How to break in a new Kubota MX5200

[grclark50]

I have a new MX 5200 and have about 5 hrs on it. Seems to make a loud growling noise when I put pressure on the transmission. Is this normal and is their a proper way to break in a new engine. I was told by the dealer to just use it.

Thanks
grc

 

[art]

I wonder if the loud growling noise might be from straining the hydro at to low of an rpm. You did not say if it was a gear or hydro so I'm only assuming. At 5 hours I'd be using it the way I'd run it the rest of it's life.

 

[grclark50]

Thanks for the reply, my machine is a MX5200 HST.
grc

 

[Gary Fowler]

You should keep at least 1500 RPM on the engine when engaging the HST. My B26 runs best at 2000 RPM- plenty of power but much lower engine noise than at PTO speed (2600 RPM). I cant recall hearing any growling noise though even at 1000 idle speed if I want to move the tractor just a few feet.
Check all the fluid levels and if OK, just use it and hope if something is wrong it breaks prior to warranty running out.

You may want to consult with your dealer. Maybe make a short movie with your smart phone to show the dealer so he can also hear the noise it is making. He may want to have it brought in so he can work on it.

 

[ATP]

What Gary Fowler said and vary your RPM's some during the first many hours and vary the loads... not always heavy loads... this and 50c get you a senior coffee...

 

[wcampbell47]

I recently purchased an L3901 with HST. I traded in a B3200 HST. I was hoping to get away from the HST growl as one or two of the 39's I demo'd did not seem to growl, but that was at low RPM. Both tractors perform best (IMHO) at 1800 to 2000. I have resorted to wearing ear protection with a built in radio. Otherwise love the tractor. I just used the B3200 when bought new. At 1200 hours no oil leaks, still had power ... a great little unit. My projects have become larger so a larger tractor was in order. So far am very happy with FEL performance and PTO power.

 

[k0ua]

I have never heard anything I would call a "growling noise" coming from a hydrostatic transmission... I would be very concerned if I did. Now that said, Hydrostatic transmissions whine. The smaller the tractor the worse the whine. The higher the gear range you are in and when you load the tractor the louder the whine and the poorer the performance.

You do not do work in HI range, only LO and MED ranges. LO range when you need maximum torque and less speed, MED when you need Medium torque and more speed. As an example when pushing over a tree, LO range. When needing to move some distance with a bucket full of materiel, Medium range.
Mowing could be either LO or MED, depending on the terrain and how fast you can move without shaking your kidneys out of your body. HI range is ONLY for transporting the tractor unloaded from place to place, preferably on flat ground. If you can get away with transporting your tractor in HI with a heavy load on it, good for you, Some tractors have more horsepower and torque than others.

But in general if you will follow the guidelines I have outlined for most CUTS or SCUTS you will have less whine, less going into the relief valve on the hydro, and a happier experience. I would be interested in you posting a You-tube video with good sound, to hear what you are hearing. But to me a "growl" is a low frequency sound, and a "whine" is a high frequency sound.

 

[nybirdman]

Medium range should work for most if not all work.High for transport only.Most new HST owners(me included) think more pedal is more power(opposite is true).LESS pedal is more power and less noise in any range.
Both my HST purchased new were a little noisy when new;mostly goes away after some break-in.

 

[grclark50]

Thanks to all for the feedback on my question. Apparently the growling noise I described is actually the whining of the hydro. My previous tractors did not have this noise. I did have the dealer come out and he said the noise is normal however I may have operating at too low rpm. He did say that changing the HDT to Super hydraulic would make a difference because it is thinner oil. When I change oil I may give it a try. Like one of the posts above I did try out the 5200, 4800 with no noise however no load either.

Thanks for the input, it looks like the noise is normal.

grc

 

[Mikejeakins]

What kind of Attachments did you get?

 

[grclark50]

What kind of Attachments did you get?

Kubota had a promo going where you got $1500.00 off on the tractor and one or two implements plus 0 for 60 if you purchased an MX 4800 or 5200. I traded in a 3830 which used the 60in implements so I got a new 72 in box scraper, 84 in blade scraper, a 3 spear bale spear that works with the detachable fel. I also have from previous tractor purchases a chain harrow, 55 gal sprayer, post hole digger, fertilizer spreader, rock rake, bush hog mower, tiller and draw bar trailer ball connector. I also got 0 for 60 on the implements so it didn't hurt as bad. My 60 in scraper and box scraper are for sale.

grc

 

[Mikejeakins]

Sounds like you got a good deal. I've been looking at the MX 5200 also. I would like to get a 3rd function on the loader as well as some rear remotes.

 

[Texasmark]

You need to seat the rings, even if tin plated. How do you do that? Work it hard but watch the temp gauge. When you start getting up at mid range on the temp, back off the load to keep it there or below. With these 100 degree days, that shouldn't be too hard.

Keep rpms up in the PTO region, or close. You need to stay above the peak of the torque curve. On mine PTO is 2400 to 2800 and the torque curve peaks at 1600. Reason for staying up is that when you load the tractor you pull the rpms down somewhat (100 is all mine drops on current max loads, which could go to 260 before I got worried...10%) and as you do the torque rises and the engine keeps tugging. If you are at a low rpm, at or below the peak, when you lug it the rpms and the torque drop and on that a diesel will just crater..................and that is where you put a strain on engine bearings and test your oil's lubricating skills.

That's the way I do it.

 

[grclark50]

You need to seat the rings, even if tin plated. How do you do that? Work it hard but watch the temp gauge. When you start getting up at mid range on the temp, back off the load to keep it there or below. With these 100 degree days, that shouldn't be too hard.

Keep rpms up in the PTO region, or close. You need to stay above the peak of the torque curve. On mine PTO is 2400 to 2800 and the torque curve peaks at 1600. Reason for staying up is that when you load the tractor you pull the rpms down somewhat (100 is all mine drops on current max loads, which could go to 260 before I got worried...10%) and as you do the torque rises and the engine keeps tugging. If you are at a low rpm, at or below the peak, when you lug it the rpms and the torque drop and on that a diesel will just crater..................and that is where you put a strain on engine bearings and test your oil's lubricating skills.

That's the way I do it.

Thank you for that info, from the replies I have been running too low rpm and that is good to know.
Thanks
grc

 

[grclark50]

I thought I got a pretty good deal but I read where a guy got the MX5200 for $27k not sure of the configuration or what came with it but sounds like he got a better deal. Anyway at this point I like the 52, it is much more powerful than my previous 3830 and is also just about as manuverable which is a real plus. The 52 has a lot of extra features above the L series in my opinion. Since my post I have upped the rpms when working the tractor and I believe that has resolved the whining noise problem. When you consider the 0 for 60 it really saves you a lot of cash up front and offsets the depreciation over 5 years vs financing. Kubota tractors and I am sure other brands as well are really holding their value. When I traded in my 3830 on the 5200 I got very close to what I paid for it nine years ago so that helps to offset the continually rising cost of a new tractor but overall not a bad investment if you use the tractor. BTW the dealer sold my 3830 in two days......

 

[Texasmark]

He did say that changing the HDT to Super hydraulic would make a difference because it is thinner oil.
grc

Then you need something with the JM20D rating which is lower viscosity made for HDT applications....aka Kabota. Noises in hydraulic systems are usually cavitation, small bubbles caused by orifice changes or abrupt diameter changes primarily small to larger diameter. In gears it depends on how the gears were cut usually. Helical cut gears are quieter than spur gears.....helical not parallel to axis of rotation as is a spur. Gradually engage as they rotate which assists in reducing noise. Thicker lube tends to reduce gear noises also as the molecules are larger and more insulation is between the surfaces......but it takes more hp and is harder to shift in cold weather.

 

[grclark50]

Then you need something with the JM20D rating which is lower viscosity made for HDT applications....aka Kabota. Noises in hydraulic systems are usually cavitation, small bubbles caused by orifice changes or abrupt diameter changes primarily small to larger diameter. In gears it depends on how the gears were cut usually. Helical cut gears are quieter than spur gears.....helical not parallel to axis of rotation as is a spur. Gradually engage as they rotate which assists in reducing noise. Thicker lube tends to reduce gear noises also as the molecules are larger and more insulation is between the surfaces......but it takes more hp and is harder to shift in cold weather.

Thanks for the feedback Texasmark. From your post are you saying to stick with thicker HDT oil and increase the throttle? Obviously I want to do what is best for the preservation of the tractor. Since I originally asked the question I have increased my rpm substantially when working the tractor and that has helped or I can't hear the whine over the engine noise. I have a personal issue using the tractor at a high rpm although it must be the best practice, not used to running the tractor at the higher rpm. From everything I read that is how they should run at least the newer ones.
grc

 

[grclark50]

Kubota had a promo going where you got $1500.00 off on the tractor and one or two implements plus 0 for 60 if you purchased an MX 4800 or 5200. I traded in a 3830 which used the 60in implements so I got a new 72 in box scraper, 84 in blade scraper, a 3 spear bale spear that works with the detachable fel. I also have from previous tractor purchases a chain harrow, 55 gal sprayer, post hole digger, fertilizer spreader, rock rake, bush hog mower, tiller and draw bar trailer ball connector. I also got 0 for 60 on the implements so it didn't hurt as bad. My 60 in scraper and box scraper are for sale.

grc

Got my bale spears yesterday, what a great system. Previously I had a bale spear that connected to the front of the bucket edge and was chained on. The skid steer detachable bale spear is night and day better all around. Really happy with it.
grc

 

[Texasmark]

My tractor is rated at 2600 rpm. The factory adjusted governor on the pump is set to 2800. When I am working mine pretty good, the difference in 2500 and 2800 in terms of rpm drop in percent with the load is quite different. I have dropped the rpm by 11% but the loaded rpm vs implement up rpm varies more like 50% more drop at the lower rpms.....like just the other day I was running 2500 and dropping 150 (one and one half tick marks), so I upped it to WOT and it dropped less than one division (100 rpm per tick mark). I know the torque is falling from 1600 but not very fast so I don't know why i did better. May-be my ground contact efficiency, be it the tires or the ability of the cultivator sweeps to bust through the dirt. Fuel consumption is spec'd at .046 gal/hr/hp used and apparently is constant (linear) so I'm not worrying about that.

 

[grclark50]

My tractor is rated at 2600 rpm. The factory adjusted governor on the pump is set to 2800. When I am working mine pretty good, the difference in 2500 and 2800 in terms of rpm drop in percent with the load is quite different. I have dropped the rpm by 11% but the loaded rpm vs implement up rpm varies more like 50% more drop at the lower rpms.....like just the other day I was running 2500 and dropping 150 (one and one half tick marks), so I upped it to WOT and it dropped less than one division (100 rpm per tick mark). I know the torque is falling from 1600 but not very fast so I don't know why i did better. May-be my ground contact efficiency, be it the tires or the ability of the cultivator sweeps to bust through the dirt. Fuel consumption is spec'd at .046 gal/hr/hp used and apparently is constant (linear) so I'm not worrying about that.

I am not sure I understood all that but you have some detailed measurements. I have learned that I need to run a faster rpm than I am used to but that is normal.

Thanks for your input you have interesting info.
grc