I have a MAHINDRA 4500

[DJP]

MY power steering box get low on fluid after about 20 minutes of cutting. I can refill the power fluid box and everything is good, front wheel turn perfectly, than 20 minutes later it become hard to turn and I have to turn the steering wheel around and around to just turn the tires a little. The power fluid box is out again. I see a little fluid drop on the motor below the power steering fluid box. What could be below the power steering box that may be making the fluid box loose fluid. I see one line comes down and go to the cup or box at the bottom of the steering Wheel pole. Another bigger line comes down and connect to side of the motor. Do this tractor have a power steering pump that may be leaking, if where is it? And it not heavy leaking while the tractor sitting still, maybe as I am driving or turning the tractor. Mahindra 45, Two wheel drive.

 

[Navasot]

Put it on a slab to locate the leak.. im betting its leaking at the power steering cylinder itself

 

[Navasot]

the other spot would be the HSU that is under the steering wheel shaft.

 

[Jabonee]

MY power steering box get low on fluid after about 20 minutes of cutting. I can refill the power fluid box and everything is good, front wheel turn perfectly, than 20 minutes later it become hard to turn and I have to turn the steering wheel around and around to just turn the tires a little. The power fluid box is out again. I see a little fluid drop on the motor below the power steering fluid box. What could be below the power steering box that may be making the fluid box loose fluid. I see one line comes down and go to the cup or box at the bottom of the steering Wheel pole. Another bigger line comes down and connect to side of the motor. Do this tractor have a power steering pump that may be leaking, if where is it? And it not heavy leaking while the tractor sitting still, maybe as I am driving or turning the tractor. Mahindra 45, Two wheel drive.

If you have no visible leakage you may have a bad pump seal. Pumps are located lower,right of engine. Check your engine oil and hyd oil to see if its over full. I suspect if you have a bad steering pump seal it will leak into your hyd work pump. :thumbsup:

 

[mcfarmall]

If you have no visible leakage you may have a bad pump seal. Pumps are located lower,right of engine. Check your engine oil and hyd oil to see if its over full. I suspect if you have a bad steering pump seal it will leak into your hyd work pump. :thumbsup:

Had this happen on the old Farmall C. Obviously a different tractor but the hydraulic pump is engine driven and the drive gears are lubricated by the engine oil system. Any shaft leakage goes right into the crankcase pan. Put on a new seal and life is good.

 

[kneedeep]

My 5500 leaks as well, not too bad. Just enough to be aggravating. It is the Seal in the steering box at the bottom of the column. I have been using ATF in it and it has really slowed down. Plan on taking it out this winter and rebuilding.

 

[DJP]

YOU are right NAVASOT: after rechecking all other options it appear it is at the left side of the power steering cylinder. My tractor is at this time jacked up off the front two wheels and it is slowly dripping power steering fluid. As I was driving and turning it, it was leaking faster. I was testing before, but I leaving off the power steering fluid box top bolt/screw cap, AND THE PRESSURE FROM TURNING THE WHEEL MAY HAVE MADE THE POWER STEERING FLUID SPILL OUT OVER THE TOP OF THE FLUID BOX AND LOOKING LIKE I had a leak at he back/bottom of the fluid box. I try to do most the work on my own tractor. So far I have replaced the fuel tank, and to do this on this model you have to remove the tractor steering wheel, I done this two years ago. Where can I find any steps on how to replace my seals in my power steering cylinder. What I see is a long rod from the tire tie rod to the cylinder. This rod has from tie rod to a medal sleave with three bolts, a large center bolt that appear to connect the first iron bar to the iron bar that goes in side of the cylinder. And the cylinder has 5/6 allen ranch bolts that hole the iron bar in the cylinder and the cylinder seals. Also my search show that there are two types of power steering cylinders. Which brand came with this model tractor(Mahindra 4500,2004 2WD). Mainly what do I take loose to replace the cylinder seals, the toe rod end, the three bolts, or the large center bolt between the iron bars that ide is in the cylinder and the other id connected to the wheel tie rod????

 

[Navasot]

The cylinder has a cap on the end.. you have to take off then slam it off with the piston.. then its a fun time of finding all the seals and putting them back in... you will need a rebuild kit as well.. I like working on my machines also but I take the cylinder off and take it to a local hyd. shop... I hate rebuilding them. I would highly recommend taking it to a shop if you have one around.

 

[Navasot]

I believe the 4500 had two different in that there was a short and a long cylinder and the long one had a piston on both sides were the other was fixed and bolted to the side of the axle

 

[BobG_in_VA]

This may not matter, but is it 2 or 4 wheel drive....bobg in Va who has a 6000 4WD and it only has one cyl in the front.

 

[Navasot]

Hes got a 2wd I believe the 4wd had the small cyl. on the left side of the axle.. now that one is a pain to get out

 

[DJP]

Thanks to all for any info. BUT which nut or bolts do I take off to remove the cylinder from the tractor, starting from the power steering ball joint to the iron rod that goes inside the cylinder . I know the two bolts on each side of the cylinder mounted to the tractor frame. But where on the two iron rods from ball joint to cylinder?????

 

[DJP]

Yes my Mahindra do have appear to be a short power steering cylinder. MY internet search show the model (2580) and that model looks like the one mounted on my tractor. My question is what bolt do you undo to remove the cylinder off the tractor. The two bolts on each side at bottom of the cylinder mounted to the tractor must be removed. But where on the power steering rod, do you undo to disconnect the cylinder from the power steering ball joint to the cylinder piston??? Is it the large bolt on the BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY CYLINDER END?????????

 

[Navasot]

You take the castle nut off from the joint and will need separators made for splitting those from steering knuckles... looks like a punch with a U on the end of it..

Or get a new joint and cut it off with a torch

 

[DJP]

Re: OK Thanks to all for any advice.

After all my research, I have the Mahindra 4500 2WD 2004 >>>RAM PS CYLINDER (2580). The problem I am having is getting the cylinder off the tractor to take to the shop or try to replace the seal kits myself. First what is the size of the bolts that hold the cylinder onto the tractor wheel axle. The two bolts the are on each bottom lower side of the cylinder. A 11/16 socket is too small , a 13/16 socket is too big. Second it looks like I should be able to remove the cylinder without taking off the whole TIE ROD ASSEMBLY. This is the issue, left to right, the ball joint assembly knuckle arm end, which connect to ball joint assembly cylinder end, the ball joint assembly end has a thread bolt on the end that appear to connect to the iron rod(piston) coming out of the cylinder. Both the ball joint assembly cylinder end and the iron rod(piston)coming out of the cylinder have a round ball joint on the other end that turns when I turn the large bolt on the ball joint assembly cylinder end. What I think I am seeing is the iron rod(piston) connected to the Ball joint assembly cylinder end, where the large bolt is, there looks like a indent on the end of the iron rod that you can use a range to hole the piston from turning and use another range to unscrew the large bolt on the ball joint assembly cylinder end. And this will disconnect the Tie rod assembly from the power steering cylinder. This range that can be used to hole the piston must be thin enough to get between the large nut/bolt on the ball joint assembly end and the iron rod (piston). What size of this range????

 

[Navasot]

If your talkin about the brakets that come off the axle at each end of the cylinder a 19 6lugged socket will work. I got a pic of an end taken off ill try to download

 

[Navasot]

Re: OK Thanks to all for any advice.

Quite hard to load pics on here.. This the style SC you have?

 

[Navasot]

To help with splitting the ball joint away from the steering knuckle soaking it for a few days in blaster or something similar will help... heat will be the last option but a good bud tip will get the job done

 

[DJP]

Thanks NAVASOT for the quick reply and the great picture. That is the exact tie rod steering assembly I have. IF you calling the castle nut the nut on the end on top of the tie rod end ball joint with the lock pin. I have already removed that nut, but have not knocked out the tie rod ball joint end. The way I seeing it, even after I did that I will still need to separate the middle piece (ball joint assembly cylinder end, the middle piece with the rubber boot) from the iron rod (piston) coming out of the power steering cylinder. What I am hoping from your picture the there is a cut on the end of the piston connected to the ball joint cylinder end(the middle piece covered by the rubber boot) the cut id directly behind the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder end. If you had a thin range that will hole the piston rod, while you use another range to turn the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder end, the two will come apart. and you will not need to undue the castle nut and tie rod end ball joint. As of now when I turn the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder( the middle piece with the rubber cover) both the ball joint and the iron rod (piston) turn at the same time. If this is so what size of thin range of tool is needed to whole the piston, while unscrewing the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder. Question: do that bolt/nut screw on to the piston or screw in to the piston???????

 

[Navasot]

What are you needing to split the the joints from the cylinder for? If I was taking it to the shop id just unbolt the mounting brackets from the axle, then split the joints and take it all. But if you need to its just simply backing out the grey linkage that screws into the cylinder... some can be tricky needing a skinny wrench to fit both wrench spots werer they meet... last one I did I took an 1 1/8 wrench and grinded the sides down making it about half its normal width