Tractor Sizing L series comparison

[jyoutz]

After 15 years with my John Deere 4100 compact tractor, I've decided to upgrade. It's too small for my needs. I use the heck out of it roto- tilling, doing loader work, mowing with my rotary cutter, and maintaining my 2000+ feet of private road (grading and snow removal). I have 20 acres and I typically mow about 10 acres of native grass. I don't want to go to much larger because the smaller tractor does work nicely in my garden and barn, but I need one that is heavier, more stable and with a larger frame. I actually do everything I need to do with the 4100 (20 HP gear) but I sometimes feel unstable when doing loader and road work. I want a wider tractor with more weight. I have my eyes on the L2510 and L3301. Both tractors have the same frame size, weight, and loader capacity. The only difference is the HP (25 vs 33). The cost difference is about $3-4K. I'd like to hear some thoughts - I'm pretty sure that the L2501 would be a big step up from my current machine and would fit my needs. BUT I'm wondering what I'd be giving up by not going for the greater HP on the L3301?

 

[LD1]

More HP ain't gonna gain you anything for loader work or drive maintenance. But is a huge help for anything pto driven. Tiller, mower, bushhog, etc. That step up in BP should allow 12" wider implements to be ran with about the same load on the tractor.

 

[wcampbell47]

The L series is a great tractor. I recently traded my 32hp B3200 for an L3901. Same frame size as what you are considering, just more HP. A neighbor owns a landscaping company in town and recently purchased an L25. That is ok as he only loads mulch. I work with heavy wet clay and have to put ballast on the rear to hold it down. The L model will handle your implements much better than the 4100. Go HST and add the cruise control option for mowing. Go for as much horsepower as your budget will allow. You will have no regrets buying the larger hp unit. Better to have the power and not need it than to need the power and not have it. I put my money on the L3901. I started with a 21 hp unit and graduated to the 39. No regrets except I did not buy the 39 first.

 

[TripleR]

Pretty much what LD1 said from looking at the spec sheet. We mow a lot of native grass and it takes a lot of power to keep up good ground speed. I like running my tractors, but sometimes less time in the seat can be a good thing.

I went out to buy a L3400 and came home with a L5030 and never regretted it, but we have a lot of acreage. A 3400 would have done it, but the bigger one does it quicker.

It would sure be worth it to me, but not others.

 

[Citydude]

^^ This. I traded in my L3400 commercial tractor I used for right of way mowing for an L2501 only because I no longer needed the PTO horsepower for a 6' cutter. I did need the same sized frame for weight and stance for hilly, wooded conditions. I didn't notice any difference in performance with the FEL or BB between the two.

I put the cutter on the 2501 and it does OK on my property however a 6' cutter is asking a lot out of a 21 horsepower PTO.

 

[TMR]

I am also trying to decide by spring...most likely between the B650/B3350 class and the L2502/3301/3901 class. I also plan on brush hogging wild grass/saplings, work on trails, work off road "cleaning" deadfalls, clearing lots of older dead stumps out and general 120 acre (mostly treed) stuff

Couple of questions to add to the discussion. I have read the posts on the Tier IV B3350 having regeneration problems...that may or may not have been fixed yet. Many question buying a Tier IV until issues are well past us. I assume the L3301 and the L3901 are both Tier IV Final engines? Do they have the same Tier IV issues??

Hope OP is curious about same issue...not trying to step on his thread...Thanks...Tom R

 

[wcampbell47]

I am also trying to decide by spring...most likely between the B650/B3350 class and the L2502/3301/3901 class. I also plan on brush hogging wild grass/saplings, work on trails, work off road "cleaning" deadfalls, clearing lots of older dead stumps out and general 120 acre (mostly treed) stuff

Couple of questions to add to the discussion. I have read the posts on the Tier IV B3350 having regeneration problems...that may or may not have been fixed yet. Many question buying a Tier IV until issues are well past us. I assume the L3301 and the L3901 are both Tier IV Final engines? Do they have the same Tier IV issues??

Hope OP is curious about same issue...not trying to step on his thread...Thanks...Tom R

My L39 has a Tier IV engine but not with DEF. If I run at less than 2000 RPMs the REGEN light flashes after a period of time. A few minutes at 2000 plus RPM and it goes away. I generally run at 2000 RPM which prevents the REGEN light from coming on often. If you don't want to hassle with DEF then go find a dealer now that has some older inventory. My dealer told me that after the first of the year the only thing he will be able to get are units that require DEF. Next week should be a great time to make a good deal. End of year inventory clearance.

 

[Citydude]

I am also trying to decide by spring...most likely between the B650/B3350 class and the L2502/3301/3901 class. I also plan on brush hogging wild grass/saplings, work on trails, work off road "cleaning" deadfalls, clearing lots of older dead stumps out and general 120 acre (mostly treed) stuff Couple of questions to add to the discussion. I have read the posts on the Tier IV B3350 having regeneration problems...that may or may not have been fixed yet. Many question buying a Tier IV until issues are well past us. I assume the L3301 and the L3901 are both Tier IV Final engines? Do they have the same Tier IV issues?? Hope OP is curious about same issue...not trying to step on his thread...Thanks...Tom R

The 3301 and the 3901 are both Tier IV final engines. Just judging off of non threads here on TBN, seems as if they are not having issues. 120 acres of woods would push me up to an L series with at minimum 30 horses at the PTO.

Keeping in mind that working in woods with steep terrain, I wouldn't be doing anything "fast", the L2501 was the logical choice for my 23 acres.

 

[jyoutz]

The 3301 and the 3901 are both Tier IV final engines. Just judging off of non threads here on TBN, seems as if they are not having issues. 120 acres of woods would push me up to an L series with at minimum 30 horses at the PTO.

Keeping in mind that working in woods with steep terrain, I wouldn't be doing anything "fast", the L2501 was the logical choice for my 23 acres.

Thanks for all of your responses. I do agree with the L series over the B series for uneven ground or anything rough. Frame size and weight are more important than HP in these uses. From the responses here, it sounds like either a 2501 or 3301 would work for me. A couple of other questions: Some times I push heavy snow. I usually run out of traction, not HP in these cases, but I'd like some thoughts from others. Also, What about the emissions situation? I understand that the 3301 and larger sizes use DEF, while the 2501 does not. Is there an appreciable difference in exhaust smell between the two? I have never been fond of smelling diesel fumes for hours on my 4100. This could make the difference for me.

 

[Mike from MI]

It seems to me that what I've read about the Tier IV final engines are having more problems in cold weather conditions. This is just my observation. I for one will be keeping my eye on threads on this when weather changes.
By the way it was in the 50's yesterday here in Michigan.

 

[Fallon]

My L3200 is the same as the new L3301 (minus tier 4 emissions stuff). I'm pretty happy with it. I don't think I'd be happy with 5+ less HP though, especially on a HST. A L3800 (4 more HP than mine, otherwise the same) would have been about $2k more & I only rarely regret not getting the extra HP. If it had been $1k more I'd have regretted it a fair bit more.

With chains on the front this year I was running short on power (in medium) when plowing 6-8" of snow. I occasionally have to ease off field mowing with my 5' rotary cutter. I typically mow in low instead of medium (what I use on the rotary) when using my 7' flail mower & occasionally have to ease off the go pedal when hitting thicker grass. Before I loaded the tires (I would say loaded tires are critical for safety as well) I was traction bound most of the time. Now with loaded R4s I'm power bound at least half the time.

The HST transmission robs you of 15% of your HP, but boy is it worth it. I just love the flexibility & precision of the HST when doing precision plowing or loader work. I have absolutely no issues sticking the pallet forks within inches of my truck when unloading stuff or what not. No way I'd get that close with a gear.

Anything over 25hp needs tier 4 emissions stuff. Hence them comming out with a 25hp tractor, which in my opinion is a bit under powered for the L3000 series frame.

While I'm happy with my economy L3200 & would do the same thing over again with the same budget I had at the time, I'm contemplating eventually upgrading to a 3000 series grand with a cab & extra bells & whistles. A bit more power & a bit more weight will be nice, although I really don't want much wider of a tractor than I have now. Blowing & plowing snow with an open station is just getting tedious, not to mention I like the cool toys. The Grands are 50% more expensive than the same caliber economy model though.

 

[s219]

My L3200 is the same as the new L3301 (minus tier 4 emissions stuff). I'm pretty happy with it. I don't think I'd be happy with 5+ less HP though, especially on a HST. A L3800 (4 more HP than mine, otherwise the same) would have been about $2k more & I only rarely regret not getting the extra HP. If it had been $1k more I'd have regretted it a fair bit more.

With chains on the front this year I was running short on power (in medium) when plowing 6-8" of snow. I occasionally have to ease off field mowing with my 5' rotary cutter. I typically mow in low instead of medium (what I use on the rotary) when using my 7' flail mower & occasionally have to ease off the go pedal when hitting thicker grass. Before I loaded the tires (I would say loaded tires are critical for safety as well) I was traction bound most of the time. Now with loaded R4s I'm power bound at least half the time.

The HST transmission robs you of 15% of your HP, but boy is it worth it. I just love the flexibility & precision of the HST when doing precision plowing or loader work. I have absolutely no issues sticking the pallet forks within inches of my truck when unloading stuff or what not. No way I'd get that close with a gear.

Anything over 25hp needs tier 4 emissions stuff. Hence them comming out with a 25hp tractor, which in my opinion is a bit under powered for the L3000 series frame.

While I'm happy with my economy L3200 & would do the same thing over again with the same budget I had at the time, I'm contemplating eventually upgrading to a 3000 series grand with a cab & extra bells & whistles. A bit more power & a bit more weight will be nice, although I really don't want much wider of a tractor than I have now. Blowing & plowing snow with an open station is just getting tedious, not to mention I like the cool toys. The Grands are 50% more expensive than the same caliber economy model though.

I could have written the same things Fallon said very well (though I have to issue a friendly warning, this is the second time I have seen you talking yourself into a Grand L upgrade, so be careful, you're on a slippery slope.... and if you're not careful, you might drag me down too -- I'm a sucker for any half-legitimate reasoning about upgrading tractors).

I was at my dealer the other day (for unrelated reasons) and talked with another customer who was looking at buying an L3301 or L3901. We talked at length about power/traction. As I told him, the only time I feel like I need more power than 32HP is when running a box blade in heavy damp soil and the box fills up. The tractor has to work hard for that. But most times, I am pulling a half-full box of drier soil or gravel, and 32HP is just fine. I'd say 32HP is enough for 95% of my uses.

My older tractor (B2920, much smaller and lighter but with just 3HP less) would run out of traction with a box blade full of heavy soil, and that wasn't any better than the L running out of power. At some point with a heavy ground engaging implement on the back, you're going to run out of power or traction. All else equal, I think running out of traction is slightly more frustrating.

As far as snow removal, I use a rear blade, and so far I have not had traction or power issues clearing 6-8" of snow on my mostly flat driveway. Around here we almost always get heavy wet snow. I tend to clear heavy snow in medium range with 4WD engaged. When the snow is less deep or lighter/powdery, I can use 2WD without problems in medium range. So for my area, working with a rear blade, the L3200's size/power is almost perfect.

 

[Fallon]

I could have written the same things Fallon said very well (though I have to issue a friendly warning, this is the second time I have seen you talking yourself into a Grand L upgrade, so be careful, you're on a slippery slope.... and if you're not careful, you might drag me down too -- I'm a sucker for any half-legitimate reasoning about upgrading tractors). If you poke around here enough you'll figure out 75% of the people who upgrade go for a bigger tractor, not many wish they had a smaller tractor.

I was at my dealer the other day (for unrelated reasons) and talked with another customer who was looking at buying an L3301 or L3901. We talked at length about power/traction. As I told him, the only time I feel like I need more power than 32HP is when running a box blade in heavy damp soil and the box fills up. The tractor has to work hard for that. But most times, I am pulling a half-full box of drier soil or gravel, and 32HP is just fine. I'd say 32HP is enough for 95% of my uses.

My older tractor (B2920, much smaller and lighter but with just 3HP less) would run out of traction with a box blade full of heavy soil, and that wasn't any better than the L running out of power. At some point with a heavy ground engaging implement on the back, you're going to run out of power or traction. All else equal, I think running out of traction is slightly more frustrating.

As far as snow removal, I use a rear blade, and so far I have not had traction or power issues clearing 6-8" of snow on my mostly flat driveway. Around here we almost always get heavy wet snow. I tend to clear heavy snow in medium range with 4WD engaged. When the snow is less deep or lighter/powdery, I can use 2WD without problems in medium range. So for my area, working with a rear blade, the L3200's size/power is almost perfect.

lol, never claimed to be a GOOD influence. Realistically I'm probably a couple years off from upgrading to my Grand.

Generally I mow & move around in 2wd, but kick it into 4wd any time I'm going to be working the tractor. I really haven't noticed significant power problems with my box blade work actually. I excavated out the back of my shop, which was buried about 2' with pretty much just the box blade. I was in low range & moving pretty slow keeping track of more precise cuts, but never felt under powered. Doing some driveway tuneup at higher speeds if I get a relatively full box, it will start to put a load on the engine, but doing that kind of work I only try to keep the box half full.

I recently sold off my back blade as I built a SSQA truck plow & mount a while back & just upgraded to a rear blower. Traction in snow wasn't great, but got the job done until this winter. I realized I needed more snow traction & clearing power, hence the blower. I also put chains on the front, which cured my traction limitations & I can now turn while plowing. R1 tires might be better with more traction, but I like the compromise of the R4s (durability, carying capacity, floatation, not tearing up the yard, etc.) over the pure traction R1s.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

I have an L 3301. Great little tractor with a very quick response fel. I pull 6 ft implements with no problem, but finish mow with a 5 foot king kutter with ease. I have the shuttle shift, gear drive and just love it. They are a bit spartan, but nice tractors.

 

[NoTrespassing]

Avoid the emissions equipment and buy a good used low hour unit if you can. Put the money saved towards more HP. Also, personally I don't like bells or whistles, I like dollars. I admit I like HST though and wouldn't be without it for my needs.
JMHO,
Kevin

 

[jyoutz]

Avoid the emissions equipment and buy a good used low hour unit if you can. Put the money saved towards more HP. Also, personally I don't like bells or whistles, I like dollars. I admit I like HST though and wouldn't be without it for my needs.
JMHO,
Kevin

Thanks for the suggestion. But late model used tractors are pretty much non-existent where I live. I have dealers that sell new, and we see lots of older, very well used tractors, but that's about it. The lack of the emissions equipment is why I was considering the L2501, but I'm still wondering if I would want the extra HP. I suspect that the 2501 would serve my needs well, because the only ground-engaging work I do is with my rototiller and one-bottom plow. I can marginally operate the plow, and the rototiller works fine with my current smaller tractor. But on the other hand, I would hate to be sorry, just to save a few thousand $.

 

[Citydude]

Thanks for the suggestion. But late model used tractors are pretty much non-existent where I live. I have dealers that sell new, and we see lots of older, very well used tractors, but that's about it. The lack of the emissions equipment is why I was considering the L2501, but I'm still wondering if I would want the extra HP. I suspect that the 2501 would serve my needs well, because the only ground-engaging work I do is with my rototiller and one-bottom plow. I can marginally operate the plow, and the rototiller works fine with my current smaller tractor. But on the other hand, I would hate to be sorry, just to save a few thousand $.

If your planning on getting larger PTO driven implements and HST transmission, get more horses. Weight, if dirt moving implements are used, is important. With that, the 2501 weighs 2600 pounds (gear) and the 3901 just 125 pounds more (gear). Take time at look at Tractor Data on each model and compare horsepower to the PTO in geared and HST models. Make sure your not short changing yourself on that.

Either way, do what you feel is right for you and your budget. Extra horsepower is never a bad decision if you can afford it.

 

[gsganzer]

As an owner of 2 Kubota's, I'm not trying to talk you out of a Kubota. But have you looked at some of the other brands or have any other dealers near you, specifically Kioti or LS? When it comes to the price of the economy Kubota L series, you can very easily spend the same for an LS or Kioti and get considerably more features. The fact is, most of todays compact tractors have Asian made powertrains and are on a close par for quality. I bought a Kubota because that dealer is closest to me, but if I had one of the other dealers nearby, I very likely would have gone with them.

 

[varmint]

Usually, someone will mention sitting and driving around a bit on whatever machine you are considering, to make sure it's a "fit" but maybe that's not an issue for you? I sometimes wish I had a bit more power with my L3400, but only because I get impatient. Think about rear wheel spacers, or if the rears will reverse to a wider stance, either solution seems to give more stability. If diesel goes up again, remember that power equals fuel consumption, maybe a factor if you are spending a lot of hours on your tractor, but not getting paid for it, although at $2 a gallon, or less, that isn't much of a determinant, is it?

 

[jyoutz]

As an owner of 2 Kubota's, I'm not trying to talk you out of a Kubota. But have you looked at some of the other brands or have any other dealers near you, specifically Kioti or LS? When it comes to the price of the economy Kubota L series, you can very easily spend the same for an LS or Kioti and get considerably more features. The fact is, most of todays compact tractors have Asian made powertrains and are on a close par for quality. I bought a Kubota because that dealer is closest to me, but if I had one of the other dealers nearby, I very likely would have gone with them.

I have only considered JD and Kubota because these are the only dealers we have in Albuquerque (I live 30 miles east). New Holland and Massey dealers are a few hundred miles away. The nearest Kioti dealer is over 100 miles away, and I have never seen an LS dealer in NM. I started looking at JD, but was not impressed with their comparably priced machines relative to the L-series Kubotas.