DK-40 Hydro fluid/filter change: Methods

[Coyote machine]

Thinking out loud here. Want to change my complete hydro fluid and filter for a periodic change interval. Thinking of using my never used siphon pump to suck the hydro oil out then drain the remaining amount after the bulk of the +/- 10 gallons is removed. Seems it would make for way less possible mess, and then it would be easier to pull the drain plugs without a huge amount of fluid wanting to cover me and my shop with oil. I have dreaded doing this change, largely because I hate having oil spillage of any quantity, and the hydro holds so many gallons access with a container large enough to hold it all is near impossible under the tractor.

Thoughts?

 

[kco]

I use the bottom third of a 30 gallon drum to catch the hydraulic oil from my DK35SE. It fits under the tractor with a few inches of clearance and easily handles the volume.

 

[k0ua]

I use a 62 quart "tote" from the dollar store.
I have always wondered if sucking oil out of a sump is as effective at getting rid of sludge and particles in the bottom of the sump as using the drain plug.
My thinking on this is that when opening a huge drain plug like our Kioti's have causes a "tidal wave" of flow that may sweep out the particles out of the bottom of the sump.

I don't have any proof of this, but those are my thoughts.

 

[Coyote machine]

I use the bottom third of a 30 gallon drum to catch the hydraulic oil from my DK35SE. It fits under the tractor with a few inches of clearance and easily handles the volume.

I do have 50 gallon plastic barrels. I could cut one to do what you're saying you use. I had thought of cutting it in half vertically, but now that you mention it; it would work better just cutting it across the barrel, leaving enough clearance to fit under the tractor frame. I could even do it upside down so the bung/hole would be able to be used as a barrel drain, if there is room to place it on a wheeled dolly, and still get it under the tractor for draining the hydro.

I use a 62 quart "tote" from the dollar store.
I have always wondered if sucking oil out of a sump is as effective at getting rid of sludge and particles in the bottom of the sump as using the drain plug.
My thinking on this is that when opening a huge drain plug like our Kioti's have causes a "tidal wave" of flow that may sweep out the particles out of the bottom of the sump.

I don't have any proof of this, but those are my thoughts.

That's a good point. How much sludge have you seen in the sump/hydro draining you've done to date?
One theory as to why suction works possibly better, in some applications like oil pans, is that one is able to get all the oil/fluid out; whereas when allowing to drain from the plugs there is the area where the drain plug can't drain all the fluid due to the plug's machined opening being recessed into the pan and causing areas that retain fluid. With the suction tube, in theory, those remaining areas can be sucked dry by vacuum from the pump action, resulting in more complete removal of the oil/fluid(s).
I guess it depends on the shape/contours of the pan and how recessed the drain plugs are?
I may try a little of each. Suck out most and drain out the rest, finishing up with the suction pump to get the remaining amount, as possible.

 

[murphy1244]

CM, They do boats with a pump for oil. I bought a extractor but it only hold 3 gal of fluid. How many hours you have on it?

 

[Coyote machine]

CM, They do boats with a pump for oil. I bought a extractor but it only hold 3 gal of fluid. How many hours you have on it?

That's what I have. A West Marine tubular oil extractor, I bought for my Yami 225HP 4 stroke oil change(s). I haven't used it yet. I think it holds about 3** gallons? too. Thought I'd do my 1st hydro fluid pump out with the new syphon. This way I can take a look at the hydro fluid when it's pumped out to see the color, consistency and any particulate/metal matter.
I've got somewhere near 850-900 hours on it with just filter changes and top offs from various minor leaks.

**UPDATE: The West Marine extractor holds 6.5L/6.9 quarts, 1.71711834 US gallons.
The other oil extractor I have used for my generator: Smart Tool UG-188B holds about the same amount.

 

[murphy1244]

That's what I have. A West Marine tubular oil extractor, I bought for my Yami 225HP 4 stroke oil change(s). I haven't used it yet. I think it holds about 3 gallons? too. Thought I'd do my 1st hydro fluid pump out with the new syphon. This way I can take a look at the hydro fluid when it's pumped out to see the color, consistency and any particulate/metal matter.
I've got somewhere near 850-900 hours on it with just filter changes and top offs from various minor leaks.

I would drain the fluid from your BH too. What do you think?

 

[Coyote machine]

I would drain the fluid from your BH too. What do you think?

I agree completely. The hoe shares the hydro fluid with the tractor so there is really no way to get all of it out, unless you have some ideas on how to drain the hoe too - seperately?
I'm all ears on that one....

 

[roadhunter]

I agree completely. The hoe shares the hydro fluid with the tractor so there is really no way to get all of it out, unless you have some ideas on how to drain the hoe too - seperately?
I'm all ears on that one....

Just try to collapse all the hydraulic cylinders to minimize the amount of fluid that is not drained. Probably means laying the boom out straight.

As far as sucking out the oil that is done on boats out of necessity, not because it works better. Hard to beat gravity.

 

[k0ua]

I agree that retracting the cylinders will put a bit more fluid back into the tank, but just that volume that the rod displaces. Because the rod side of the cylinder fills with fluid as you retract. So you do gain some but not a whole lot

 

[Coyote machine]

Just try to collapse all the hydraulic cylinders to minimize the amount of fluid that is not drained. Probably means laying the boom out straight.

As far as sucking out the oil that is done on boats out of necessity, not because it works better. Hard to beat gravity.

Yeah, I have a boat with a 225HP Yami 4 stroke. which the dealer used the same extractor on that I bought when they did the first service.
I hadn't made the connection to boats with I/O's or inboards needing to extract the oil vs. draining it. Can always lift them up and poke a hole thru the hull in a pinch.:laughing:

 

[Coyote machine]

I agree that retracting the cylinders will put a bit more fluid back into the tank, but just that volume that the rod displaces. Because the rod side of the cylinder fills with fluid as you retract. So you do gain some but not a whole lot

I hear you on that. Would be nice to have a way to get it all, but that's what the filters are for too. Pulling out the dirt and moisture/water.:thumbsup:

 

[ritcheyvs]

On my DK45S (afa DK451) the hydraulic fluid drains very slowly as long as the fill port is plugged and the dipstick is inserted. I use that fact to modulate how fast the hydro oil drains. That is, I remove the dipstick (or fill cap) to get a high flow rate when the catch bucket is in place and replace it briefly while I swap buckets. I too think a gushing flow helps carry out sludge and metal filings. I routinely use a Topsider-style pump to change engine oil but I don't think that would be good for the hydraulics. I got a lot of unsuspended crap (like metal chips) when I last drained my hydraulic system; I doubt sucking would remove that.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

By draining one wheel drain first a 4 gal bucket held the drainage and then the other wheel and finely the middle. Worked for me on the DK45HST.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I drive the rear wheels up on ramps and am able to put 5 gal buckets under the 2 drain holes....easy and cheap.

 

[Coyote machine]

Oldpilgrim, what are you using for ramps? Metal or the plastic/composite? How much does your rig weigh?

 

[oldpilgrim]

Metal, sorta like these but with more ruggedness built in. Mine are rated at 9000 lbs.

Ironton Detachable Car Ramps — Set of Two 2,500-Lb. Capacity Ramps, Accommodates 5,000 Lbs. Pair | Car Truck Ramps| Northern Tool + Equipment

My 3016 isn't anywhere near that. Even with my bh on, which it wasn't, it's less than that.

I'd think that most any CUT/ tractor would probably weigh in at under 5000 at the rear wheels, if there's no bh on it.

I have wood ramps I use for leveling my motorhome, and if I didn't have these metal ramps, Ī'd consider making some out of 2x10's just for this.


these would work:
RhinoGear 12,000 Pound Automotive Ramp | Product Details | Pep Boys

or these:
Hopkins/12000 lbs. RhinoRamps Max 11909MI at AutoZone.com - 9 reviews

I bet you'd find other uses for them too.