Snowblowing RPM

[thirdroc17]

WFO ALL the time. That gets the greatest distance of throw. Done a little research, and the engine in my BX2670 is run to 3800 RPM for some applications, and once the warranty is off, I'm cutting the wire and cranking it up some. I'm highly unhappy with the overall performance of this 2 stage blower. The 40 year single stage thrower I used to have blew about as far.

I've read where some people are overdriving their snowblower by as much as 33% and getting some real performance from them.

I just wish I had gears instead of that POS hydro that eats up so much power to run. I bought the highest horsepower of the model line, and I find it lacking in power when blowing snow. I expected decent performance with this big of an investment, and all I got was gizmos like hydro drive.

 

[ericher69]

WFO ALL the time. That gets the greatest distance of throw. Done a little research, and the engine in my BX2670 is run to 3800 RPM for some applications, and once the warranty is off, I'm cutting the wire and cranking it up some. I'm highly unhappy with the overall performance of this 2 stage blower. The 40 year single stage thrower I used to have blew about as far. I've read where some people are overdriving their snowblower by as much as 33% and getting some real performance from them. I just wish I had gears instead of that POS hydro that eats up so much power to run. I bought the highest horsepower of the model line, and I find it lacking in power when blowing snow. I expected decent performance with this big of an investment, and all I got was gizmos like hydro drive.

You ever operate a gear tractor?? Can never find the right gear for the application. Many times you would need to depress the clutch as the blower starts to bog down the engine.

Oh do a search; I have NEVER heard of anybody being disappointed with a Kubota/Blower combination!

Describe your particular beef with it and maybe some of us could help troubleshoot.

Sent from my iPhone 5s 64Gb using TractorByNet

 

[dsmiley]

WFO ALL the time. That gets the greatest distance of throw. Done a little research, and the engine in my BX2670 is run to 3800 RPM for some applications, and once the warranty is off, I'm cutting the wire and cranking it up some. I'm highly unhappy with the overall performance of this 2 stage blower. The 40 year single stage thrower I used to have blew about as far.

I've read where some people are overdriving their snowblower by as much as 33% and getting some real performance from them.

I just wish I had gears instead of that POS hydro that eats up so much power to run. I bought the highest horsepower of the model line, and I find it lacking in power when blowing snow. I expected decent performance with this big of an investment, and all I got was gizmos like hydro drive.

This is a joke, right? This is a BX25 with a BX2750D blower at 3200 rpms -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kK3rDxKPCE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8WJelIWnjQ

How far do you need to throw it, anyway?

 

[BleedingOrange]

This is a joke, right? This is a BX25 with a BX2750D blower at 3200 rpms -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kK3rDxKPCE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8WJelIWnjQ

I blow my snow like that all the time, just to show my neighbor, who has a John Deere, exactly how a snowblower should work, when you run the throttle at the correct RPM. LOL
He runs his throttle so slow, you can see the snow pulses coming out of his chute, and he thinks he is doing his tractor engine a favor by running it so sloooooow. OK with me, but I wouldn,t be one bit surprised to hear the engine blow.

 

[Jay4200]

How fast do you have to run your Kubota's engine to blow snow?

WFO!!

 

[thirdroc17]

You ever operate a gear tractor?? Can never find the right gear for the application. Many times you would need to depress the clutch as the blower starts to bog down the engine.

Oh do a search; I have NEVER heard of anybody being disappointed with a Kubota/Blower combination!

Describe your particular beef with it and maybe some of us could help troubleshoot.

Sent from my iPhone 5s 64Gb using TractorByNet

Only for about 40 years.............

 

[thirdroc17]

This is a joke, right? This is a BX25 with a BX2750D blower at 3200 rpms -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kK3rDxKPCE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8WJelIWnjQ

How far do you need to throw it, anyway?

No joke. Maybe I just have expectations too high. When a $18,000 tractor can only match the performance of a smaller 40 year old tractor.....

As for what's wrong. The hydro pedals are not easy for me to run. The brake pedal is stupid high. The mower doesn't cut as well as my 40 year old Wheel Horse did, the two stage snow thrower barely exceeds the throw of the 40 year old Wheel Horse single stage snow thrower. About the same as your videos show. The "efficient diesel" burns as much fuel as the 40 year old flathead did. I have made some changes, such as painting with graphite paint which has helped, but for a years wages, shouldn't one be able to expect a little more performance? In this world of people thinking a cup holder is equivalent to performance, my expectations are obviously too high. Like I said, for a years wages, shouldn't one be able to expect better performance than a 40 year old flathead gave???? Maybe I should just go back to the Farmall Super C.

 

[dsmiley]

When a $18,000 tractor can only match the performance of a smaller 40 year old tractor.....

I doubt this is the case.

Maybe I should just go back to the Farmall Super C.

Yes. I agree.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I went from a 1997 John Deere LX188 17hp gas engine with single stage 38" snowblower to a 2013 Kubota GR2120 21hp diesel engine with two stage 46" snowblower. Horsepower per inch of snowblower in both applications is same for practical concerns. The two stage diesel outperforms the single stage gas hands down, no comparison. Throwing distance, ground speed, volume of snow moved, very happy with my upgrade. HST is way to go on these smaller machines, I only need to use brake pedal on HST machine to start (no complaints here). Maybe you should have tried out the pedals before you spent a years wages on it. Philip.

 

[thirdroc17]

I'm glad it works for you, but it does not work for me. I'm the type of person who can use a mirror, don't need a back up camera. Ditto on running a clutch and gear shift.

The mowing quality is far worse, and the snow blowing distance is about equal. Not better performance.

I did try the peddles, they sucked. The dealer talked me into them, largely I suppose because that's what he had. I regret the purchase, I paid a lot, it didn't work out, I would not recommend a hydro for anything. The heat in summer, lose of power year round, just isn't worth the high dollar to buy one. Case closed.

 

[ericher69]

No joke. Maybe I just have expectations too high. When a $18,000 tractor can only match the performance of a smaller 40 year old tractor..... As for what's wrong. The hydro pedals are not easy for me to run. The brake pedal is stupid high. The mower doesn't cut as well as my 40 year old Wheel Horse did, the two stage snow thrower barely exceeds the throw of the 40 year old Wheel Horse single stage snow thrower. About the same as your videos show. The "efficient diesel" burns as much fuel as the 40 year old flathead did. I have made some changes, such as painting with graphite paint which has helped, but for a years wages, shouldn't one be able to expect a little more performance? In this world of people thinking a cup holder is equivalent to performance, my expectations are obviously too high. Like I said, for a years wages, shouldn't one be able to expect better performance than a 40 year old flathead gave???? Maybe I should just go back to the Farmall Super C.

How about a side by side comparison between the new useless diesel vs the almighty farmall?

Video would prove your point and silence the skeptics...

Sent from my iPhone 5s 64Gb using TractorByNet

 

[HybridVigor]

I'm glad it works for you, but it does not work for me. I'm the type of person who can use a mirror, don't need a back up camera. Ditto on running a clutch and gear shift. The mowing quality is far worse, and the snow blowing distance is about equal. Not better performance. I did try the peddles, they sucked. The dealer talked me into them, largely I suppose because that's what he had. I regret the purchase, I paid a lot, it didn't work out, I would not recommend a hydro for anything. The heat in summer, lose of power year round, just isn't worth the high dollar to buy one. Case closed.

I'm curious why you didn't look for a shuttle shift or power reverser then? Surely for 18K hydro wasn't the only option.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Don't blame the tractor, you made a bad desicion. A little research, test drive, and comparisons would have saved a years wages. Just think of the number of Farmall's you could have bought Philip.

 

[dsmiley]

I regret the purchase, I paid a lot, it didn't work out, I would not recommend a hydro for anything. The heat in summer, lose of power year round, just isn't worth the high dollar to buy one. Case closed.

I agree. Sell that dog and buy a Farmall, Wheel Horse, John Deere, or whatever makes your heart go pittapat. It will make everyone happy.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

I'm glad it works for you, but it does not work for me. I'm the type of person who can use a mirror, don't need a back up camera. Ditto on running a clutch and gear shift. The mowing quality is far worse, and the snow blowing distance is about equal. Not better performance. I did try the peddles, they sucked. The dealer talked me into them, largely I suppose because that's what he had. I regret the purchase, I paid a lot, it didn't work out, I would not recommend a hydro for anything. The heat in summer, lose of power year round, just isn't worth the high dollar to buy one. Case closed.

This should be fun to watch! Here we go 100 plus thread for sure on why he is wrong time for popcorn . Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[Jay4200]

WFO ALL the time. That gets the greatest distance of throw. Done a little research, and the engine in my BX2670 is run to 3800 RPM for some applications, and once the warranty is off, I'm cutting the wire and cranking it up some. I'm highly unhappy with the overall performance of this 2 stage blower. The 40 year single stage thrower I used to have blew about as far.

I've read where some people are overdriving their snowblower by as much as 33% and getting some real performance from them.

I just wish I had gears instead of that POS hydro that eats up so much power to run. I bought the highest horsepower of the model line, and I find it lacking in power when blowing snow. I expected decent performance with this big of an investment, and all I got was gizmos like hydro drive.

I suggest modifying the chain reduction in the blower to spin at higher RPM (bigger fan gear and longer chain) rather than overdrive your tractor's engine. I agree that the capabilities of a BX is a disappointment - I expected more from my BX2200 as well, however, it does do a nice job mowing the grass. As far as real tractor work, it's certainly not half of a L4200, that's for certain. OTOH, I DO love the hydro - I wish my L4200GST had hydro instead of shuttle - there's nothing better for snowblowing or loader work (or almost anything else, IMHO) than a hydro.

 

[sandyc]

Sounds like buyer remorse......

 

[rScotty]

I have auto-throttle and HST, personally, I would not use auto-throttle with PTO engaged equipment. Philip.

You know, Philip. I missed that message of yours and am awfully you mentioned that there are times when a PTO and an auto-throttle definitely do NOT go together. It's a very good point and one I sure did overlook. Thanks again.
Just thinking about leaving the auto-throttle engaged when running some implements like a post hole drill makes me shudder....Dang!

Maybe I forgot because it's been a few years, I'm getting older, and have not had the occassion to use 3pt PTO equipment on our M59 with auto-throttle. So far, all my infatuation with the auto-throttle comes about when using it with a loader and on hilly ground but with the backhoe on back instead of anything on the 3pt or PTO. For use like that the autothrottle is fine because it has a slow enough response to allow you to change the bucket angle or even downshift the split shifter - doing either or both to ease the load before the autothrottle can have time to rev the engine up.

Thanks for posting about the auto-throttle and PTO use. I completely agree. The same thinking also goes for some old gas Ag tractors like our JD530 or maybe the 8N where the governor works like an auto-throttle. Those old beasts can take the motor from working at an idle to to full chat way fast. Definitely not something you want to have happen when augering fence post holes!

Now that I think of it, many (not all) farm implements will work at any PTO speed as long as there is sufficient engine torque at that rpm and the ground speed can be slowed accordingly. And for working slowly - like around obstacles - having an independently clutched live PTO makes all the difference.
With that combo and depending on the implement a fellow may not have to work at the top PTO speed - or at any special speed unless he just prefers to. I can see where snow blowing or mowing are times why he might want full PTO speed to get the blades spinning fast. Both are low load/high RPM applications where having a multi-speed PTO would be nice to get those blades whirling while running lower engine RPMs.

Of course there's always room for the other opinion. And I know - although I'm not one of them - that there are perfectly reasonable folks who just happen to love the sound of a motor roaring at top RPM. That's all part and parcel of what they like about tractoring.
I just don't happen to be one of them. Our land is remote and quiet and that's how we enjoy working it.

Either way works. It's been my observation that the tractors themselves don't really seem to care.
They'll last as long one way as the other.
Enjoy! rScotty
rScotty

 

[bellweather]

I follow the tractor manufacturer's manual, which I figure was written with input from the engineers who developed the equipment: mowing, chipping and snow blowing with throttle at max RPM.

 

[rScotty]

I follow the tractor manufacturer's manual, which I figure was written with input from the engineers who developed the equipment: mowing, chipping and snow blowing with throttle at max RPM.

Exactly right. That manual concentrates on the MAXIMUM RPM. You'll usually find that MAXIMUM TORQUE occurs somewhere close to that RPM and MAX EFFICIENCY happens around there as well. Nothing wrong with that.
In this modern age of competition and trumpeted advertising the manufacturers get to yelling so much about "maximums" that they entirely ignore the average numbers. And who can blame them? Maximum everything is the world they live in.

But it's not the world I live in. There are plenty of times on my own land when I'd rather spend a little more time with a job....trading that for less wear, less noise, and maybe even a bit less fuel used.
I've no problem with anyone who wants to run their machine at maximum. There's times I do too. But that's what it is: a maximum; and that's not for everyone all the time.
What I'm saying is that tractors seem to care very little one way or the other.
Luck! rScotty