Rotary Cutter Rotary cutter top link connect

[Skidrowe18]

I was given a new rotary cutter (uni farm brand I was told). I didnt pay too close attention to it when delivered but when hooking it up I could not see where the top link would attach. I am newbie so be kind

Here are some pictures of how I think it is supposed to be connected. I did thnk that the hole under the top strap would be correct, but the diameter was awfully small for a pin. I am pretty sure this is correct but could not find any information on lots of searching so thought that the wealth of knowledge here would surely know.

 

[C4Ranch]

Easy to tell, which hole is cat 1 in Diamater?

 

[JimRB]

The brace to the back of the tractor is usually on the bottom hole. I suspect whoever put it together did not know any better. If it is new there should have been an owners manual. Sometimes they zip tie the owners manual to the blades. Not terribly useful after you mowed a bit without removing the manual. The slip clutch should be covered by protective plastic. They usually bolt to the gearbox. Again someone who assembled did not assemble correctly. Look at some pictures here. Different brand but the concept is the same. http://www.bushhog.com/uploads/documents/BHSingleSpindleCutters-Spec.pdf

 

[travlitt]

I was given a new rotary cutter (uni farm brand I was told). I didnt pay too close attention to it when delivered but when hooking it up I could not see where the top link would attach. I am newbie so be kind

Here are some pictures of how I think it is supposed to be connected. I did thnk that the hole under the top strap would be correct, but the diameter was awfully small for a pin. I am pretty sure this is correct but could not find any information on lots of searching so thought that the wealth of knowledge here would surely know.

View attachment 440010 View attachment 440011 View attachment 440012

You will also need some kind of flex link either in the top link or the brace from the top link to the back of the deck. Other wise you will bend something.

 

[farmer2009]

Move your mower brace down one hole. Then that's where the top link goes. That will also make the 3pt more plumb.

Since you don't have a swiveling top link hookup. Then replace top link with a length of chain with a clevises on each end. This will let the hog float over uneven ground. Other wise you will be bending top links or the brace you moved in step one.

Then have fun mowing.

 

[dusty3030]

Move your mower brace down one hole. Then that's where the top link goes. That will also make the 3pt more plumb. Since you don't have a swiveling top link hookup. Then replace top link with a length of chain with a clevises on each end. This will let the hog float over uneven ground. Other wise you will be bending top links or the brace you moved in step one. Then have fun mowing.

Isn't the other end attached with chain? Look at tail wheel end isn't that a short piece of chain on that end?

 

[farmer2009]

Isn't the other end attached with chain? Look at tail wheel end isn't that a short piece of chain on that end?

You are right. I didn't see that. Good eye.

 

[MitchellB]

Since you don't have a swiveling top link hookup. Then replace top link with a length of chain with a clevises on each end. This will let the hog float over uneven ground. Other wise you will be bending top links or the brace you moved in step one.

Then have fun mowing.

Looks like you have a 5-6 link chain at the bottom of the flat brace to the top link that will give you the flex needed on the rear of the deck from the top link connection when going over hills and valleys. I agree with the others about moving the brace to the lower hole and I think you'll find your top link larger hole above it.

 

[gwdixon]

I think that I'm repeating what the others have said:

>Unbolt the flat bar on the mower that attaches to the "A" frame and bolt it to the smaller hole just below.

>The top link should attach to the top hole in the "A" frame where the flat bar is currently attached.

>Before hooking up the top link, make sure the "A" frame can move slightly back and forth. It will feel loose, but should pivot at the bottom of the "A" frame where it attaches to the mower deck. Those bolts should use Nylock or similar nuts to keep those bolts from being torqued too tightly.

>The other end of the flat bar should be attached to the chain and will be the limiting factor for how far the "A" frame moves back and forth. If you have hilly land you might consider allowing the "A" frame to have more movement.

>Replacing the flat bar with a length of 5/16" chain is also a possibility. It has already been mentioned.

 

[bcp]

The smaller, lower hole may be for a bolt and bushing for use with the quick hitch. Then the top position is correct for the bar.

Bruce

 

[TripleR]

I would be inclined to move the chain from the bottom to top, I can imagine what that deck is going to look like in the future.

 

[amaxwell]

I would be inclined to move the chain from the bottom to top, I can imagine what that deck is going to look like in the future.

I agree . I would flip the bar with the chain end for end, to put the chain at the top and use the bottom hole in the frame ,them use the top hole for the top link.

 

[dusty3030]

I would be inclined to move the chain from the bottom to top, I can imagine what that deck is going to look like in the future.

Yep that would be prudent

 

[LD1]

I would do a full length chain and just forget the flat bar.

First dip or hill (or loading on a trailer) that causes the flat bar to touch the deck, that flat bar is gonna bend.

 

[TerryR]

I agree . I would flip the bar with the chain end for end, to put the chain at the top and use the bottom hole in the frame ,them use the top hole for the top link.

I thought so too, but it looks like it was intended to be mounted with the chain at the rear. There's no place to attach the bar end there.

Terry

 

[TripleR]

I thought so too, but it looks like it was intended to be mounted with the chain at the rear. There's no place to attach the bar end there.

Terry

I'm no whiz bang fabricator, but I'm pretty sure I could find a way and if not I would do what LD1 suggested; might even be the best way to go anyway as tht whole setup looks pretty flimsy and poorly designed.

Actually if it was mine, I'd get the welder out, add two braces in lieu of the single one only mounted to the outside, get a piece of flat stock and make a rotating attachment link like on LP and others, but understand many don't have access to a shop and junk metal pile.

 

[mapper]

I would strongly caution against replacing the top link with chain, it protects the operator from having the mower deck catch or hit an obstacle and flip up against the back of the tractor and operator. It's a lot better to bend a top link than get clobbered by the gear box and drive shaft.

 

[TerryR]

I'm no whiz bang fabricator, but I'm pretty sure I could find a way and if not I would do what LD1 suggested;

No doubt it would be simple for someone with the proper tools. But I was pointing out an obstacle for those like me whose metal fabrication tools are limited to a hacksaw, drill, bench grinder and files.

I'd agree the chain alternative is a good one. That's what came on my 18-year old BushHog Squealer, and it's always worked fine. I've always wondered how others get by with just a little slack in a link like more recent ones have, for example when going across a significant dip or backing up a bank.

Terry

 

[Skidrowe18]

Thanks all! I moved the brace down a hole and low and behold there was the top link connect. Don't know why I didn't think of that before. Since II the brace has a chain at the end by the wheel there is no need for a swivel? Here is a pic after I lowered the bar.
View attachment 440078

What has me concerned more now is how the chain is too close to the clutch. It was mentioned earlier that should be covered and I will be looking into that. I can see bad things happening because of this


Why replace the bar with a chain? How will that be better....

 

[TerryR]

I would strongly caution against replacing the top link with chain, it protects the operator from having the mower deck catch or hit an obstacle and flip up against the back of the tractor and operator. It's a lot better to bend a top link than get clobbered by the gear box and drive shaft.

Really? Has that ever happened? How?

I can see a broken or loose lower link letting the cutter get into the tire and bringing it up, but how can catching the cutter on something cause it to flip high up high enough to be a problem?

Terry