ck2510 after 11 hrs

[tiogajoe]

I cant believe how tough this little tractor is. We keep it at the house we are building so I do not get to use it as much as I would like since we only are there on weekends. Trying to get close to 50 hours on it before it gets real cold to get synthetic oil at least in the motor. Only issue I found was the coolant level was one the low mark in the holding tank so I top it off to half way between low and full. Might have been an air bubble in the system from new? Im looking forward to shopping for a brush mower to start cleaning up our property. Ive installed a piranhna tooth bar and I can truly say it has made the fel more useful. Big improvement over my old 8n! Looking forward to learning all the neat things this little tractor can do. My wife even likes it!

 

[tiogajoe]

...Has anyone changed their engine oil and filter before the 50 hour service? Winter up here can have temps below zero and I would like to get synthetic oil in the the motor to help with starting. The monual states a 15w40 grade. Anyone use anything lighter? The tractor is stored in a un heated pole barn. i'm kicking around the idea of one of those magnetic block heaters??

 

[murphy1244]

...Has anyone changed their engine oil and filter before the 50 hour service? Winter up here can have temps below zero and I would like to get synthetic oil in the the motor to help with starting. The monual states a 15w40 grade. Anyone use anything lighter? The tractor is stored in a un heated pole barn. i'm kicking around the idea of one of those magnetic block heaters??

I would go with 5w 40 and a block heater.

 

[firemanmike69]

...Has anyone changed their engine oil and filter before the 50 hour service? Winter up here can have temps below zero and I would like to get synthetic oil in the the motor to help with starting. The monual states a 15w40 grade. Anyone use anything lighter? The tractor is stored in a un heated pole barn. i'm kicking around the idea of one of those magnetic block heaters??

Put some 5w40 in there and see if you can find an actual block heater not one of those magnetic ones

 

[holeycow]

0/40 synthetic like chevron delo is good stuff. Shell seems allright too. Not all "0" weights are created equal. Some don't seem to stay thin in cold weather like others.

magnetic heaters don't do much. I have one stuck on the bottom of my dk90 transmission. I don't think it does very much, but it is better than nothing. It is merely a supplement to the block heater that I wouldn't be without. I live where it is cold in the winter. Where it is cold in the winter everybody has at the very least a coolant ("block") heater. IT IS THE MINIMUM REQUIREMENT. There is no questioning, no humming and hawing. Just get a block heater and plug that thing in. When it is very cold, my engines are plugged in all night.....so are every-bodies. Many, many people run "0" weight oils year round. The difference is noticeable the first cold start (oil pressure comes up faster and there is no prolonged valve clatter). I recently looked at a Perkins Engine chart that recommends 0/40 from -40c to +40c.

I would go with 0/40 and a block heater.

 

[tiogajoe]

I'm concerned about changing the breakin oil before the first 50 hr. service? Do you guys think ther would be an issue with using a lighter wt. oil esp. when the manual states 15w40? I did not see any other oil wt mentioned in the owners manual. What coolant heater are you guys using? Thanks for all the replys!

 

[Amvcane]

I was told by my dealer to run the regular oil for at least the 50 hr. change and even recommended it for the next cycle. Also he said to make sure the engine saw several good long heat cycles to let the piston rings cut and seat properly. His theory was that the new synthetic oils were so good and slick that they may not let the rings seat properly. I did not research what he said because it sort of made some sense. I am now at 125 hrs. and in the process of dumping the dyno oil and filling the engine with 5w-40 Mobil 1 for the winter and the rest of its life.
Again, I am only repeating what I was told. I know many cars come from the factory with full synthetic in the engine, so I am not sure if there is any merit to this idea.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

My DK 45 has aluminium oil pan so a magnetic heater has a hard time finding a flat place to stick. I put Shell T6 5w40 in my New Holland TN55 early and it took 500 hrs before it stopped using a bit of oil but for the last 2200 hours very little oil use.

 

[DK35vince]

I did my first oil change on my DK 35 at 35 hours switching over to Rotella T-6 5w-40 synthetic.
Been using that same oil ever since. (13 years and 1900 hours)
Rings seated just fine. Never uses any oil at all between changes

 

[tiogajoe]

What's involved in installing a heater in the lower radiator hose? Do you have to drain all the coolant. Step by step would help?

 

[Kioti guy]

I have a ck 20s, my tractor came from the dealer with a oil pan heater installed. I assumed it was a factory install but perhaps it was a dealer installed item. On the Ck 20 it looks like it would be hard to install a traditional block heater as most of the glow plugs are obstructed( exhaust, motor mounts etc).
Installing a lower hose heater would probably work but it would require you to drain the antifreeze.
My pan heater does a great job heating the tractor up in fairly cold conditions and looks like a pretty easy install . It is just epoxied to the bottom of the oil pan with what looks like a standard two part epoxy. ... KG

 

[Kioti guy]

Sorry wrong picture....

 

[ritcheyvs]

The conventional wisdom in the old Mercedes Diesel car community (mine is 1982) is that a block heater that heats the coolant is the best option, if available. Such heaters are quite small, typically run 500-1000 watts, and install in either a threaded hole or replace a freeze plug. Some time ago, a member here discussed such a block heater that his dealer installed in his tractor. Perhaps someone on TBN can offer model or part numbers. I think some far-north dealers routinely install heaters.

It seems to me that a lower hose heater would provide less heat and lose a lot of heat through the hoses. Heating the oil is good until the warm oil hits the cold block and thickens up. The block heater, which actually heats the coolant, does a decent job warming all important parts of the engine. A heater with a decent power level only needs to run a 2-4 hours hours to do the job. Having said that, a good synthetic oil with a low pour point temperature is probably enough except in very low temperatures. For cold starting, the pour point is more important that the labeled viscosity. I see little difference between Mobile 1 5W40 and 15W40; but then I live in the south.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Since the battery can lose up to 50% of it's power in very cold temps, I always figured that keeping it warm by putting a trickle charger on it would provide a very needed boost to a cold engine, probably negating the need for heaters.

That's what I'm trying this winter. I'll mount a little charger under the hood permanently connected to the battery and a small length of power cord with plug hanging out to plug in my ext cord.

I suspect it will work fine.

 

[holeycow]

It's not just about getting the thing started. There are lots of ways to get a cold engine started (most of them include warming the thing up)... It's about protecting your engine and other systems from premature failure due to cold weather operating.

The best system I have is in a Deutz tractor (air cooled) which has 2 "irons" in the block to heat the oil (and also the steel) all night before operating, a battery blanket (that I never use) and another "iron" in the air intake shroud (gets plugged in for 1/2 hour to an hour prior to starting). This system literally heats all the drivetrain from one end to the other and top to bottom while sitting in still air in a cold shop. It works a lot better than a simple "iron" in the coolant. It is much less effective in a breeze, as are any heating systems.

I don't know why some of yous guys resist putting in a block heater. I guess when you don't know any better, then it's just fine.

No more advice from the northern prairies on this one......

 

[tiogajoe]

I appreciate all the replies. I decided to go with a lower hose heater. It looks like there is lots of room to install one on the ck2510. I got a kats with the copper element inside the unit. Im going to put off changing the oil to synthetic for a few more hours. I dont think kioti has an oem block heater. I dont know how installing something aftermarket might effect the warranty esp. if its not installed by the dealer?

 

[Coyote machine]

Block heater in freeze plug, block heater in freeze plug.

 

[oldpilgrim]

It's not just about getting the thing started. There are lots of ways to get a cold engine started (most of them include warming the thing up)... It's about protecting your engine and other systems from premature failure due to cold weather operating.

The best system I have is in a Deutz tractor (air cooled) which has 2 "irons" in the block to heat the oil (and also the steel) all night before operating, a battery blanket (that I never use) and another "iron" in the air intake shroud (gets plugged in for 1/2 hour to an hour prior to starting). This system literally heats all the drivetrain from one end to the other and top to bottom while sitting in still air in a cold shop. It works a lot better than a simple "iron" in the coolant. It is much less effective in a breeze, as are any heating systems.

I don't know why some of yous guys resist putting in a block heater. I guess when you don't know any better, then it's just fine.

No more advice from the northern prairies on this one......

Do you heat the water, oil, block of your car or truck? it runs at a lot higher rpms than your tractor.

Heating a diesel is all about startability due to it's high compression ratio and difficulty in turning over, especially when it's cold. Heating the oil makes starting healthier for the vehicle but that's not the primary reason to do it.

 

[dragoneggs]

I personally would not go with a much thinner oil during breaking in especially if this could violate warranty. I would definitely at least check that out with your dealer before you switch. Even if that has nothing to do with a freak engine problem I would sure hate to see that bit you in the 'youknowwhat'. A block heater and a trickle charger seems much better of a solution to me.

 

[holeycow]

Do you heat the water, oil, block of your car or truck? it runs at a lot higher rpms than your tractor.

Yes. Almost all Canadian vehicles have a block heater. Many even have 2.

And what does rpm have to do with it?