my "my first tractor" thread (B series)

[MattEffinCameron]

hello there...so I just got my first tractor ever...and I have a lot of simple/dumb questions about how to use it properly so as not to break it and I figured I would start a single thread to track all of these. I have learned a ton through my shopping/research period from these forums and look forward to all your feedback in this thread as well!

so my questions right now...

When starting the tractor, I know you turn the key and wait for the glow plug light to come on...how long should I let it stay lit before actually starting the tractor?

Should I let it idle at low RPM at all before I drive it out of the barn and start doing whatever im doing or is that not necessary?

What do you recommend or find yourself using for RPMs when just driving around?

When doing work, or going from point A to point B, does it matter what gear you are in or is it only a matter of how much traction/speed you want?

When doing FEL work, do the engine RPMs matter? Do you get more power in the FEL at higher RPMs or once the engine is on and the hydraulic pump is running, regardless of rpm, do you have max FEL power?

Are there any guidelines around 4WD use? Like for example, if I leave it on (forget that I have it engaged as I did yesterday) and drive on pavement...is that bad? Or do I just need to expect more difficult turning with 4WD engaged? Do I need to only use 4WD in Low/Med? At low/med speeds?

 

[nybirdman]

On my Kubota;the glow plug light stays on for about 30 seconds or so when the switch is turned on.I assume its HST;I wouldn't idle in a closed building too long(fumes)back out and let warm up for five minutes or so.(longer if its below 30degrees F.
I set my RPM's at 1500-1800 for general use;lower is not good for the engine.More power at higher RPM's for all uses.
If you have hills;leave it in 4WD when off road;pavement go to 2WD.You can be in 4WD at any speed in any range.4WD on hills will give you 4 wheel braking.
Gear(range) only determines power/speed or lack of;nothing to do with traction.
Also remember with HST;more pedal down is less power and more speed ,kind
of opposite of a truck or car.
Which model and what transmission do you have?

 

[flusher]

Glow plug light--I'd wait 5-10 seconds in cold weather before starting.

Idling after startup--yes in cold weather. Not that important in hot weather.

Idling before shutdown--it's advisable to reduce RPM to idle for 30 seconds or so before shutdown.

I generally select a gear that gives me the ground speed I want with the engine turning at or near the PTO RPM.

Point A to B: gear selection depends on what you're doing. For plowing it's one of your lowest gears. For discing you want ground speed about 5 mph so select the gear that gives you this speed. For mowing with a brush hog, you select the gear that gives you the ground speed you think you need with the engine turning at PTO RPM.

FEL work: hydraulic pump RPM is matched to engine RPM usually at the PTO RPM (generally in the 1800-2000 RPM range). Pump hydraulic flow (gallons/minute) is directly proportional to pump RPM. You need high flow if you want the hydraulic cylinders on your FEL to operate quickly. Typical tractor hydraulic flow is in the 5-15 gallon/minute range. Skid steer equipment generally can produce twice this flow rate.

4WD: it's better to use 2WD when doing FEL work on material that's resting on concrete. When you push the FEL bucket into the pile, you'll reach a point where the tractor's forward motion stops and you'll want all four wheels to spin freely. This works fine on dirt. On concrete you can bust up a 4WD transfer box if the front wheels are not able to spin.

Good luck

 

[MattEffinCameron]

great info! it is a B2920 with HST

 

[jeff9366]

Are there any guidelines around 4WD use? Like for example, if I leave it on and drive on pavement...is that bad? Or do I just need to expect more difficult turning with 4WD engaged? Do I need to only use 4WD in Low/Med? At low/med speeds?

Four wheel drive should always be engaged EXCEPT when you are on a hard surface. HST range is immaterial. (EXCEPTION: 2-WD ON TURF.)

Tractors only have brakes on the rear wheels. In order to have four wheel braking you need to have 4-WD engaged.

If you are moving down a slope, so weight has transferred forward, and you do NOT have 4-WD engaged it can be very exciting; TOO EXCITING. You will be yelling whoa, WHOA and holding onto the steering wheel tightly.

If you have 4-WD engaged on hard surfaces the tires scrub and wear relatively quickly, that is the only 'damage'.

 

[Baby Grand]

I use 2WD when I need to turn and don't want to tear up the surface - like on the lawn ... especially after it thaws out or after a rain.
I use 2WD if I'm on the flat and don't expect I'll need 4WD.
Then, when I realize I've been overly ambitious, I can shift into 4WD and extract myself.

 

[McREBEL]

Congratulations. Nice tractor.

From some of your questions, especially the first two, I assume you do not have the owner's manual. It offers specific guidelines on the glow plug time and warm up time based on temperature. It also recommends warm up RPM which I can't remember exactly but is just a little above idle. My manual is not where I can get to it at the moment or I would give you more specifics. It would be worthwhile to get an owner's manual and if you have a loader there is a separate manual for it. As an example of what I do, if it is 35 F I would hit the glow plug for 3-5 seconds then let it warm up at a few hundred rpms above idle for about 5 minutes.

 

[MattEffinCameron]

I actually do have a manual for the tractor..though maybe not for the FEL. I had flipped through it reading different sections but I guess I should make it a cover to cover read

 

[McREBEL]

Ha! Yeah, it would be a worthwhile read even if some of it will make your eyes glaze over. I would recommend the separate FEL manual too.

When just driving around I typically have mine in M range and I stay between 1800-2000 rpms most of the time. H range is mostly only used for when I get out on the public road. L range with high rpms when digging or pulling something heavy. 2WD on hard surfaces where traction is good. 4WD anytime four wheel breaking might be needed (slopes). I mostly stay in 2WD unless the extra traction is needed or 4WD breaking will be needed. On loose or slick surfaces it would be fine to leave it in 4WD all the time.

"Like for example, if I leave it on (forget that I have it engaged as I did yesterday) and drive on pavement...is that bad?" Bad. The few times you do it accidentally probably doesn't hurt much (I hope not anyway).

"Do I need to only use 4WD in Low/Med? At low/med speeds?" 4WD can be used in any range

 

[McREBEL]

And anytime you start to mash on the HST pedal check to make sure you don't have the parking brake set. Is that from personal experience you might ask. Yes....yes it is.

I have made it a habit to just tap the brakes (this releases the parking brake) before I mash the HST pedal.

 

[motownbrowne]

And anytime you start to mash on the HST pedal check to make sure you don't have the parking brake set. Is that from personal experience you might ask. Yes....yes it is.

I have made it a habit to just tap the brakes (this releases the parking brake) before I mash the HST pedal.

Yes, this is important. Another tip I picked up from here was to not just lightly engage the parking brake. Really step down and engage the brake fully. That way when you forget to disengage the parking brake the tractor tells you about it in much more certain terms. If you just put it on a little ways it's much easier to drive around not realizing it's on.

 

[MattEffinCameron]

how about the clutch? do I only need to use that when engaging and disengaging the PTO?

 

[jeff9366]

how about the clutch? do I only need to use that when engaging and disengaging the PTO?

For Pete's sake, READ YOUR OPERATOR'S MANUAL.

Whether or not you clutch varies by Kubota model and year.

 

[McREBEL]

For Pete's sake, READ YOUR OPERATOR'S MANUAL.

This ^, and not only for Pete's sake but for your tractor's sake also. And for your sake so you aren't kicking yourself later because you didn't.

 

[MattEffinCameron]

the manual states:
Because of the safety devices, the engine will not start
except when the PTO gear shift lever is placed in the
"OFF" position, the speed control pedal is placed in the
"NEUTRAL" position, and the clutch pedal is
disengaged.

Is this different than the clutch being disengaged? Clutch disengaged means the pedal is depressed...but does clutch pedal disengaged mean pedal is not depressed?

 

[MattEffinCameron]

Also for any other beginners looking a this thread it looks like you are supposed to use the clutch also when changing gears or engaging/disengaging 4WD.

 

[nybirdman]

Depress the clutch pedal to start;not necessary for gear range changes or 4WD in/out.Come to a full stop for range changes and 4WD in/out.You can use the clutch for these actions if you like;it wouldn't hurt on a brand new machine for a while.
PTO has to be disengaged and you sitting in the seat to start(seat safety switch).
In the manual:if you are running a PTO stationary implement(I.E. chipper or generator) there is a procedure for running while not in the seat.

 

[jeff9366]

Sometimes there can be some pressure in the drive train which makes 4-WD resistant to engagement, usually when you have stopped with the front wheels turned. You can relieve this pressure by depressing the clutch pedal.

New HST tractors do not have clutch pedals. At least with Kubota, the division between HST with/without clutch pedals roughly corresponds with Tier III, Tier IV changeover. With no clutch pedal you relieve resistance by lightly pressing lower part of HST pedal in reverse direction.

My former B3300SU HST had a clutch pedal. My new L3560 HST does not have a clutch pedal. My fine Kubota mechanic maintained clutch pedal on the B3300SU HST was there as a marketing feature and for no other reason.

 

[McREBEL]

the manual states:
Because of the safety devices, the engine will not start
except when the PTO gear shift lever is placed in the
"OFF" position, the speed control pedal is placed in the
"NEUTRAL" position, and the clutch pedal is
disengaged.


Is this different than the clutch being disengaged? Clutch disengaged means the pedal is depressed...but does clutch pedal disengaged mean pedal is not depressed?

clutch pedal disengaged = pedal pressed

 

[McREBEL]

Also for any other beginners looking a this thread it looks like you are supposed to use the clutch also when changing gears or engaging/disengaging 4WD.

Correct. Is it possible to change range and/or switch between 2 and 4WD without pressing the clutch? Yes, but it is more difficult and the manual says to press the clutch. So I press the clutch.