What am I missing about removing Draft Link (3720 Cab)

[OZisKTB]

New owner, bent the right draft link (LVA14238) on my 3-point hitch pushing my box blade :confused2: backward too hard.

Ordered a new one and tried to remove and replace. I removed the bolt and lock nut that hold the Pin Fastener (LVU15084) in place.

Thought the Pin Fastener would tap right out. (Wrong)

What am I missing? Penetrating oil had no impact, neither did the hammer or trying to rotate the Pin Fastener.

Thanks in advance for great advice.

Kirk

 

[F3506]

Just went through something similar on a New Holland. On mine, one end of the pin had a bar across the end that slipped into a slot to keep it from rotating when you tightened it down. It took multiple cuss words and finally a 4' steel bar with a wedge shape on the end of it being driven between the bar and the frame by a sledge hammer to break it loose. My 4' gorilla pry bar got straightened out trying to pry it out.

If your's drives out to the inside, I'd remove the wheel and get a sledgehammer. Or maybe put a bottle jack between some blocks at the wheel and the pin. Those things don't come out easy.

 

[OZisKTB]

Thanks for sharing. My failed attempts have involved a 2 Lbs sledge, chisel, and 6' prybar. Don't have the helping hands to remove the filled R-4 to bang harder.

Thanks again, thought it was just inexperienced me.

 

[whis]

Try turning it

 

[OZisKTB]

Thanks, put a pipe wrench on the open end?

 

[whis]

that or the flat piece the bolt goes thru to hold it in

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

If the nut an bolt are removed it should pull right out. I always would lube mine with lithium grease. I suspect perhaps the pin may be bent. I'd try heat and a large punch and 8 lbs hammer.

Matt

 

[F3506]

Mine wasn't bent. Just seized. It actually went back in very easily.

A pipe wrench might work. I still say try the bottle jack idea. Just use plenty of long pieces of wood to spread the load and brace against and then just press the pin out.

 

[OZisKTB]

Thanks good ideas, I'll give them a try. I believe the "flat piece the bolt goes thru" is seized to the frame. The bolt came out well, but had lots of corrosion.

 

[beenthere]

Don't have the helping hands to remove the filled R-4 to bang harder.

The R-4 loaded should just stand on its own, at least mine do. Has not been a problem to handle them alone.

 

[OZisKTB]

Thanks, didn't know that. Advice on a jack good enough to take hitting the pin from the side?

 

[jenkinsph]

The R-4 loaded should just stand on its own, at least mine do. Has not been a problem to handle them alone.

Long time no see, glad to see you are back.

 

[F3506]

I guess another option would be to visit the local auto parts store and rent a ball joint press. From the looks of it, the press should fit around the frame, but I'd measure before you bring it home just to be on the safe side.

 

[yooper68]

You need to rotate the pin (flat part on inside that bolt went through is attached) about 90 degrees back then it slides out to the inside. I have to take mine off on 3520 to put backhoe on. Never had a problem; slides pretty easy. If it is not rotated it will not move.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

You need to rotate the pin (flat part on inside that bolt went through is attached) about 90 degrees back then it slides out to the inside. I have to take mine off on 3520 to put backhoe on. Never had a problem; slides pretty easy. If it is not rotated it will not move.

Not sure if this is the case on the cab model, but on the open station the flat part doesn't have to rotate at all for the pin to come out.

Matt

 

[beenthere]

I agree with yooper68, that if the keeper bolt is out (and you said it is), then rotating that pin by a flat bar or large screw driver is the best way to get it broken loose.
Hitting with a maul or putting pressure from a bottle jack may just break a casting. THAT be expensive...

Interesting that that pin LVU15084 lists for around $25, except Sears has it listed at $94. Same part no.

 

[yooper68]

Just looked at mine again. Looks like it doesn't need to rotate but I always do. Can't remember why. There is a slight groove across pto housing cover that it slides in.

 

[OZisKTB]

I guess another option would be to visit the local auto parts store and rent a ball joint press. From the looks of it, the press should fit around the frame, but I'd measure before you bring it home just to be on the safe side.

F3506 , Thanks appreciate the suggestion. I'll measure and try.

 

[OZisKTB]

Thanks Matt.

 

[OZisKTB]

I agree with yooper68, that if the keeper bolt is out (and you said it is), then rotating that pin by a flat bar or large screw driver is the best way to get it broken loose.
Hitting with a maul or putting pressure from a bottle jack may just break a casting. THAT be expensive...

Interesting that that pin LVU15084 lists for around $25, except Sears has it listed at $94. Same part no.

beenthere, are you saying to pry the flange that holds the keeper by prying in down, leveraging against the 3PT casing?