rswyan
Super Star Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2004
- Messages
- 11,393
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S, Simplicity 18 CFC, Cub Cadet 782
45F and cloudy @ 14:00 ...
Having a little coffee and trying to wake up before I head out into the chill. The idea of washing things off with water in the cold isn't terribly appealing.
I have tried a number of different "stop rust" or rust converter products over the years ... and have a few different ones up in the shop ... including some I've never even tried. Think most of them are probably based on phosphoric acid.
For the past ten or so years I've just mostly been using phosphoric acid to convert the rust to iron phosphate. Usually try to remove the heavy surface rust (needle scaler or wire wheel in a grinder) and then coat (or dip for the small stuff) it with phosphoric acid. Depending on various factors (temp/humidity/etc) this will often "dry" (convert) pretty quickly - turning mostly dark black or gray. Depending on how thick the rust layer is, it may not all convert (can still see some rust color showing thru) and I may do one or more additional coats - before it's really totally "dry".
It seems to work pretty well, in that stuff that I've done that hasn't been painted doesn't seem to be very inclined to rust ... at least in a somewhat protected environment (out of the weather)
Having a little coffee and trying to wake up before I head out into the chill. The idea of washing things off with water in the cold isn't terribly appealing.
Can't say that I have ...Rs have you ever tried a product called Over Rust. You paint it on white and when it turns purple its dry. But it is suppose to encapsulate the rust and stop it. You put it on before you prime or paint. We use to use a couple gallons a year when I worked at the fertilizer plant.
I have tried a number of different "stop rust" or rust converter products over the years ... and have a few different ones up in the shop ... including some I've never even tried. Think most of them are probably based on phosphoric acid.
For the past ten or so years I've just mostly been using phosphoric acid to convert the rust to iron phosphate. Usually try to remove the heavy surface rust (needle scaler or wire wheel in a grinder) and then coat (or dip for the small stuff) it with phosphoric acid. Depending on various factors (temp/humidity/etc) this will often "dry" (convert) pretty quickly - turning mostly dark black or gray. Depending on how thick the rust layer is, it may not all convert (can still see some rust color showing thru) and I may do one or more additional coats - before it's really totally "dry".
It seems to work pretty well, in that stuff that I've done that hasn't been painted doesn't seem to be very inclined to rust ... at least in a somewhat protected environment (out of the weather)