Ball Joints: Home-made press

[LD1]

In preparation of the up coming task of changing the dreaded ball joints on my 3rd gen Dodge 3500, I made a home made press. Not the typical Cee style, rather totally boxed in.

Made 2 actually. The larger one is 1" x 2" bar steel, with the threaded portion being 1-1/2" x 2-1/2". Uses 1"-8 threads.

Smaller one is 1/2" x 2" steel with 1-1/2" x 2" threaded piece which is 3/4"-16 threads.

They worked just as I hoped they would. All the ball joints are out and awaiting the new ones to arrive tuesday.

Also work great for u-joints.

Just thought I would share. I know these are tough joints to pop, and didnt really trust a HF one (nor had the time to go get one). And didnt want to spend $200+ for a better set.

Heres some pics:

 

[R W]

A great idea, would have made the job much easier.

 

[franklin2]

Make sure to keep the threads oiled on your new presses. They are machines just like anything else, oil will make them last much longer and make them easier to turn when using them.

That's the only advantage I see to a quality store bought model, the threaded rod is usually hardened and has very fine threads. The Harbor Freight model seems to get by without the very hard threads, but I do keep it oiled to help it last. Most of us won't use these things but once in a couple of years anyway, not like a professional frontend guy.

 

[LD1]

Make sure to keep the threads oiled on your new presses. They are machines just like anything else, oil will make them last much longer and make them easier to turn when using them.

That's the only advantage I see to a quality store bought model, the threaded rod is usually hardened and has very fine threads. The Harbor Freight model seems to get by without the very hard threads, but I do keep it oiled to help it last. Most of us won't use these things but once in a couple of years anyway, not like a professional frontend guy.

I greased them.

Its a grade 8 bolts/thread rod, so its pretty hard already.

Most of the cheaper ones I have seen in the stores are aluminum C-frames anyway. I see that being the weakest link...aluminum threads.

I was debating on going with fine thread or a coarser thread for this puller. Fine threads give greater pressure with less torque of the wrench, but by nature, the "meat" of the thread is smaller. It is damaged/dinged easier. So I was torn as to what to use to make the best puller. For the larger puller I made, it was easy, cause I didnt have any 1" fine thread rods or nuts. So coarse it was. So I opted for 3/4" fine for the smaller puller.

They really did work great too. Got lucky and had just the right length piece of pipe and spacers to make the job a breeze. I did ball joints a month ago on and identical truck with a decent store bought puller set. I like my set-up better.

 

[FarmWrench]

Why can't I get the pictures? This site did the same to my tile plow build.

 

[murphy1244]

LD1, you are one handy Dude!

 

[LD1]

You give me too much credit. But I can get by. Thanks for the kind words.

 

[dusty3030]

Nice job! I always borrow them on the loaner tool deal from AutoZone and they are the C type. They work but really flex. On half of them I usually end up trying to drive them out with an air hammer.

Your home made looks better than any I have used, nice work.

 

[LD1]

Nice job! I always borrow them on the loaner tool deal from AutoZone and they are the C type. They work but really flex. On half of them I usually end up trying to drive them out with an air hammer.

Your home made looks better than any I have used, nice work.

I thought about the loaner tool, but even though it is free, driving 20 miles there and 20 miles back, TWICE, and the time involved....I wanted a more permanent solution.

I am unsure why so many of the ball joint presses are cee style. Boxed in like this would be much stronger. These didnt flex at all:thumbsup:

 

[mikehaugen]

I thought about the loaner tool, but even though it is free, driving 20 miles there and 20 miles back, TWICE, and the time involved....I wanted a more permanent solution.

I am unsure why so many of the ball joint presses are cee style. Boxed in like this would be much stronger. These didnt flex at all:thumbsup:

Good to see I'm not the only one that goes through the trouble of making stuff that only gets used a couple times. I made a differential housing spreader about 5 years ago... used it once to rebuild my rearend and it has sat on the shelf ever since. Took me as long to make it as it did to do the rebuild

 

[LD1]

Good to see I'm not the only one that goes through the trouble of making stuff that only gets used a couple times. I made a differential housing spreader about 5 years ago... used it once to rebuild my rearend and it has sat on the shelf ever since. Took me as long to make it as it did to do the rebuild

Funny you mention rear ends.

I still have a set of set-up bearings for a dana 60 rear axle.

The bearings get pressed on the diff with the shims behind the bearings. And no good way to removed them once on to make adjustments to the the backlash and preload. So I had a set honed out for slip fit:thumbsup: Only used them once...

 

[mikehaugen]

Funny you mention rear ends.

I still have a set of set-up bearings for a dana 60 rear axle.

The bearings get pressed on the diff with the shims behind the bearings. And no good way to removed them once on to make adjustments to the the backlash and preload. So I had a set honed out for slip fit:thumbsup: Only used them once...

You are very right, after struggling with them last time, I said if I ever have to do it again, I will do exactly what you are describing. One of the bearings spun on the carrier so I had to replace the carrier, and the shims were destroyed. I had absolutely no baseline to start from and all of the info I found said to match what was there to begin with. I did a lot of measuring and ended up right on the second try- so I wasted one set of bearings. The second time I had the gear mesh correct, but I felt that the pre-load was a little tight, but I let it go. I wished that I had planned ahead and had dummy bearings... but I guess I know for next time. At least I will have the spreader :laughing:

 

[franklin2]

Why can't I get the pictures? This site did the same to my tile plow build.

Sometimes you have to go into your profile and into the settings, and make sure you have the "allow" pictures turned on. There is a lot of junk in there that can mess things up.

 

[SPIKER]

About the only thing I would have done a bit differently is to make ONE set with adjustable side brackets so you can squeeze the two uprights tight to the part.

Make two box shapes with 4 "T" nuts then use all thread to hold the two boxes together (slide the threaded rods close to the A-Arm so less bending forces when pressing.)

The center threaded rod would then be the press & could be thru a 5th "T" or welded solid.

I built a spring compressor doing it just like that using the center rod for keeping it centered and two outside ones for compressing the spring. That was a LONG time ago (1991 or so) and I DID find one of the threaded rods a while back but that was it..

Mark

 

[LD1]

I thought about making the sides adjustable, but then thought it through some more..

In practice, even if sides were adjustable, it would still be easier and quicker to just grab something to space up the bottom or top, or longer piece of pipe, etc. Like I did with the pieces of flat steel under the tubing in picture 3.

 

[jwmorris]

I had to make a "C" style to swap out a u-joint where the shaft could not be removed from the machine.

I used a 10 ton porta power ram instead of threaded rod.

The machined insert allows you to press out and in without having to turn it the other direction.

Not one of the things I use a lot but it works when nothing else will.

 

[Tejas]

Nice work! I may have to do this and my Ford is needing all 4 replaced......again!