Another plow setup question

[Mearntain]

As some of you may remember from a somewhat recent post of mine, I got screwed by this guy and was sold a plow that was sprung and it was impossible to get it set up properly. I ended up running into a steal of a deal on a 14" double bottom Leinbach plow this week and it's still pretty much in like new condition (has some original paint on the moldboards still).

I tried setting it up tonight but had less than an hour before dark so didn't have much time to mess with it. It supposed to rain around noon tomorrow, so I won't have much time to try to plow so I just wanted to try and clarify a couple things first to save as much time as possible. When trying to run it tonight, I was leaving a few inches of uncut ground between furrows.

Starting from square 1, I'm gonna drive the tractor up on blocks about 7 inches high on concrete.

Then I'm going to adjust top link and lift arms to have the plow sitting completely flat on the ground, correct? No slight angle with the points facing down is needed, right?

Now, for adjusting where the first plow cuts is what's confusing me some. If I'm leaving a few inches of uncut ground, I should need to slide the plows to the left on the cross shaft? If I'm thinking correct, that should cause the plows to move further to the left initially, but will in turn move the plows further to the right as the plow beams will want to track straight?

Last question is in regards to the functions of moving the right sides lift arm bolt. There are 3 holes in a horizontal direction from front to rear, all are located at the same height. Currently I'm in the middle hole. Is this adjustment for setting the cutting width of the plows? Front hole cuts a thinner furrow and back hole wider? Does this effect both plows cut or just the front?

 

[idaho2]

Mearntain,

1. Left side of tractor both wheels up on your 7" blocks.
2. Lt lift arm is totally collapsed. Stays here while plowing.
3. Top Link to level plow front to back. Measure length from center pin (tractor end) to center center pin (plow). Write it down for future setups.
4. Rt. lift arm to level plow right to left. Measure this lift arm and write it down. This is the length of the Rt. lower link used AFTER you have made your first run
of plowing.
5. Get plow to be center lined up with center line of tractor top link. Step back from the rear of the plow to visually see this line. This where the cross shaft
adjustment comes into play. Get adjustment close as you can and field adjust in the field after you have plowed a short distance in a furrowed row.

When you open up a field to plow their is no furrow to have the tractor to drop into. So your first run is with a different RT. link setting. You will need to extend the right link to level the plow for this first run. Then return the link once you have the furrow to drop into. Fine tune adjustments as need but Left Link stays collapsed... Plow should follow directly behind the tractor as seen from a distance from the rear of the plow.

Hope this simple explanation helps.

idaho2

 

[ovrszd]

There ya go. No need for further input on this thread!!!! Excellent description with excellent pictures. Well done idaho2!!!

 

[Mearntain]

Thanks for the very detailed explanation and pictures. I think I've come very close to having it set up right, but I think it could do a little better. I got everything lined up with the centerline, or so I think I do, and it wants to pull to the left with the top link angled, not pulling straight behind. It starts off cutting 14 inches, but once it pulls to the left it seems to cut about 12 inches. The ground seems to be plowing decently, filling in most of the previous furrow, but not completely and occasionally missing a couple inches of ground.

When you say make the adjustment with the left lift arm completely collapsed, what do you mean by that? Imy pretty sure I don't have any adjustment for the left side. With all the blocks I had available, I was able to to get the rear tire at about 7" and the front at about 5.5" off the ground.

The settings I had were the top link at about 26 1/8 in and the right arm at about 2 1/8 inches. I ended up moving the right lift arm pin to the front hole as that seemed to have it mostly straight. I also sleed the cross beam to the right slightly so that the lift arms were both at about the same angle to the tractor. Heres a pic of how I set it up. Does anything look out of whack to yall?

 

[DJ54]

Sorry to hear that is was sprung.

If the loops on the right rim are set on the outside of the wheel disc, you could gain a couple inches of adjustment by setting the loops to the inside of the dish. From the rear view, it appears to be setting wide enough, the loops are to the outside. And looks to be plenty of clearance between the tire, and fender to do this. If the tires are loaded, a helper should be in order. I did adjust mine in, but I have an overhead I-beam, with a chain hoist on a trolley, to do my lifting/scooting.

Looks like your on the right track, with just a little tweeking left to be done.

With the tire/wheel set in, you can get your sideways fine adjustment on the crossbeam.

 

[Mearntain]

I'm gonna head out in a few and check the tire spacing. If I'm pulling to the left some with the top link wanting to be angled to the left, does that mean I need to slide the plow to the right on the cross beam? I assume my pin in the front hole is good.

 

[Mearntain]

Doesn't look like I can move the tires in anymore if I'm looking at the right thing.

 

[DJ54]

Can you get a full view picture from the side, of the rear tire..??

 

[Mearntain]

I can get a picture in the morning and post back. When you say a side view, do you mean a picture looking in on the tire on the lug nuts side? Or from the inside of the tire?

Not sure if you saw my earlier post or not, but if it's pulling to the left some, would I slide the plow to the right on the cross beam?

 

[Mearntain]

After trying to get the plow set up today, I was able to get some help unloading my discs from the trailer to be able to level the ground out. I'm thinking part of my issue was the ground being so rough and uneven from messing it up with that spung plow. Now that I was able to disc it and get it mostly flat, it'll hopefully be easier to get the plow set up properly after the ground dries out some in a couple days.

 

[idaho2]

The distance from the inner side of the Rt. tire wall to the tractor midline is 22"to 24". Now measure the distance from (the flange that holds the Rt. link pin) the inner side of the pin to 12" on the horizontal draw bar, Mark it. Now the mid line of the mast to the draw bar (cross member) should be very close to this 12" mark on the draw bar. If not, then loosen the U bolts and adjust the mast portion only. These measurement are to help align your plow to the "pull" of the plow to follow the midline of the tractor. This "pull line" is the imaginary line that extends to the second bottom on the plow, once this falls in line then your set and the plow is now married to this tractor. Hooking up to a different tractor will not work properly.

Note: Can you rotate images before posting. Both sets are 90 degrees off to see..


Idaho2

 

[DJ54]

Just stand back far enough to get a full outside side view of the wheel, rim, & tire.

 

[Mearntain]

The distance from the inner side of the Rt. tire wall to the tractor midline is 22"to 24". Now measure the distance from (the flange that holds the Rt. link pin) the inner side of the pin to 12" on the horizontal draw bar, Mark it. Now the mid line of the mast to the draw bar (cross member) should be very close to this 12" mark on the draw bar. If not, then loosen the U bolts and adjust the mast portion only. These measurement are to help align your plow to the "pull" of the plow to follow the midline of the tractor. This "pull line" is the imaginary line that extends to the second bottom on the plow, once this falls in line then your set and the plow is now married to this tractor. Hooking up to a different tractor will not work properly.

Note: Can you rotate images before posting. Both sets are 90 degrees off to see..


Idaho2

Just to make sure I understand you right - when you are talking about the mast, you are talking about the spot where the top link attaches to on the plow? And then adjust the cross beam side to side until I'm about 12 inches from each of the lift pin flanges to the the center of the top link connection?

And not sure about the pictures, what do you recommend I do? I see what you mean when looking at the previews of the pictures being turned 90 degree, but If I click on the picture, it rotates the picture to being the proper orientation when I view it full size in the forum.

 

[Mearntain]

Just stand back far enough to get a full outside side view of the wheel, rim, & tire.

Sounds good, I'll have one soon to post , I'll get out there in a few. Do the pictures show sideways to you too?

 

[idaho2]

The mast is the "A" frame and the feet of the A are attached to the Horizontal draw bar (cross member) held together by the two U bolts. Forget anything about the left side of the plow. For clarification the Right lift pin (Cat 1 or 2) is the Large bolt thru the flange that is tapered and this pin is used to hook to the tractor. It is measured from this contact point (tractor wheel side) 12" on the horizontal draw bar. The "A" should be centered over this mark.


The image below is from my plow/tractor showing where to measure from and to. Hope this helps.


sent you a private message on TBYN

Idaho2

 

[Mearntain]

That diagram you made up shows its perfect. It looks like I'm right around 21 inches to the inside of the rear tire to he center of the top link. My cross beam is currently at 10 inches, so I need to slide it 2 inches.

 

[Mearntain]

Hopefully this will show what you wanted to see DJ54. According to the picture Idaho2 posted, it seems as if my spacing is good.

 

[idaho2]

Two inches makes a big difference. Slide only the "A" and try that when your field allows. Plow about 50 feet and then check from a distance behind the plow for alignment. When everything is set your tractor will not have a feel of an anchor being pulled. Old three point plows are a trial in patience to setup. But when dialed in it's a joy to plow a field.

idaho2

 

[ovrszd]

Old three point plows are a trial in patience to setup. But when dialed in it's a joy to plow a field.

idaho2

I agree. And they make a low HP and light weight tractor like an old Ford very, very productive!!!!

 

[Mearntain]

Two inches makes a big difference. Slide only the "A" and try that when your field allows. Plow about 50 feet and then check from a distance behind the plow for alignment. When everything is set your tractor will not have a feel of an anchor being pulled. Old three point plows are a trial in patience to setup. But when dialed in it's a joy to plow a field.

idaho2

I don't think I can move the mast on my plow. I can only slide that cross beam side to side. There's a rigid bar that goes from the rear of the plow to the mast. If you look at the plow in this video, you can see what I'm talking about. I have the exact same one but mines a 14.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...leLKptb76KQrhF4Ug&sig2=sfjwPOQTa2NWbEAfo1sXSg