Ford Model 101 3 Bottom Plow

[bindian]

This is a great plow. I have had mine for many years. I added a Gauge wheel on the left side. Still many parts out there for them I hope these photo's load.

Dave,
I agree it is a great plow. Can you send me several photos of different views of the mount for your rolling landside? I think my mount has been bent out of position. Also, how about some better photos of your gauge wheel?
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Here's a better example of Ford Dearborn Red. Ford Red/New Holland Red is darker. The 101 was almost certainly blue but it is possible a very few were red. The early two bottom Ford Dearborn plows were this color red while the similar looking Ferguson was Ferguson Gray.

6dogs,
I think I have been using International Red. It's the closest I could find to match the RED on my Mahindra. Mahindra's are a direct descendant from International tractors. Pretty close to Dodge RED also. What brand of paint are you painting on your impliments. I loved TSC's Magic paint's finish after spraying and it's ease of applying. Yet, two years later........I'm not so impressed with the finish. It got dull real fast.
hugs, Brandi

 

[sixdogs]

6dogs,
I think I have been using International Red. It's the closest I could find to match the RED on my Mahindra. Mahindra's are a direct descendant from International tractors. Pretty close to Dodge RED also. What brand of paint are you painting on your impliments. I loved TSC's Magic paint's finish after spraying and it's ease of applying. Yet, two years later........I'm not so impressed with the finish. It got dull real fast.
hugs, Brandi

Brandi--the cheapest and best paint is the dealer's paint. Think about it---they have the greatest interest in keeping their product looking nice. Majic doesn't impress me.

The best Ford paint comes from Ford, IH from Case/IH, Kubota from Kubota, JD from JD, etc. If you can find acrylic enamel, that the best readily available for a good balance of price and quality product. I thin with acetone for fast drying but be careful as it is HIGHLY flammable.

Here's Case IH Red after 6 or 7 years outside in the hot sun. Worth note is that it's cut out of a Ford 101 moldboard.








I've written lots on quality dealer ag paint and the $25 Harbor Freight paint gun. It's the best combo based on price and quality balance. Ask anything and I can probably help. I paint and restore a lot of ag equip--read my old threads.

Here's a couple.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...building-harragator-spike-harrow-project.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ild-thread-brillion-cultimulcher-paint-2.html

Here's the can of Ford Rouge red although your plow was likely blue. Factory Ford blue is attractive. Not everything has to be red...:laughing::laughing:

 

[davethegundoctor]

Dave,
I agree it is a great plow. Can you send me several photos of different views of the mount for your rolling landside? I think my mount has been bent out of position. Also, how about some better photos of your gauge wheel?
hugs, Brandi

I can when the snow melts - like May 1 - sorry

Dave

 

[bindian]

Brandi--the cheapest and best paint is the dealer's paint. Think about it---they have the greatest interest in keeping their product looking nice. Majic doesn't impress me.

The best Ford paint comes from Ford, IH from Case/IH, Kubota from Kubota, JD from JD, etc. If you can find acrylic enamel, that the best readily available for a good balance of price and quality product. I thin with acetone for fast drying but be careful as it is HIGHLY flammable.

Here's Case IH Red after 6 or 7 years outside in the hot sun. Worth note is that it's cut out of a Ford 101 moldboard.

I've written lots on quality dealer ag paint and the $25 Harbor Freight paint gun. It's the best combo based on price and quality balance. Ask anything and I can probably help. I paint and restore a lot of ag equip--read my old threads.

Here's a couple.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...building-harragator-spike-harrow-project.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ild-thread-brillion-cultimulcher-paint-2.html

Here's the can of Ford Rouge red although your plow was likely blue. Factory Ford blue is attractive. Not everything has to be red...:laughing::laughing:

My plow is blue. I will repaint it blue. Blue and RED looks okay together. RED and green doesn't look good together.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I took the end of the left lift arm off today and ground down the ball. I didn't grind off much material. I now have enough room for a 3/16th inch quick lock pin.
hugs, Brandi

 

[sixdogs]

I took the end of the left lift arm off today and ground down the ball. I didn't grind off much material. I now have enough room for a 3/16th inch quick lock pin. View attachment 415746View attachment 415745
hugs, Brandi

I recall seeing many of these plows with the end like yours. The end wasn't very beefy and likely was torn off by the plow flopping around from the three point arms being too loose. So keep them sort of snug and when time is slow think of how to have a stub end welded on in case it breaks again. I do recall some with the stub arm cut off and a plate welded on with the stub welded to that.

 

[bindian]

I recall seeing many of these plows with the end like yours. The end wasn't very beefy and likely was torn off by the plow flopping around from the three point arms being too loose. So keep them sort of snug and when time is slow think of how to have a stub end welded on in case it breaks again. I do recall some with the stub arm cut off and a plate welded on with the stub welded to that.

I'll have a new pin welded on if it breaks off.
hugs, Brandi

 

[davethegundoctor]

Those quick hitch pins should not be used. Dirt will hit them and they fall out. A bolt with self locking nut the best.

 

[allen in texas]

Those quick hitch pins should not be used. Dirt will hit them and they fall out. A bolt with self locking nut the best.

I am assuming you are talking about the "LINCHPINS" that Brandi is using. If so, to each his own but I disagree. I have never had a pin fall out, all the 'real farmers' use them around here on equipment that is not attached using a quick hitch of some sort and their equipment is huge and heavy. Linchpins are common practice.
AS much as I change implements I would hate to know that I had to have a wrench to disconnect and reconnect.

 

[davethegundoctor]

I am assuming you are talking about the "LINCHPINS" that Brandi is using. If so, to each his own but I disagree. I have never had a pin fall out, all the 'real farmers' use them around here on equipment that is not attached using a quick hitch of some sort and their equipment is huge and heavy. Linchpins are common practice.
AS much as I change implements I would hate to know that I had to have a wrench to disconnect and reconnect.

You will learn the hard way. The new pin are made in China and fall a part all the time. It's your call.

 

[allen in texas]

You will learn the hard way. The new pin are made in China and fall a part all the time. It's your call.

Well Like I said, I've never had one fall out. and never had one fall apart. I guess I (and everyone else I know that farms) have been lucky. I guess it's safe to assume that you have experienced the failure of the pins. If so, you are the only one I know of. Sorry for your bad luck. A bolt and nut as you state will stop that problem for sure.

 

[sixdogs]

I am assuming you are talking about the "LINCHPINS" that Brandi is using. If so, to each his own but I disagree. I have never had a pin fall out, all the 'real farmers' use them around here on equipment that is not attached using a quick hitch of some sort and their equipment is huge and heavy. Linchpins are common practice.
AS much as I change implements I would hate to know that I had to have a wrench to disconnect and reconnect.

Bindians plow is a unique situation in that the stub end apparently broke off and there is no room to get a normal click pin in. The only option is to get a small diameter bolt in and since the bolt is heat treated it will be stronger than the click pin. That's just how I understand it.

 

[allen in texas]

I understood that the implication was that ALL linchpins are bad. Perhaps I understand wrong. I also thought her problem was the the Cat 2 swivel ball was to wide to allow it to go all the way up on the Cat 1 Pins on the plow and therefore, the reason that she ground the swivel ball a bit. I'll go back and re-read.

WEll I re-read and I found nothing about something broken other than the shear bolts. I did find that Brandi used a 3/16 pin. I think the normal size is 7/16. I say I think because I just know what size they are when I buy them. I just look at the pins in the package and don't worry about the size.

Anyway, carry on gents.

 

[bindian]

I understood that the implication was that ALL linchpins are bad. Perhaps I understand wrong. I also thought her problem was the the Cat 2 swivel ball was to wide to allow it to go all the way up on the Cat 1 Pins on the plow and therefore, the reason that she ground the swivel ball a bit. I'll go back and re-read.

WEll I re-read and I found nothing about something broken other than the shear bolts. I did find that Brandi used a 3/16 pin. I think the normal size is 7/16. I say I think because I just know what size they are when I buy them. I just look at the pins in the package and don't worry about the size.

Anyway, carry on gents.

Allen,
You are right. Nothing broke. Just my Cat 2 balls don't have enough room on the Cat. 1 pin to install a standard size lynch pin. Only other thing I ever hitched up on was my brush hog.........and I requested Cat 2 pins when I bought it. I do need to adjust the stabilizers to make it hard for a ball to slide off a pin if the lynch pin shears or "falls apart or gets hit by dirt and knocked off".
hugs, Brandi

 

[allen in texas]

Allen,
You are right. Nothing broke. Just my Cat 2 balls don't have enough room on the Cat. 1 pin to install a standard size lynch pin. Only other thing I ever hitched up on was my brush hog.........and I requested Cat 2 pins when I bought it. I do need to adjust the stabilizers to make it hard for a ball to slide off a pin if the lynch pin shears or "falls apart or gets hit by dirt and knocked off".
hugs, Brandi

Cool! Hope you have fun plowin'. I know I do.

 

[GreenWannabe]

Hi, Brandi.

AGCO lists a couple of Cat 2 pins for Cat 1 implements on page 11 in their linkage parts catalog, here: http://www.agcoparts.com/Library/upload/AGCO10005_LinkageCatalog_Pages_WEB1.pdf. With those pins, you won't need any bushings.

My son-in-law and I picked up a clean Ford 101 14 inch 2 bottom plow at auction a couple of years ago, but haven't used it yet. It was complete with rolling landside, both coulters, trip beams, and new shares, shins, and moldboards. It looks like a new one, but will probably need to be taken apart to clean the paint out of all the joints that are supposed to move for adjustment. I thought I had a picture, but can't seem to find it.

Good luck with your plowing.

Fred

 

[bindian]

Hey Fred! Glad to hear from you. I love your catalog link, but my pin is welded on the plow as original equipment. The right side is removable. I'll be changing it soon. Right now my Ford 101 "Yard Ornament" is in the barn waiting patiently for repairs and some day repainting. When it dries up, I hitch up the 9 foot offset disc and finish prepping the ground for corn. I'm gonna plant field corn to feed the ducks. So now I'm looking for a corn shucker........or whatever you call it!
hugs, Brandi

 

[Texan4Life]

6dogs,
I have a operators manual. A parts book would be a great help. I am not sure if I will like the Big RED Beast with narrow tires. I will have to go from max width...........the most narrow width. Something like 15 inches total. Which means swapping the rims and wheels around.
hugs, Brandi

You can view a parts breakdown online. go to messicks.com and under parts diagram select new holland and for model search put in 101... in the list that pops up toward the bottom you will see: (101-SERIES) MOLDBOARD PLOW (1/47-12/57) click on it.. thats your plow

If you need a part take the part # and google around you might be able to find a aftermarket (especially for wear parts like moldboard, shin, share, landside) or used part that is cheaper. My favorite spots to order online is agrisupply, ebay, and if its a part I need and cant get anywhere else than messicks.

or if you like brick and mortor visit your local New Holland dealer

 

[bindian]

You can view a parts breakdown online. go to messicks.com and under parts diagram select new holland and for model search put in 101... in the list that pops up toward the bottom you will see: (101-SERIES) MOLDBOARD PLOW (1/47-12/57) click on it.. thats your plow

If you need a part take the part # and google around you might be able to find a aftermarket (especially for wear parts like moldboard, shin, share, landside) or used part that is cheaper. My favorite spots to order online is agrisupply, ebay, and if its a part I need and cant get anywhere else than messicks.

or if you like brick and mortor visit your local New Holland dealer

Texan4Life,
Please go back and read my post #43.

TSC has wear parts for Fords in their catalog.

I've been a mechanic for 37 years. I do know how to find parts, but thanks anyway for the google tip.

As for going New Holland dealer. My dealer 15 minutes down the road dropped New Holland and kept Kubota. Sad thing is when a franchise is lost...................so are all the online manuals. I had a Ford 3055 and I was wanting to buy wider front rims. I was told no more Ford parts and got so steamed................I bought new instead of upgrading my good old Ford. This was back in 2007. Since then, Washington County Tractor in Brenham did the same thing. Dropped New Holland and just deal in Kubotas now. Heck, according to New Hollands dealer locator...........the dealers I just talked about are still on their list. So I have no clue where my closet New Holland dealer is.
hugs, Brandi