Eagleview
Veteran Member
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Were the seats cut also? This is usually done after installing new valve guides. I'm also not a fan of grinding valves. You usually grind down through the hardened surface into the softer metal. This means that your valves will need checking more often, and will then sink into the hardened seats. Hardened seat rings are made of a harder steel so they can take cutting. Usually just a slight top trim to ensure the valve is hitting the seat perfectly. This does sound like a valve seat slight leakage problem. Were the valves lapped in after cutting? IH3444
Installed new valve springs and reset lash.
Rechecked compression and all 3 cylinders are at 300psi, give or take 5psi variation.
I just did a head on a 4-cylinder.
Had the head milled and seats ground. But got new valves and springs/locks. For the cost to machine a valve, and the price of new valves, it was foolish to try to save the old valves IMO.
I agree with others that you have a valve issue. All new valves and springs for my 4-cylinder were ~$80 for the 8 valves and springs.
The angle of the valves and seats also need to be matched, but not the same. Its an interference angle. The valve and head are ground 1/2 a degree to 1 degree different. Then need lapped.
Take that head back, have them re-work it, and you should be all set.
Sucks! Glad you got the valves sorted though, wow, how could any decent machine shop have let that get by?
I can tell you because I replace a fair amount of valve guides myself, the concentricity of the valve moves once the guide is replaced and it takes a bit of cutting to correct it. The real machine shops use a Serdi valve seat machine to get it right the first time.
I use Neway seat cutters and use a dye to make the initial check, then after final cutting and lapping a vacuum check tells the story.
Regards, Fred
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