Landpride Grading Scraper review GS2584

[xring100]

About 3 weeks ago I had my local dealer deliver the GS2584 when they dropped off my mower.
Ive read good things from everyone whos used them. I wasSuprised land pride doesnt set the depth to the recommended 0.25" depth instead one side was fully down 1.5" and the other cocked at 1.25" and 0.75". They could easily use some shims or fixture to set the depth. It was built and sprayed this way from the factory not done at dealer setup. This really isnt a big deal but wasted 15 minutes of my time.

It is really simple to use and adjust with hydraulic top link. Even hookup to cat 2 quick hitch is a breeze. If found it Way easier to get a nice finish and far less fuss than my box scrapper although the manual scarfiers are a pain.

Which brings me to my only complaint what ever brand Land pride decided to save a few pennies on suck. I broke 2 off in around 900ft off road. Ive read similar complaints about the teeth used on their hydraulic box scrappers. I was nowhere near as hard on this as my Gannon 88HSD which weighs nearly twice as much and has been used on several miles with scrarfiers down.

I ordered the replacement H&L teeth used on the gannon from Messicks and replaced the two brooken ones tonight


Next time i may try setting it up for a crown.

 

[TSO]

I have the same scraper, nice unit. I broke one of the tooth tips off as well.

Nice for grading, but crowning... Not so much. Use that with a angled blade and it's a great combo.

Congrats on the new piece!

 

[oosik]

That's the exact same GS I have. Haven't broken anything on it yet but for heavy scarifier work, so far, I use the scarifiers on my Bush Hog RO720. With the hydraulic top link it makes easy work on my mile long driveway.

Strange, mine came with the depth set at 1" down all the way around.

 

[Tomtint]

I have a Befco one, they look to be the same design. My rippers wore very quick and I have lost a couple of the tips as well. The skids on the bottom / sides , also wear very quick and if you don't watch them, you could start wearing out the bottom of the grader itself. Other than that the thing is awesome.

 

[xring100]

Thanks TSO,
Have your tried using it to crown the road like the manual describes? I'm just wondering if its even worth the effort to set it up. I was thinking you essentially have 2 angled blades although its probably only 15 degrees and their is not really a moldboard to bring a huge volume to the center. it says set the left side depth to zero and only cut on the right side. I agree i'd love something like a Land Pride RBT 45 series or RB850 and may end of with one eventually

I have the same scraper, nice unit. I broke one of the tooth tips off as well.

Nice for grading, but crowning... Not so much. Use that with a angled blade and it's a great combo.

Congrats on the new piece!

 

[xring100]

That's the exact same GS I have. Haven't broken anything on it yet but for heavy scarifier work, so far, I use the scarifiers on my Bush Hog RO720. With the hydraulic top link it makes easy work on my mile long driveway. I need to make a quick hitch adapter for my Gannon its is definitely superior that type of work but. its a pain too take of the quick hitch and then hook up to the box scrapper.

Strange, mine came with the depth set at 1" down all the way around.

I have a Befco one, they look to be the same design. My rippers wore very quick and I have lost a couple of the tips as well. The skids on the bottom / sides , also wear very quick and if you don't watch them, you could start wearing out the bottom of the grader itself. Other than that the thing is awesome.

I think its a fine line in the steel processing of making it to hard (brittle) to resist wear or to soft to avoid breaking. H&L seems to be the leader in the tooth industry.
I hope they used a good grade high carbon steel as they claim on the wear edges which should extend the life i'll make sure to keep an eye on them thanks

 

[TSO]

Thanks TSO,
Have your tried using it to crown the road like the manual describes? I'm just wondering if its even worth the effort to set it up. I was thinking you essentially have 2 angled blades although its probably only 15 degrees and their is not really a moldboard to bring a huge volume to the center. it says set the left side depth to zero and only cut on the right side. I agree i'd love something like a Land Pride RBT 45 series or RB850 and may end of with one eventually

I've messed around with it a bit. Mine also came 1" down all the way around. Maybe if one worked long enough, you could slowly "shuffle" enough material to achieve a crown, but I find that it's much more practical to swap in the back blade once the material is loose.... move it for a crown, then swap back to the GS.

 

[milkie62]

What do these things run in price.Just thinking since I have a 500' gravel drive.

 

[TSO]

I picked up mine for around $1900

 

[oosik]

I bought mine in 2013 from the Kubota dealer for $1850 plus $160 local tax.

 

[xring100]

Mine was $1975 Plus tax from the dealer

 

[JRobyn]

I just ordered the smaller GS1572 (43hp Kubota L4330) - $1500. My bad. I didn't go to "page 2" on the Landpride website to see that they had the heavier GS25 series. My dealer says he thinks the GS15 will do great for me for gravel road maintenance, but I don't think they have anywhere near as much experience as the collective wisdom on TBN.

 

[oosik]

While the Land Pride GS25 series will have a heavier framework - the GS15 should be more than adequate for gravel driveway maintenance. If you feel added weight is necessary - sacks of sand placed on the upper frame members would resolve this.

 

[aeblank]

How fast do you guys go? I have the 72" version of the LandPride. I think I have the blades set 3/4" recessed, and I'm in pretty much sand (Michigan). Anyway, I get HUGE build-up of material....full to the top.

I end up lengthening the top link to make it take less bite to get the dirt to flow over the second blade. I'll probably adjust the blade up a bit more before I use it again. Any other suggestions?

 

[oosik]

My blades are set 1" below the side boards/skid shoes. By the term "recessed" I would guess you also mean below the side boards. My driveway is a mix of sand, gravel, silt, & boulders. I guess I travel along at around 3-4 mph. Your buildup may not be due to the blade setting - it could be that the sand is too damp and won't flow over the blades. Dry sand should not build up much on either blade.

 

[aeblank]

By recessed, I meant above the shoes. So mine are set 1-3/4" less aggressive than yours.
I've done wet and dry conditions, because I had that thought too.
I'm not going 4mph though, probably more like 2 or 3. That's not especially different though. I basically go till it starts chattering, then slow down (chatter is normally on the harder seasonal road, and not so much my driveway--but I have the same buildup problems on both).
I just haven't had the time to mess with / adjust / figure it out (thus asking here).

 

[murphy1244]

By recessed, I meant above the shoes. So mine are set 1-3/4" less aggressive than yours.
I've done wet and dry conditions, because I had that thought too.
I'm not going 4mph though, probably more like 2 or 3. That's not especially different though. I basically go till it starts chattering, then slow down (chatter is normally on the harder seasonal road, and not so much my driveway--but I have the same buildup problems on both).
I just haven't had the time to mess with / adjust / figure it out (thus asking here).

I set mine with paint sticks. 2 stacked up per corner.

 

[aeblank]

I set mine with paint sticks. 2 stacked up per corner.

I used plywood / 1x lumber that I had laying around, too.
I don't have 8 paint sticks. =)

 

[murphy1244]

I used plywood / 1x lumber that I had laying around, too.
I don't have 8 paint sticks. =)

Home Depot has a plenty.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

By recessed, I meant above the shoes. So mine are set 1-3/4" less aggressive than yours.
I've done wet and dry conditions, because I had that thought too.
I'm not going 4mph though, probably more like 2 or 3. That's not especially different though. I basically go till it starts chattering, then slow down (chatter is normally on the harder seasonal road, and not so much my driveway--but I have the same buildup problems on both).
I just haven't had the time to mess with / adjust / figure it out (thus asking here).

On an already existing drive that is not in bad shape, just getting maintained, DO NOT simply put the 3pt control lever all the way forward. Set the 3pt so that the implement is held at ground level. That way the cutting edges only cut just below the runners. Your material build up will not be anywhere as bad.

Some people think that this is bad because you can then get the washboard effect sort of stretched out though. That is why I said for maintenance purposes. I have never had any problems grading in this fashion and it really helps with the material build up situation.

Been there , done that.

Of course, you may need to set your cutting edges below your runners for this to work.

Another thing that really helps when using a LPGS is a hydraulic top link. Makes it a breeze to adjust just how much cut you get for each of your cutting edges. The chattering that you are getting should be able to be eliminated.

Good luck.