fighting the limits of my FEL.

 

[shank102]

Yeah I heard things went to crap when Wells got deployed. Hes back now so things should be getting better down there.

 

[IslandTractor]

Depending on where your at in northern TN, Wells tractor in greenville has the 48" W.R. Long Loader Open Bottom Grapple 2 for Compact Tractors in stock that you can check out. I think it weighs about 350lb.

WR Long is one of the granddaddy grapple companies for CUTs. Very high quality but expensive as they don't sell direct so dealer markup cuts into value. They also don't innovate the way EA does.

Bottom line is that virtually any 48" single lid grapple of decent quality is going to meet the grappling needs of 95+% of CUT owners. Virtually nobody who buys one ends up "upgrading" and almost all are delighted with performance and longevity. Spend more for heavier, wider or fancier metal grapple if you must but the basic 48 does the job just fine.

 

[k0ua]

Here is my 50 inch EA single lid. It weighs about 275 lbs. Works for me. You can see how I control the grapple lid with the remote lever on my tractor is conveniently located just forward of the loader joystick. Also don't forget if you do run your grapple from a rear remote you will need to have quick disconnects in the middle of your tractor where the loader quick connects are so that you can take your loader off easily without taking off the tye-wraps on your loader arms of your new run of hydraulic hoses.

 

[IslandTractor]

Here is my 50 inch EA single lid. It weighs about 275 lbs. Works for me. You can see how I control the grapple lid with the remote lever on my tractor is conveniently located just forward of the loader joystick. Also don't forget if you do run your grapple from a rear remote you will need to have quick disconnects in the middle of your tractor where the loader quick connects are so that you can take your loader off easily without taking off the tye-wraps on your loader arms of your new run of hydraulic hoses.

I agree with most everything James says except for the need to have a set of quick connectors in the middle of the tractor. That is exactly what I had on my CK20. In three years I used them precisely zero times. Most of us don't remove the FEL much at all. So long as you secure the hoses with zip ties under the tractor, it takes only two minutes to release them and perhaps five more to replace them if you ever do remove the FEL. It almost doubles the hose cost to put the split system in and I just found it unnecessary.

 

[k0ua]

I agree with most everything James says except for the need to have a set of quick connectors in the middle of the tractor. That is exactly what I had on my CK20. In three years I used them precisely zero times. Most of us don't remove the FEL much at all. So long as you secure the hoses with zip ties under the tractor, it takes only two minutes to release them and perhaps five more to replace them if you ever do remove the FEL. It almost doubles the hose cost to put the split system in and I just found it unnecessary.

I will admit I have only taken the loader off a couple of times since putting in the quick connects on the middle, but It still gives you the option. I hate to cut tye-wraps and reroute hoses. And mainly I mention it because I would not want some poor fella to go "dope! (channelling Homer Simpson)" Because the thought of removing the loader did not occur to him.

So of course, do what suits you best. And if that is a simple diverter up on the loader frame, and using the curl/dump function of your loader joystick instead of a rear remote which you may not have, well that is fine too.

Or go full out and set up the 3rd function. It is all whatever how you want to roll.

 

[12Bravo]

I will admit I have only taken the loader off a couple of times since putting in the quick connects on the middle, but It still gives you the option. I hate to cut tye-wraps and reroute hoses. And mainly I mention it because I would not want some poor fella to go "dope! (channelling Homer Simpson)" Because the thought of removing the loader did not occur to him.

So of course, do what suits you best. And if that is a simple diverter up on the loader frame, and using the curl/dump function of your loader joystick instead of a rear remote which you may not have, well that is fine too.

Or go full out and set up the 3rd function. It is all whatever how you want to roll.

I already have an extra rear remote, so there is no plan to add cost to this. Not sure if I will make a connection in the middle or not, most likely no at the beginning, but later on when funds are available I will.

 

[k0ua]

I already have an extra rear remote, so there is no plan to add cost to this. Not sure if I will make a connection in the middle or not, most likely no at the beginning, but later on when funds are available I will.

Here are a couple of places to look for hoses.. Use a garden hose or piece of 1/2 inch rope to get your lengths. I got mine from surplus center

Made-To-Order Hydraulic Hose Assemblies

Surplus Center

 

[IslandTractor]

I already have an extra rear remote, so there is no plan to add cost to this. Not sure if I will make a connection in the middle or not, most likely no at the beginning, but later on when funds are available I will.

Use a garden hose to measure the length of hydraulic hose you need to go from rear remote under operator station up FEL post and down to torque tube. Add a foot or so and make gentle turns. Order 3/8" hoses (more flexible and plenty of flow for grapple) and get 90 degree adapters for the rear so you don't need a lot of vulnerable hose looping back. 1/2" quick connects are kinda standard so you'll need step up adapters. You'll need 1/2" for the rear with step up too. It sounds complicated but is actually pretty easy. A local hydraulic shop can make it up in half an hour while you wait but if you order all parts from Surplus Supply you'll save about 50%. .