Adding rear hydraulics to L2250

[bjorn773]

I know I'm running an old machine, but can I add rear hydraulics to my tractor. Is it a matter of teeing into the hydraulics for the FEL? I've found threads for L3200's and the like, but none on an old horse like mine. Will the same parts interchange or can I buy off the shelf parts at the tractor supply store?

 

[teg]

From tractordata.com your tractor has for it's hydraulics:
Type: open
Capacity: 8.2 gal
Pressure: 2275 psi
Pump flow: 6.7 gpm
Steering flow: 2.8 gpm

You can not "T" into the FEL, you have to put the valve in series. One after another. Whatever your valve needs to be able to handle 6.7 gpm flow (anything less, the oil will heat up). Do you have any photos of you hydraulic block? also, you FEL valves?

So you'll have high pressure in, high pressure out, and you'll also have Low Pressure return to the tank (you can "T" into that line with the new valve and the FEL valve).

 

[bjorn773]

I will shoot some pictures.

 

[bjorn773]

Here are the loader valve and what I assume is my hydraulic block

 

[bjorn773]

If I'm understanding correctly, I would connect the return hose from my loader valve to the pressure/feed port on a new valve. Then the return from that new valve would connect back to my original hydraulic block return port. Is that what you are referring to as a series circuit? The hoses and new valve need to be capable of handling the loader valve flow, correct? The LP return hose could be teed into the existing LP return hose.

 

[teg]

If I'm understanding correctly, I would connect the return hose from my loader valve to the pressure/feed port on a new valve.

Yes...

Then the return from that new valve would connect back to my original hydraulic block return port. Is that what you are referring to as a series circuit?

Yes...

The hoses and new valve need to be capable of handling the loader valve flow, correct?

Yes... I would get 8 gpm (and I personally would not get one too big, say 15 gpm)

The LP return hose could be teed into the existing LP return hose.

Yes...

For me, I put the new valve before the FEL (doesn't matter where is goes) So I removed the high pressure IN from the FEL and put it in the new valve. Got a new hose to go from the new valve pressure out (power beyond) port and connected into the FEL high pressure (power IN) port. Then "T'ed" the low pressure return together. Sounds pretty simple but you need to know which port is which...

Do you have your tractor and FEL manuals? Mine had the ports listed in there... I don't know your model... and would hate to be guessing at this point.

PS. Locate and mount the new valve first!! So you cut up an old garden hose to route the hoses between the two valves, use the hose to measure the distances. One thing I did wrong was not getting hoses that had ends that had 90* bends and the correct fittings already attached to them.
Discount Hydraulic Hose I think might still be a sponsor of TBN, I don't know, I don't have any ads with my browser...

 

[Gordon Gould]

You are in good hands with teg. Here is a diagram of how I added a grapple valve in series with my loader. Maybe it will help. I put the new valve after the loader. Like teg says it doesn't matter - that is if you know which line is the power beyond out of the loader valve. If you don't know it would be easier putting your new valve before the loader valve. The power beyond from the new valve would go to the FEL valve Pressure in. The out from the new valve would go to tank. And the P in to the new valve would be the P in line you took off the loader valve.



gg

 

[bjorn773]

I'm looking to add a hydraulic top link for my 3pt hitch, where would you recommend buying the cylinder and valve? Would like to use the same valve in winter to turn a 3pt back blade for snow.

 

[Leejohn]

One thing no one has said anything about is, the screwdriver slot on the hyd block. On my old L3010 it had to be stright up and down or sideways. One way it well shut the loader off. If you have a manual it shows it in there.

 

[bjorn773]

I vaguely recall that from the manual... I'll have to read it again.

 

[Leejohn]

I'm looking to add a hydraulic top link for my 3pt hitch, where would you recommend buying the cylinder and valve? Would like to use the same valve in winter to turn a 3pt back blade for snow.

Why not just buy a 2 spool valve and then you well have both?

 

[Leejohn]

bjorn773 did you know there is a place right between your legs under the seat that you can pickup the hyds. If you pick it up there I think you only need 2 hoses.

 

[bjorn773]

bjorn773 did you know there is a place right between your legs under the seat that you can pickup the hyds. If you pick it up there I think you only need 2 hoses.

No, I see hydraulic lines from the block running rearward... I assumed they fed the 3 point. There is not a low pressure return needed at that point?

 

[bjorn773]

So I'd just need something like this for a single cylinder

Prince Single Spool Monoblock Hydraulic Valve 8 GPM MB11B5C1 | eBay

Or this for two?

Prince Hydraulic Control Valve 8 GPM 2 Spool MB21BB5C1 | eBay

And several hoses of course. When my rear cylinders are not connected the fluid should just flow back thru the open center of the valve.

Can I run hoses from the valve to the rear with quick connects on the end for easy access at the rear? (probably a dumb question)

 

[bjorn773]

I just looked under the seat... I see the hard lines for the 3 pt. Do I somehow tap into them or am I missing something? I think I will purchase a shop manual for a circuit diagram.

 

[teg]

No, I see hydraulic lines from the block running rearward... I assumed they fed the 3 point. There is not a low pressure return needed at that point?

3 point hitch only uses pressure to raise the arms... no pressure going the other direction, just uses gravity down. Again, not familiar with your model but this is common on most tractors. There are a few with down pressure...

 

[teg]

I'm looking to add a hydraulic top link for my 3pt hitch, where would you recommend buying the cylinder and valve? Would like to use the same valve in winter to turn a 3pt back blade for snow.

You can check with Brian Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com at least get a quote from him...

 

[teg]

I'm looking to add a hydraulic top link for my 3pt hitch, where would you recommend buying the cylinder and valve? Would like to use the same valve in winter to turn a 3pt back blade for snow.

You can check with Brian Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com at least get a quote from him... Valves and top links and Side links

This is the one I bought from Surplus Center...

3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

Not sure what makes this one cheaper... other than the model doesn't end with "1"
Prince Manufacturing Wolverine 3 Three Spool Hydraulic 4W3P Valve 8GPM MB31BBB5C | eBay

 

[Leejohn]

No, I see hydraulic lines from the block running rearward... I assumed they fed the 3 point. There is not a low pressure return needed at that point?

Look in your manual and see if you can find anything about adding the 1st remote hyd. If not it shows it in the parts manual. If you don't have the parts manual or can't find one I could send you a pdf file of one. It would have to be sent to a email address because it's over 3mb.

 

[JRobyn]

I'm in the process of doing this on my L4330. Although it's a good bit more spendy, Kubota likely makes an exact-fit parts/kit, including all needed fittings, control lever, rear bulkhead/mount, and hoses. Then you just add the valves and cylinders as needed. Check with NateG at Messicks (NateG@messicks.com), or at your local Kubota dealer for details and availability for yours.

As Nate correctly points out, using the Kubota OEM parts may get you a premium come resell or trade time. What is making me spend the extra is the nice integration with the rest of the tractor, good fit, neat routing and mounting, etc.