Farm Pro 2430 not moving

[detel]

Hello,
I have a Farm Pro 2430 that does not move regardless of what gear you have it in. High, low, 2 or 4 WD, it doesn't move. I lifted the front end off of the ground with the bucket and tried the 4WD to see if I could at least get the front wheels to spin but no luck. It almost feels like there is a brake stuck!?!? I am waiting on a new fuel line that has sprung a leak and as soon as I get that on, I will need some advice on what to do next. Clutch adjustment? Rear brakes seized? The tractor ran when it was parked 2 years ago but when we went to move it this year, no movement. Thank you in advance for your advice!

 

[Soundguy]

brake stuck??

I've yet to see a barke hold back a tractor.

that said, if it was a brake stuck, and you let out the clutch, the engine either stalls, or the wheels move.

so are you telling us the engine stalls since you think it is a stuck brake?

does the pto spin?

will the pto spin while you have it in gear trying to move?

is it a straight gear tranny or something mor ecomplicated like a shuttle shift or HST tranny?

 

[detel]

Thank you for your reply. Nothing happens when I let out the clutch. Yes, the PTO will engage and spin. I have High/Low 8 forward, 2 reverse.

 

[Soundguy]

If the pto spins, when clutch not pressed, in gear and not moving, I'd be checking the granny fill cap and see if you can see gears move in the granny, if yes, check pinion, ring gear, bolts, etc

 

[detel]

Thanks! As soon as I get the fuel lines delivered and on, I will see if I can see the gears moving.

 

[Affordable]

Check to make sure the High/ low lever is in one or the other,

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[detel]

Thank you Tommy. I checked both the High/low and the 4W/2W lever to make sure they were in engaged or at least in the position where they should be engaged. Once I got the tractor running to where I could check the drive, my fuel delivery line busted so I shut her down. I received my parts yesterday, hydro lines for the FEL which fit perfectly and the fuel line which does not fit. So now I am on a mission to see what the PSI is on the fuel injector pump. The line I received for my TY385I was to short. I tried to straighten the bends out on the line thinking that it would then fit, wrong! I am thinking that maybe I can cut the line and add flex hose to get the proper distance to each injector. I have not yet found the proper size line to fit my tractor. Thoughts?

 

[Soundguy]

If it is a line from the pump to an injector, they are high pressure lines. I would not union them.

 

[detel]

Thanks for the advice, Soundguy! I was able to find the correct injector line from Circle G and ordered it today. Once I get this baby running, I will have to figure out why it won't move.

 

[Soundguy]

Let us know what you find

 

[detel]

Fuel line installed and no leaks. While the tractor is running, I can have it in gear but it will not move. My PTO spins when engaged. I use the FEL to prop up the front wheels and engage the 4wd without any movements of the wheels. Hmmm, wondering if I need to check the clutches out to see if they need adjustments?

 

[greg_g]

Even when disengaged, your PTO stub will spin from parasitic forces internal to the drivetrain. Or are you saying it spins with enough torque to - say - run a bush hog? If no, disengage - and apply pressure to the stub with a piece of 2x4. If that's enough to stop the stub from spinning it's normal parasitic force - and your clutchpack could still be bad. But if you can spin a bushhog but not move the tractor in any direction/any gear, that takes troubleshooting in another direction.

//greg//

 

[detel]

Greg, I can engage the PTO and it will spin. Disengage it and it stops. I am getting slight movement forward and backwards when in idle speed. Give it some pedal and it does nothing. Braced up the right side FEL and removed the bracket. I now need to know what to check for. I see the pto and clutches but not really sure what to do from this point.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Greg, I can engage the PTO and it will spin. Disengage it and it stops. I am getting slight movement forward and backwards when in idle speed. Give it some pedal and it does nothing. Braced up the right side FEL and removed the bracket. I now need to know what to check for. I see the pto and clutches but not really sure what to do from this point.

Your looking for a gap. When you step on the clutch, through a series of rods it connects to a fork that sits across the input shaft to the transmission. That fork pushes on a bearing which pushes on three fingers on the center of the clutch, which causes it to release. So you step on the pedal, the fork moves toward the engine, pushing the bearing toward the engine, releasing the clutch. When you are not pushing on the clutch there needs to be a gap between the bearing and the fingers. The gap needs to be 0.1 inch, a tenth of an inch, 2.5 mm.

If you look in the inspection port while pushing on the clutch you should be able to see the fork move and the bearing move and the fingers move.

As the clutch wears, the gap decreases, the clutch needs to be adjusted periodically to restore the gap. If the clutch is allowed to wear all the way until the gap is gone the bearing will push on the fingers even if you don't have your foot on the pedal, and the clutch will be released all the time. This will lead to accelerated wear of the clutch and bearing.

With luck your clutch and bearing still have enough life that adjusting the gap gets everything working again. First step is to verify that this is indeed the problem.

This page has some good pictures to help you get organized:
Jinma Dealer, Wood Chipper , Compact Jinma Tractors

 

[detel]

I did see the fork, bearing and fingers move while having the clutch pedal depressed. I will check my gaps when I get home from work tonight.
Thank you!

 

[greg_g]

There should also be a 2mm gap between the two clutches (that's why it's called a clutchpack). That gap should be achieved before you set the throwout bearing gap. But keep in mind that I'm stating this under the assumption that Foton and Jinma use similar clutchpacks. To make sure, can you scan and upload the clutch diagram from your owner manual?

//greg//

 

[detel]

I don't have a manual but I can take a photo through the inspection hole, if that will help?

 

[detel]

I was able to do some adjustments and now have more movement then I have previously had. I barely press down on the pedal to disengage the clutch. I believe that more adjustment is needed on the clutches.

 

[detel]

How does the clutch system work in the Farm Pro 2430? By the looks of the above photo, does it appear that I have no adjustment left?

 

[Affordable]

The 2- double nuts are your PTO clutch adjustments, you need to re-adjust those so that you have 0.30 thousands under the big nut, make sure all 3-are the same, your main clutch adjustment is under the 3-clutch fingers( You will have to grind a wrench down to fit the nut under the finger it will need to be thin),you will need to take the linkage rod off your clutch arm coming out of the bell housing, adjust each one of those 3- fingers so that you have 1/8" clearance from the throw out bearing to the face of the clutch finger, make sure all 3- are the same 1/8". Then reattach your clutch arm adjusting the turnbuckle so that you have 1" of free play that you can push with your fingers.


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company