Satoh 370D from scrap yard

[joeblack5]

Hello Folks,

Just bought a 370D from a local scrap yard as a project and want to try to get it operating again. It is the 2 cylinder with a KE 70 engine. No PTO reverser. It will need to run a mower at a two acre property.
It sat outside for 4 years. Missing the starter motor and all gear levers are stuck.

I have removed the transmission cover and found the transmission empty but no broken gears. Some of the light corrosion on some gears. The cover with gear selector has some corrosion. I have disassembled and cleaned it and got it sliding again. Probably would like to replace the conical spring and selector balls.

Then I removed the injectors and poured WD40 in the pre chambers. After a couple of days I was able to put a socket on the front pulley and got it loose.

I am now ready to buy a new starter motor but like to confirm that it needs 9 teeth?
Can anybody confirm that?

Thank you all for the information that got me to this point.

Regards J

 

[PILOON]

Welcome to TBN
Just hang in as there are a couple of members that specialize in Satoh and Mitsubishi parts that will respond.

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you Piloon,

It seems that parts are not to easy to get. The starter shows up for about $145. Just wanted to be sure that the advertised 9 teeth will actually fit.

I am also wondering if I should pull the head and see how the cylinder / valves and pistons look before I try to start it. I will have to look for a head gasket and price.

Thank you,
Later,
J

 

[PILOON]

Not an expert but do read a lot.
If you pull that head you may just discover that a head gasket might cost as much or more than that starter. (if you can find one) I'd be tempted to fire her up and decide later, besides a compression check would be the normal first step.

Did read somewhere that the 2 cyl gasket is rare or non existent.

 

[joeblack5]

That is what i am afraid of. I found one for $ 57 but that does not mean it is actually available. Put an e-mail in to smallimporttractor to see if they have it.
The motor is loose but still has two heavy spots. If I can pull the head for $57 then I will do that because it will give me a lot of information before I potentially damage the cylinder walls with a broken ring.

I have a glow plug compression adapter for my mercedes. See if it is the same thread.
The injectors looked very clean and I can find no wear on the gears. So may be it is low hours. Just wishful thinking here.

The transmission oil was gone and I noticed water and some oil leaking out of the 4x4 adapter box under the transmission. Did not see a crack but the oil must have disappeared somehow.

Later J

 

[joeblack5]

I bought a new head gasket from NCW (866) 582-1172 for $ 57 + shipping. They also had piston and rings normal and oversize available in stock. The other quote I received for a head gasket was $144. May be there is a quality difference. NCW had different style rings , something to remember. Check their website. So I will be pulling the head and check the valves and valve guides for wear.

Later J

 

[DonE0929]

I bought one out of a field with a pretty big tree growing out of the cylinder. The owner took the head off for service and then never touched it again and lost the head. It came with the reverse rotation finish mower. I purchased a Ke70 (RUNNING) from someone on this form and it has been great for more than 10 years now. I was going to do a full restore a while ago, but that plan fell through. It's still a little ugly, but other than a hydraulic leak, a lower radiator hose and blowing out the freeze plug this winter ( my fault ) its been a great tractor for us. wish I had a loader for it. You'll be happy when you get her going.

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you for the encouragement. Will see if I have some time tomorrow to pull the head. I noticed that the repair manuals are very expensive. Is there anybody that wants to share?

Thank you,
later J

 

[DonE0929]

I have a manual..... it was expensive... to be honest I was expecting a lot more than what is in it. Maybe it is fine for someone that has more general knowledge than I did. I had an odd hydraulic leak and the dang part that was causing the problem wasn't even in the manual. I still don't know what the thing is called, but I stopped it from leaking... lol. The good folks here are way better than the manual. The yahoo group is good also... I have not visited it in a while though.

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you for making me aware of a yahoo group. I will try to become a member there as well.

Later J

 

[jhnpldng]

I needed a starter solenoid for mine and initially all I found was complete starters for $170 but that wasn't going to work for me. Below is the process I went through,some of which may help you with yours.

STARTER: 1.6kW
Amazon and Ebay search for MT180 starter bring up M2T50381, (MM409410)
1985-1990 Case 235, 245 & 255 Tractors with Mitsubishi K3 Engines
CASE Ag & Industrial

A search for M2T50381 brought up woodauto.com of the UK. In business since 1929 they give a list of all the parts of the starter, ie solenoid, caps, brushes etc, along with corresponding part #s. The number for the solenoid is M371X33071.
A search on ebay for that number brings up plenty of solenoids for $20-25

One of the numbers that the UK folks have for the brushes is M648C10371. That brought up wilsonautoelectric.com and they give cross reference number for the brushes though they don't seem to sell them. They have a "find a store" link and that brought up local chain auto parts stores but I doubt they could get the brushes. At least not cheap. Off to search some more.
One of the cross reference numbers for the brush set is Standard Brand CX7. Rockauto has them for $5.52
ecatalog.wilsonautoelectric.com
Being that I like Standard brand, I go back to wilson and cross reference the solenoid which turns out to be SS313 which rockauto also has for $28.79 as a closeout. Unfortunately, the brushes and solenoid ship from two diff locations. I don't really need brushes so I will be buying the $22 solenoid on ebay. Better than paying $170-400 for the whole starter

As it turned out, looking at buyer's guides on the parts sites, the solenoid was also used in early 80s Mitsubishi Tredia, automobile and the entire starter on a slew of forklifts as was the entire K3C engine. I also did find the entire starter for $70 but hey, if I can buy individual parts to rebuild my original Mitsubishi starter casting then I'll never need a complete starter. Let alone a $2-400 unit.

MM401600 seems to be your starter and the number should be cast into the casing if it's still the original mitsu case. Woods has that number listed and one of the alternate numbers/crossover (M4T14674) indeed has all the bits and pieces listed. (all Mitsubishi #s) I don't see anything popping up off the bat on wilson but wood has a LOT of crossover numbers so between the two and general web search, ebay, amazon, rockauto etc, if you spent enough time, you could probably whittle the several hundred dollar starter down to a reasonable price or find individual parts for it. I see one site has a slightly rusty rebuilt unit for almost $450, such a deal.

Good Luck, John

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you John. Unfortunately I do not have the starter.

I found somewhere on this forum by whiskeyjr.

quote" Default Re: Satoh S-370 starter repair / replacement questions

The exact part number for the correct 1.2kw starter motor from autozone is: 16524.

The housing does need to swap with your old starter, as the reman unit that is available has threads cut into the bolt holes and will not allow attachment to the bell housing. If there is any interest, I can put pictures of this process on this website.

When I took my dead starter to a reputable local reman shop, I was quoted 250$ to rebuild.

The reman unit from autozone was 55$ plus a 10$ core.

end of quote.


I like the price. Anybody know if I can drill out the holes so it will bolt up?

Later J

 

[PILOON]

Make yourself a cardboard template and compare it at the Autozone shop.*
As to a core sometimes they accept any core you might have on hand.(GM. Ford etc)
Some are picky and want the exact same.

*If the pitch is good don't drill, ream them out as a drill can catch and crack the flange.
While strong for the purpose those castings can be brittle.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mitsubishi-satoh/217103-370d-beaver-parts-cross-reference.html

You will need to drill out the threaded hole in the starter flange but it's easy to do - the metal is soft like aluminum.

 

[davesl708]

Hello Folks,

Just bought a 370D from a local scrap yard as a project and want to try to get it operating again. It is the 2 cylinder with a KE 70 engine. No PTO reverser. It will need to run a mower at a two acre property.
It sat outside for 4 years. Missing the starter motor and all gear levers are stuck.

I have removed the transmission cover and found the transmission empty but no broken gears. Some of the light corrosion on some gears. The cover with gear selector has some corrosion. I have disassembled and cleaned it and got it sliding again. Probably would like to replace the conical spring and selector balls.

Then I removed the injectors and poured WD40 in the pre chambers. After a couple of days I was able to put a socket on the front pulley and got it loose.

I am now ready to buy a new starter motor but like to confirm that it needs 9 teeth?
Can anybody confirm that?

Thank you all for the information that got me to this point.

Regards J

Joeblack5. You have taken on a major project. With the trans having no oil and some rust I suspect the bearings are also rusted and will not last long when you get it running. As to the engine, if it has been sitting for years outside I think a teardown is the prudent course.
The goal is to get a functioning tractor rather than a show piece. Now is the time to make sure the internals are in working order to avoid a teardown later.

Yes parts are going to be a problem. I would pre-source the parts you think you will need to be sure they are available and you have a better idea of the cost of this project.

Good luck. Hope you post some pics of the progress.

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you all for the help, advise and encouragement with this project.

I have ordered the starter from autozone 16524.
I will remove the head but leave water pump and exhaust attached as to avoid more gaskets to be replaced. If possible i will reuse the old gasket to do a compression and possible run test.
The oil leak on the bottom turns out to be a missing plug at the rear side of the 4x4 shaft. i do not know what kind of plug is supposed to be in there. It looks a needle bearing that is visible from the back of the 4x4 box under the transmission.
I do not have a manual yet but assume that I can drop that box with the 4x4 gear and forward drive shaft so that I can inspect the corrosion situation in there.
Stupid that I have not removed the drain plug out of the 4x4 box yet to see if oil or water is coming out.
Anything complicated going on if I am going to remove the top of the transmission that is under the seat?
Any max size for images?


Thank you all.
later j

 

[PILOON]

Removing a transmission top is no problem however best to shift to neutral first so you are sure to assemble correctly. You want to check for bent forks and excessive wear at the shifter gates where the shifter arm engages,
The gates are probably brass and easily rectified if badly worn. (bit of brazing?) It is not unknown for worn gates to allow 2 gears to get engaged and lock a tranny.
In neutral, PTO not engaged you should be able to manually rotate gears to check for chips and or missing teeth.
Probably the PTO is 3 speed with 2 neutral positions.
Willing to bet the tranny is in good shape.

 

[joeblack5]

Sorry, may be some confusion here.
I removed the transmission top with the shifter ( gear selector) . All gears look good and rotate freely. When I push the tractor by hand everything moves as supposed. The forks look good, I would say almost new. There is no brass. The transmission is not synchronized. The two forks fall directly into grooves in the gear. There seems to be no wear in the grooves where the forks fall in. Am i missing a brass part here?
With gates you mean that only one gear can be selected at the time? That system is built in the cover. It was rusted so that the gear lever was stuck. I have to replace the selector balls 3 pieces.

What i meant to say was the next cover that can be accessed when the seat and toolbox are removed. It holds the hydraulics for the 3pnt I am in the hope that I can inspect the final gears, differential and 4x4 mechanism from the top.

Thank you,regards.
later J

 

[Inspector507]

You might try Len Sheaffer here
He may have parts for a Satoh

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you,
i will keep Len Sheaffer's address for the future.

Regards
later J