Another plow setup question

[idaho2]

Mearntain,

Looks like you have one option on this plow and that is to loosen the U bolts and slide the Draw Bar to the right 2". This should get the plow to follow the "pull line" and make it easier TO PLOW.

By the way the Video about the coultours being added. Those have a set procedure that was completely passed. Separate issue there.


Idaho2.

 

[Steave]

It looks like your tractor might need stabilizer bars for the 3pt hitch. This would hold your plow from moving to the left once you started plowing.

 

[Big Barn]

It looks like your tractor might need stabilizer bars for the 3pt hitch. This would hold your plow from moving to the left once you started plowing.

While this SOUNDS logical, stabilizers should never be used for plowing.

Terry

 

[ovrszd]

Yep, even with telescoping stabilizers they should be pinned in tbe "slot" position.

 

[DJ54]

Hopefully this will show what you wanted to see DJ54. According to the picture Idaho2 posted, it seems as if my spacing is good.

View attachment 461583

It is what I thought. You can get 2+" of side adjustment, by putting the loops the bolts holding the rim to the center dish, to the inside of the dish. Doing this will set the center line of the tractor and plow, that 2+" closer to the furrow wall.

You need to think of it in terms of setting the tractor to the plow, not so much the plow to the tractor. Once that rear wheel is set in there, THEN you can micro adjust with the cross beam, what ever it takes to clean cut that first furrow bottom.

If aligned right, top links should be centered with each other, and the back end tip of the first bottom share, should be at least inline, with the inside face of the right rear tire, sighting across the inside face. A bit more won't hurt. This will allow the plow to cut the furrow bottom clear off, and not having to ride the furrow wall too hard with the side of the tire.

Shouldn't be too hard to break the bolts loose holding the rims on. Looks like either you, or someone had them off to paint the wheels, according to the scratched paint on the rim,

 

[Mearntain]

Mearntain,

Looks like you have one option on this plow and that is to loosen the U bolts and slide the Draw Bar to the right 2". This should get the plow to follow the "pull line" and make it easier TO PLOW.

By the way the Video about the coultours being added. Those have a set procedure that was completely passed. Separate issue there.


Idaho2.

I'm gonna give that a shot and see what happens, hopefully in a couple days it'll dry out enough to test her. The only reason I posted that video was to show you the bar I was taking about running to the mast. Later after posting that, I completely forgot how I already had posted pictures earlier in the post and could've just pointed to that. Thanks again for all the help.

Just for future reference if I ever get a new tractor/plow combo down the road. Are those 2 measurements you gave me earlier always going to be the same?

 

[Mearntain]

It is what I thought. You can get 2+" of side adjustment, by putting the loops the bolts holding the rim to the center dish, to the inside of the dish. Doing this will set the center line of the tractor and plow, that 2+" closer to the furrow wall.

You need to think of it in terms of setting the tractor to the plow, not so much the plow to the tractor. Once that rear wheel is set in there, THEN you can micro adjust with the cross beam, what ever it takes to clean cut that first furrow bottom.

If aligned right, top links should be centered with each other, and the back end tip of the first bottom share, should be at least inline, with the inside face of the right rear tire, sighting across the inside face. A bit more won't hurt. This will allow the plow to cut the furrow bottom clear off, and not having to ride the furrow wall too hard with the side of the tire.

Shouldn't be too hard to break the bolts loose holding the rims on. Looks like either you, or someone had them off to paint the wheels, according to the scratched paint on the rim,

I've never had the wheels off since I've had the tractor, that would've been the previous owner. Do you think I really need to bring the wheel in further with the inside wall of the tire already being just 21 inches from the center line?

 

[DJ54]

Just my personal opinion, but I'd say yes. Unless you have some steep hillsides you go across, you'll hardly notice it. I have my 2000 set in like that, specifically for the 2 bottoms I've pulled with it in the past.

I'm using a different tractor, and a pretty unique plow to plow the garden with now, and don't use it for that now, but won't be setting the tire back out. No need to do that here.

That's 2" you'll gain not having to move the plow on the cross beam, and possibly easier to center the plow on the tractor for a more equal inline draft on the tractor.

Again, once that wheel is moved in, you can get your final adjustment with the cross beam.

 

[rbtjr]

Yep, even with telescoping stabilizers they should be pinned in tbe "slot" position.

Richard, I want to make sure I understand your comment above and the post prior to yours. I have telescoping stabilizers on my L3800 that I bought from Mark Hodge. Am I correct that when plowing with either a two-bottom plow or a one-bottom plow the stabilizers should not be used--i.e., I need to remove the pin that are inserted to keep the stabilizers at a particular length and in turn keep the lift arms at a particular width? I don't understand what you mean by the "slot position". Thanks.

 

[ovrszd]

Richard, I want to make sure I understand your comment above and the post prior to yours. I have telescoping stabilizers on my L3800 that I bought from Mark Hodge. Am I correct that when plowing with either a two-bottom plow or a one-bottom plow the stabilizers should not be used--i.e., I need to remove the pin that are inserted to keep the stabilizers at a particular length and in turn keep the lift arms at a particular width? I don't understand what you mean by the "slot position". Thanks.

If removing the pins, I'd want to manually swing the plow side to side and make sure it can't come in contact with the tractor tires.

Most telescoping links have a slotted position to put the pin so a limited swing is allowed. This is a horrible picture, but best I have. If you look closely you can see the pin holding the stabilizer at a certain length. Just behind or to the right of the pin you can see a slotted hole in the exterior sleeve?? That's where you want the pin if using a plow. This allows the 3pt to swing some but restricts it from swinging the attachment into the tractor tires. Maybe someone else has a better picture to post??

 

[idaho2]

rbtj,

Attached photo shows my stabilizer bars with my 3x16's plow. In my opinion, each implement requires it's own three point hook up "settings". IE; top link distance for plows, back blades, box blades and so forth. The lower arms on some tractors have adjustments for each lower arm or just one. On my plow hook up as you can see on the photo the stabilizer bars are pinned with about 1" play each. It equals at the end of the 3rd beam about 3" of lateral movement. Without a stabilizer bar on some tractors (because of the hook up width of the implement) a tire/implement connection will occur. Seen this happen and what it does to a tire. Fitfy years ago on our 2n we had a straight bar stabilizers put on for the plow and also for the multi-holed draw bar. But the 3020 JD had none as we used tandem hook ups on that tractor.

idaho2

 

[idaho2]

While I was pecking my response, OVRSD, did a similar reply. Like minds on this subject.

idaho2

 

[ovrszd]

While I was pecking my response, OVRSD, did a similar reply. Like minds on this subject.

idaho2

Oh I don't put myself at your level at all in regards to this subject. Your attention to detail and precision far exceeds mine.

 

[rbtjr]

Thanks to both for the responses. I understand. I have the same slot in my stabilizers, and of course it makes sense to provide some flex from side to side without allowing contact with the wheels. Thanks again. I am in the market for a plow and will no doubt come back to this thread when I buy one. By the way, that is a question for me: My owner's manual for the L3800 lists maximum implement sizes. It says a 12" two bottom plow or less. I called the Everything folks and they recommended a 16" one bottom plow for the L3800. I have R4 tires and the rear wheels are loaded with about 750 lbs total, plus I have 4WD and a FEL. Do you guys agree with the one bottom 16" recommendation or could the L3800 pull a larger plow? My application is two wildlife food plots each about 1/2 acre that were previously planted in pines. Not much clay, no sand, a little red dirt and some loam. Thanks again.

 

[Mearntain]

Just my personal opinion, but I'd say yes. Unless you have some steep hillsides you go across, you'll hardly notice it. I have my 2000 set in like that, specifically for the 2 bottoms I've pulled with it in the past.

I'm using a different tractor, and a pretty unique plow to plow the garden with now, and don't use it for that now, but won't be setting the tire back out. No need to do that here.

That's 2" you'll gain not having to move the plow on the cross beam, and possibly easier to center the plow on the tractor for a more equal inline draft on the tractor.

Again, once that wheel is moved in, you can get your final adjustment with the cross beam.

Sounds good. I think I'm gonna try sliding the cross beam first and see how that helps. Main reason I say that is that it's probably gonna be a PITA to move the tires in with the equipment and tools I currently have available to me. If I end up needing to do it, I guess I won't have any choice but to go at it; when there's a will, there's a way.

 

[ovrszd]

Sounds good. I think I'm gonna try sliding the cross beam first and see how that helps. Main reason I say that is that it's probably gonna be a PITA to move the tires in with the equipment and tools I currently have available to me. If I end up needing to do it, I guess I won't have any choice but to go at it; when there's a will, there's a way.

I think your plow adjustments will give you the results you want. Hopefully!!!

 

[Mearntain]

Update:

The ground seemed "dry enough" tonight so I gave it another shot after making the adjustment to the cross beam. I've got dirt turning over great, mostly filling in the furrow from the last pass made by the rear. The rear is completely filling the furrow made by the front plow and seems to be cutting the right depth along with a mostly flat bottom. The one issue I'm still having is the plow wanting to pull to the left still.

The two pictures I'm posting are showing the issues. The picture of the field is not only showing how it's turning the ground, but more so showing how it wants to pull to the left. Look at the slight curve going to the left at the beginning and then you can see it "straightens out" and continues straight. The second picture shows how the top link sits in when pulling in the straight section, angled to the left side of the tractor.

My measurement from the center of the top link to the inside of tire is about 21 inches. Center of top link on the plow to the outside edge of the beam where the pin attaches is 12 inches. I was noticing that I could possibly unattach the beam going to the mast and be able to slide the mast about 1/2 inch further towards the center of the plow , and then have to bolt that beam to the outside of the mast (the beam that runs from mast to rear of plow). Not sure if that half inch may be worth trying??

Click the links for pics.

Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

[idaho2]

Meartain,

Photos help a lot. Looking at the setup I see two things that may help. Can you move the plow to the right "4" looking from the rear of the plow and still maintain the 12" on the draw bar to center of the mast?. Once you have that done, use the check chain to minimize the excess play. One photo shows the LEFT check chain tight and the right one loose. Are you able to equalize them after repositioning of the plow. This plow needs check chains to help get the plow to the "pull line".


idaho2

 

[Mearntain]

When I set the plow down to the ground, it sets down in the perfect place with the share hanging above the last furrow by about an inch or 2. So I should adjust the chain to be maxed out at this location?

It seems my issue is coming from the mast location as its pulling to the left until the chains max out, which also happens to be the same spot where the the beams are perfectly straight in line with the tractor. I was thinking maybe modifying the plow some by getting some spacers and a longer bolt to hold that beam to the mast, allowing me to slide the mast over a couple inches which I feel would help the plow track straight easier without having to pull to the left so much to get straight. Currently with the mast location, the beams are slightly angled in relation to the tractor when the plow is sitting in the proper location.

 

[idaho2]

If you check the chains at that location, you may not get the full 14" cut of your plow share? That would then leave a lesser amount of soil turned over into the furrow. Unless the pull to the left is sufficient to get the full 14". Try it a few feet and see what it does, you can always move the chain checking to another location.. If this works, great. If not your modification idea is next.

idaho2