Trailer springs to weak.

[Deere Dude]

I have a 6x10 single axle homemade trailer I want to haul medium diameter oak logs with. The wood is located 6-7 miles from home on back country roads.

The axle is rated for 6,000# but the springs are rated for 3500#. A few years ago I changed out the heavy springs so the trailer would ride better and it does. Now I want to load it up with with as much as I can carry which is probably more than 3500#.

Is there a way to possibly put blocks between the axle and bed to take the springs out of the equation so I can load it down more. I just don't want to break springs.

It is not that much distance and could possibly load it lighter, but that just isn't the way I seem to do things.

 

[farm boy00]

I would just build something that would hold a 4x4 block or similar size in between the leaf spring's and trailer. So when you load it to a certain point it sets onnthe 4x4 block. That way it's simple, easy to do, and you don't have to alter your trailer.

Know your feeling. Had a friend with big 14x14 I think Cedar blocks and he was moving and told us to get them. Came with a lil 4x8 ft trailer, and a cheap junker ranger that we were driving and squatted the trailer with so much that we had to unscrew the fenders and lift them and the truck rear was almost on the ground. Probably almost 5,000lb of wood in one trip

 

[BarnieTrk]

Deer Dude,

My two cents: I don't know why you would even take the chance on tearing up good equipment like that. It is ONLY a 6-7 mile trip.... simply load smaller loads that the trailer can handle, so you have to make multiple trips,,,big deal - don't mis-use your equipment.

Just because the axle is rated for 6,000 lbs, doesn't mean you can load the trailer willy-nilly on it without issues. If you pile even 5,000 lbs in the center of the trailer, you will likely put a bow (bend) your axle. Make sure you weight is equalized across the trailer bed.

If you do decide to go the 'install some blocks' to eliminate the springs, make sure they are VERY secured under the trailer. Without any suspension, one or more blocks will likely be caused to come out from under the trailer and quickly bottom out (let alone the block is shooting out from under the trailer, into traffic).

Good Luck and let us know what you decide to do and how it worked out for ya!

BarnieTrk

 

[Leejohn]

Just add overload springs.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have a 6x10 single axle homemade trailer I want to haul medium diameter oak logs with. The wood is located 6-7 miles from home on back country roads.

The axle is rated for 6,000# but the springs are rated for 3500#. A few years ago I changed out the heavy springs so the trailer would ride better and it does. Now I want to load it up with with as much as I can carry which is probably more than 3500#.

Is there a way to possibly put blocks between the axle and bed to take the springs out of the equation so I can load it down more. I just don't want to break springs.

It is not that much distance and could possibly load it lighter, but that just isn't the way I seem to do things.

I wouldn't. You will bend the spindles the 1st bump you hit.

Chris

 

[BarnieTrk]

I wouldn't. You will bend the spindles the 1st bump you hit. Chris

Or, blow the hub casting right off! The outer portion of the casting, the outer bearing and the wheel all went sailing off! It happened when I had a trailer overloaded and, on smooth pavement, came to the bottom of a dip and the weight on the trailer was too much.......at 55mph.

BarnieTrk

 

[Deere Dude]

I wouldn't. You will bend the spindles the 1st bump you hit.

Chris

I would think when loaded it would be just like a trailer with no springs. Two years ago I picked up two trees with the 3500# springs and the springs were -pretty straight when loaded. I am just trying to keep that from happening and busting a spring.

There is a limit on how high I can load the trailer anyway so I suppose I will just temper the loads a bit.