Kioti Maintenance

[12Bravo]

With me being new to tractors I wanted to take the time to start a new thread about maintenance and maybe learn a few things from past owners and experienced operators.

While at the dealership I was tole to check all bolts on rims and FEL every 8 hours of operation.

What other areas of the tractor should I be giving a little extra attention and looking for? Oil levels and stuff is the same in any machine, but what are some of the items as a new owner to a tractor should I be on top of?

 

[Looking4new]

Check and retorque all loader mount bolts/nuts including the wheel lug nuts until such a time as you don't get any movement out of them. And do it again when you service at 50, 100, 200 and so on hours.
Grease it regularly. Grease is your best friend. An even better friend than your wife.
I don't know about other brands, but on my Kioti there are two grease fittings that only take 1 shot of grease once a year. The rest of the fittings get liberal grease.

 

[k0ua]

With me being new to tractors I wanted to take the time to start a new thread about maintenance and maybe learn a few things from past owners and experienced operators.

While at the dealership I was tole to check all bolts on rims and FEL every 8 hours of operation.

What other areas of the tractor should I be giving a little extra attention and looking for? Oil levels and stuff is the same in any machine, but what are some of the items as a new owner to a tractor should I be on top of?

Check all the bolts for a while. Wouldn't hurt to put marks on them (lines) to monitor if they move or not. When you get to about 100 hours, you can check em at about every 100 hours. Get all your supplies ready for the 50 hour complete service. 50 hours might be a year away or might be a week away, depending on how hard you use it. Grease the loader and BH every 10 hours of usage. Obviously if you don't use either one like for instance you are mowing and rack up 10 hours, you don't need to grease the loader and Back Hoe. You just kind of have to estimate this.

Grease the chassis zerks at every 50 hours. It wouldn't hurt to check all zerks and grease upon delivery. Dealers have been know to miss them.
Check your air filter, I use a vacuum cleaner to suck on the outside of the filter instead of blowing air from the inside out. Check your radiator and front of the hood for chaff when mowing in high grass/weeds. This is very important to prevent overheating.

Check Battery connections are tight and greased. Be sure to check the ground connection to the frame also. Check that the battery hold down hardware is tight. You can't have the battery bouncing around. Tractor batteries take a beating. I grease the hardware threads too to help prevent corrosion in the presence of the battery fumes.

If storing the tractor outside, the key switch is notorious for getting water in it and is a common failure point. I used Fluid Film shot into mine, repeat annually. By the way a can of Fluid Film is great stuff to put on PTO shaft, and 3 point hitch balls. Good lube/protectant. You can get a can at Lowes or order from the internet.

 

[Fuggley]

...I don't know about other brands, but on my Kioti there are two grease fittings that only take 1 shot of grease once a year. The rest of the fittings get liberal grease.

Just wondering... what location are these two 1 shot/year fittings at?

 

[murphy1244]

Just wondering... what location are these two 1 shot/year fittings at?

One of them is the center steering joint.

 

[k0ua]

Just wondering... what location are these two 1 shot/year fittings at?

Front axle pivot bolt zerks, inboard and outboard. One or more of these are often missed. Also the 3pt zerks don't usually need much.

 

[murphy1244]

Front axle pivot bolt zerks, inboard and outboard. One or more of these are often missed. Also the 3pt zerks don't usually need much.

I blew the canister clean off my grease gun trying to force it.:laughing:

 

[Everhard]

I'll add my vote to keeping things greased. That's critical for tractors - the front axle given it's constantly pivoting/turning and has a fair amount of weight/stresses on it makes it very important to stay on top of. The front axle pivot points are known as being a pain to get grease into, if I'd known that when I got my tractor I would have greased them before the first time I used the tractor. As everyone else has said if you're using the loader or anything else with grease fittings keep on top of greasing those.
Regarding bolts my experience was that none budged at all - well not any that I'd expect. (loader etc) when I installed the rear remotes I had to loosen the fenders - that's where I found a couple loose bolts! literally I could spin them out by hand without any resistance. (tractor had approx. 200hrs at that point.)

Oh if you're not familiar with greasing a tractor - key is to take pressure off the joint you're greasing if you can't pump grease in. Ie with the loader move them controls as needed to get the weight off a joint or use the loader to lift the front of the tractor into the air to take the weight off the front axle for example.

E.

 

[handtools]

"Get all your supplies ready for the 50 hour complete service"

+1 on this point, 50 hrs snuck up on me really fast!

 

[747driver]

Agreed on the ignition switch. chased the wires and cleaned every connection in the starting system as the tractor would not start. Came across a post about cleaning the ignition switch. So i bought a can of Electro Contact cleaner and lube. Gave the key switch a few shots of the lube and now the tractor starts every time first time ! I get my filters from Nolts Equip online. $130 for all the filters for a 200 hr. service. They are OEM filters.

 

[12Bravo]

Thank you all, this is some good information here!

Dumb question...ready for it.......Where is the darn hydraulic glass or dip stick? Where do I look to make sure it is full? I read the manual and didn't see where to check it.

 

[Looking4new]

Thank you all, this is some good information here!

Dumb question...ready for it.......Where is the darn hydraulic glass or dip stick? Where do I look to make sure it is full? I read the manual and didn't see where to check it.

If it is anything like my ck27 look on the left rear.

 

[k0ua]

If it is anything like my ck27 look on the left rear.

Yeah, same place on my DK35se.. rear of tractor, on the left. Fluid is very difficult to see unless very good sunlight. We can't say for sure if your is there though, as you have a new model.

 

[12Bravo]

What gets me, nothing in manual about it!

I laughed at the changing hoses every 2 years too, yea who does that!?

I have 12.9 hours on it now and still amazed I got it. Have move tons of wood and dirt so far. Once I get time to resize all my photos or open a photobucket account I will post more pictures for you all in another thread.

 

[Looking4new]

I took a peek at the CS2610 on the Kioti website and the video they have of it working, it looks like the hydraulic dipstick is a little lower down than the one on the CK27, but it appears to be in the same location, more or less.

 

[blucoondawg]

Doesn't hurt to keep some of the relays on hand. That's the only problem I've had with my dk50se is relays, I've only replaced one so far but numerous times I've had to wiggle the connection or tap on the fuel relay to get it to start. The relays are pretty cheap and when mine fails finally it will be a day i really need the tractor and the parts stores are closed. My tractor sits out more than id like so that may be part of my issue. The ignition is garbage to as mentioned, mine still works but I've had to oil it in gonna pull out a and clean it up if I can put else replace it. Also check your coolant lines, the house clamps on the radiator hoses are junk I've had 2 leaks so far, tightened them up, I'll see if they come back.

 

[oosik]

The ignition switch - I did not maintain the one on my ATV. Consequently, the little sliding cover stuck open - there is a "brand" of wasp here that deposits a material like pine pitch in tiny cracks and I guess, their eggs also. In any case, a wasp got to my ignition switch on the ATV and now my key is permanently mounted in the switch. I shoot a healthy shot of WD-40 2X annually in the tractor ignition switch and double check to ensure the little sliding cover works properly. Remember - - grease is your friend.

 

[Looking4new]

Watch out for the rad drain tap. Mine worked itself loose and I lost about a quart of coolant. That tap should be on the lower corner of the rad on the right (when you are sitting in the seat). Although with mine I can check the oil without opening the hood, I open the hood anyway and check the alternator/fan belt and coolant level.

 

[dadster4]

Thank you all, this is some good information here!

Dumb question...ready for it.......Where is the darn hydraulic glass or dip stick? Where do I look to make sure it is full? I read the manual and didn't see where to check it.

Right rear- little dipstick, check and fill here. ALL fluid levels can be checked from the right side of the tractor and all caps/plugs are orange.

 

[12Bravo]

Right rear- little dipstick, check and fill here. ALL fluid levels can be checked from the right side of the tractor and all caps/plugs are orange.

Where did you get your CK3510?