1950 allis chalmers wd

   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #1  

Birchhatchery

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i have a Wd that sits in a metal shed does not get used much at all in winter its been real cold -9-20 degrees daily. I noticed when I changed my oil a week ago it looked milky I was told it was from condensation in the oil from it sitting in the metal barn and only being started once a week is that correct? my coolant level has not droped no smoke or nothing. also my rear end fluid is milky colord also I was wondering if it would hurt the rear end or should I change it this spring? I realized now I should have waited and changed the oil this spring when the big fluctuation in temps has stoped as much I plant to change to the oil this spring again and I was wondering If I will need to change the rear end fluid also? this tractor is a pulling parade tractor and gets used to pull the manure spreader occasionly
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #2  
That's more then likely the cause. They all go through a sweat after a cold spell, then, the air temp warms quickly, and condensation forms, inside and out. If it were ran 4-5 days a week for an extended period of time, the moisture would more than likely evaporate, and you wouldn't notice that happening.

An old Gulf oil lube spec book I have calls for the transmission and rear differentials to be changed twice a year, but doubt many do. I'd suspect this to be the reason. The book only goes back covering the C's & CA's, D-14's etc., or I'd have scanned and posted it for you. Sorry...
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #3  
If it isn't started weekly and just left to sit the amount of condensation may be much less.

Just starting it and not working probably doesn't allow the temperatures to get into the range the water will evaporate but it will get hot enough to help condensation.
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd
  • Thread Starter
#4  
ok I relize that the motor oil have water in it is not good which is why I plant to change it when the weather gets much better but my question is will the water in the rear end be a problem or should I change that every spring also?
my hydraulics for the 3 point is empty I only fill that during the spring-fall when its in use im talking about the oil in the rear end
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #6  
I agree you ought to change the fluids and I understand why the engine oil is milky if you start it but don't get it really hot. I'm surprised that the differential is contaminated. It would probably be a good idea to change it if you never have, but we ran several WDs and WD45s back on the farm and I don't remember ever changing the differential lube. We ran them wide open non-stop. We might replace clutch disks when we rebuilt an engine but I can't remember ever working on the transmission or rear end of one.
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #7  
I'd dump in some diesel, atf and alcohol into the rear sump and agitate then drain and refill with lube.
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I'd dump in some diesel, atf and alcohol into the rear sump and agitate then drain and refill with lube.

I switched the rear end fluid last summer I didnlt think it would be a big deal if it had sum water in the oil for just lubrication gears my hydraulics wich is a separate unit I will fill this spring when I start using it more also they call for 30-40 weight oil regular motor oil in the hydraulics it leaks do you think it would be a big problem to use 90 weight oil in it? also will the Fram C 139 oil filter fit?
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #9  
You have to watch oil not intended for use in some areas as you can get cavitation. c 159. .?
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd
  • Thread Starter
#10  
You have to watch oil not intended for use in some areas as you can get cavitation. what mean? c 159. .?
and what does cavitation mean so does that mean I should not do it?
Fram filter C 159
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #11  
I switched the rear end fluid last summer I didnlt think it would be a big deal if it had sum water in the oil for just lubrication gears my hydraulics wich is a separate unit I will fill this spring when I start using it more also they call for 30-40 weight oil regular motor oil in the hydraulics it leaks do you think it would be a big problem to use 90 weight oil in it? also will the Fram C 139 oil filter fit?

I think it would be a big problem to put 90 weight into the hydraulic system. It's not meant for heavy oil. I think it would put a lot of stress on the pump.
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #12  
To the op, Google cavitation. Basically, and not precisely, it is a restriction induced vacume that results in lowered vapor pressure of the oil, micro pockets that implode and pit the metal.
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I will be filling up with 10/40 motor oil then
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd #14  
I'd personally use utf both will work..
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd
  • Thread Starter
#15  
so I got underneath the tractor and I was going to try to drain the fluid out of the hydraulics its the drain hole that's in front of the pto box that drops down correct? I undid it and gear oil poured out confused? on my dip stick for the hydraulics shows nothing on it wheres the drain for the hydraulics? I see one drain plug rear end another one just up from their that makes to and then one at the bottom of the pto box that drops down and then one that in front of that closest to motor that's the one I undid. I found total of 4 drain plugs
 
   / 1950 allis chalmers wd
  • Thread Starter
#16  
but what gear oil did come out of what I don't no maybe I got wrong drain but it didnlt look bad so I checked the oil level and you can see the oil on the drain plugs so the fluid level is fine so im just going to leave it and change the motor oil this spring and fill the hydraulics with universal hydraulic fluid 20 weight up to the proper level and go
 

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