need help selecting a tractor

[binfarm]

we need to do the following:

pull a brush hog
plow a few acres for gardening
move (drag) trees
move materials (gravel, dirt, ect.)
unload pallets possibly
grade and repair dirt gravel roads

i think i need:

bucket loader (hydraulics)
3 point hitch
rear pto
rear hydraulics
blade
4wd
reliability

we are managing about 70 acres and it is a lot of clay and very soft at times.

need suggestions on a good tractor for the money. we have jd near but they seem out of my price range.

would like to spend around 10k if possible as we will probably need a pickup truck and an old jeep as well.

thanks!

 

[Tompet]

I would suggest you go to other dealer brands in your area and ask the same questions while also looking at the used equipment on the lots. Also go to a site like http://www.tractorhouse.com and click on, for example, the less than 40 horse tractor section (just how they are organized) and focus on the mid 30 to 40 hp tractors to get an idea of what used tractors fitting your description are going for price wise.

Gradually you will build a frame of reference and start to be able to judge your needs. All the major brands are pretty dependable, but your budget would suggest to consider looking at used. Nothing wrong with that as you should be able to find something that will serve you well.

With 70 acres I would suggest 25hp pto power as about a minimum and with soft clay etc. a frame size of compact on up.

 

[Citydude]

I would suggest you go to other dealer brands in your area and ask the same questions while also looking at the used equipment on the lots. Also go to a site like http://www.tractorhouse.com and click on, for example, the less than 40 horse tractor section (just how they are organized) and focus on the mid 30 to 40 hp tractors to get an idea of what used tractors fitting your description are going for price wise.

Gradually you will build a frame of reference and start to be able to judge your needs. All the major brands are pretty dependable, but your budget would suggest to consider looking at used. Nothing wrong with that as you should be able to find something that will serve you well.

With 70 acres I would suggest 25hp pto power as about a minimum and with soft clay etc. a frame size of compact on up.

I second this advice. Good luck !

 

[jeff9366]

Gardening: Will this be a business? How large a garden in acres or feet? Is garden primary work area?

How much of the land you will work is sloped? How sloped? Tractor size requirements go up quickly if you have to pull implements up and down hills and 4-WD becomes a requirement.

For gardening, a PTO powered roto-tiller is more useful than a plow, which you need to pair with a Disc Harrow.

Bucket Loader is referred to as a Front End Loader (FEL). Four Wheel Drive (4-WD) is nearly essential to scoop up a full bucket of dirt.

Every tractor has a Three Point Hitch; every Three Point Hitch as hydraulic lift and Power Takeoff (PTO). You need a tractor with a Category '1' Three Point Hitch. Category 1 is by far the most common size. Category '0' will be too small.

It does not require much power to pull a Bush Hog, nor to drag trees, but you do need traction: i.e. 4-WD.

Of your 70 acres, how much will actually be worked and how much is forest?

Sub-compact tractors have only 9" of ground clearance. You probably need 12" - 14" of ground clearance to get into the woods.

A lot of tractor reliability comes from the operator. Will only family members be operating tractor? Employees are rough on equipment 99% of the time. How mechanically adept and prone to get your hand greasy are you? Greasing tractors is ongoing, especially in commercial applications.

Around Tallahassee you should have several tractor dealers offering a range of tractor brands.

Craig's List and eBay are places to shop, cautiously, for used tractors and implements on-line. Prices are lowest in late Fall and Winter.

LINK:

TractorData.com - Three-Point Hitch

 

[GManBart]

It sounds like you need something bigger than a sub-compact, and that's going to make $10K unlikely. If you're thinking new, it sounds like you need a minimum of around 30hp in the smaller compact size tractors (2,500lbs before the loader), 4wd and R1 tires (much better in clay/soft/mud). I would stay away from any of the Chinese tractors (Jinma, etc), and look at either LS, Kioti, or TYM as those three offer the most performance for the dollar right now.

As an example, the LS G3033 is probably what I would call the minimum size/power machine you'd need, and they're nearly $16K new (a bit over if you go with an HST transmission). Luckily, LS lets dealers advertise actual prices, so you can get an idea what they really go for. I would expect a bit more if you look at a similar Kioti, or TYM, but not much...maybe $1000-1500.

LS 3033 Tractor Loader compact

 

[jeff9366]

I concur with GManBart's advice. You may or may not have LS, Kioti or TYM near Tallahassee.

 

[binfarm]

I can squeeze a little more out of the budget if needed but is there a reason to go new? I usually buy used cars and from my understanding, tractors should last much longer than cars.

 

[Eric102]

Financing and warranty might be one reason to go new. Many brands offer 0% for fairly long terms.

 

[Beltman60]

used is the only way you will find something to do what you want it to do for 10K

Now why do you need a Jeep?
most of what a jeep can do a tractor can do

 

[binfarm]

0%? I'll have to look into that. The jeep is just to get around the land instead of a side by side. Something old like Willy's or a "newer" cj7 that the wife likes.

 

[binfarm]

Not sure if I need a FEL or a box blade for maintaining roads / trails. or both...

 

[Eric102]

0%? I'll have to look into that. The jeep is just to get around the land instead of a side by side. Something old like Willy's or a "newer" cj7 that the wife likes.

John Deere is normally 0% for 60 months plus they usually have cash back discounts on the attachments if bought at the same time.

 

[Eric102]

Not sure if I need a FEL or a box blade for maintaining roads / trails. or both...

FEL for sure.

 

[GManBart]

I can squeeze a little more out of the budget if needed but is there a reason to go new? I usually buy used cars and from my understanding, tractors should last much longer than cars.

There is nothing wrong with a used machine, but in many cases you don't really save that much money because they hold their value pretty well. A friend just sold his LS R4047H after about a year, and I think he got around $2K less than what he paid for it....and he put 150+ hours on it....almost a wash really.

The one typical exception to this is if you're willing to go with something more than a few years old...say a 10yr old machine, but those start to have some service issues (leaking seals, etc).

If you're not a diesel mechanic, or a quick study, a warranty can make a big difference if anything breaks. This can also influence how close you want/need the dealer to be.

A lot of brands offer low, or 0% financing right now, and if they don't places like AgDirect are offering rates in the 3-4% range.

 

[jeff9366]

Gardening: Will this be a business? How large a garden in acres or feet? Is garden primary work area?

How much of the land you will work is sloped? How sloped? Tractor size requirements go up quickly if you have to pull implements up and down hills and 4-WD becomes a requirement.

For gardening, a PTO powered roto-tiller is more useful than a plow, which you need to pair with a Disc Harrow.

Of your 70 acres, how much will actually be worked and how much is forest?

A lot of tractor reliability comes from the operator. Will only family members be operating tractor? Employees are rough on equipment 99% of the time. How mechanically adept and prone to get your hand greasy are you? Greasing tractors is ongoing, especially in commercial applications.

binfarm: You need to reply to these questions before we can home in with advice specifically for your situation.

 

[binfarm]

private garden. not a business as of now. about an acre in size. there is no primary work area. equal time managing all aspects of property but i dont know for sure until we get going. 30% of the land is slightly to moderately sloped. about 30% will be kept forest with trails. i am a mechanical engineer so able to work on things moderately but not as a full time job. also i do not have much experience with tractors specifically and hydraulics. general maintenance is fine. last week the "chain" fell off of a rented trencher (4') and i was able to get in back on and tension it properly.

 

[flusher]

70 acres--you need horsepower--at least 40 hp (pto).

With a $10K budget, start checking the used tractor market (local dealers, craigslist, eBay, auctions).

Double your budget and you can get a new tractor like my 55 hp (engine)/45 hp (pto) Mahindra 5525 with a 6-ft wide FEL bucket, skid steer quick attach on the FEL, triple rear hydraulic remotes (cost about $19K new).

Good luck.

 

[jeff9366]

private garden. not a business as of now. about an acre in size. there is no primary work area. equal time managing all aspects of property but i dont know for sure until we get going. 30% of the land is slightly to moderately sloped. about 30% will be kept forest with trails. i am a mechanical engineer so able to work on things moderately but not as a full time job. also i do not have much experience with tractors specifically and hydraulics. general maintenance is fine. last week the "chain" fell off of a rented trencher (4') and i was able to get in back on and tension it properly.

Definitely a PTO powered roto-tiller in lieu of a tractor + Disc Harrow combination.

Definitely Four-Wheel-Drive. Definitely HST transmission on slopes.

Definitely FEL.

PTO horsepower 25 minimum, which will be 33-37 engine horsepower. If buying used, 30 PTO horsepower, minimum.

Look for a tractor with at least 2,600 pounds weight, without the FEL. As you have hills, consider tractors with a fairly wide stance; some are available with adjustable wheel widths.

Tires are always a personal decision, however most tractors with an FEL have R4 Industrial tires, which are fatter than R1 ag tires, to support FEL loads. You may find R4s contribute marginally to stability on slopes. I have R4s.

Whether to fill/load the rear tires is another personal decision. I am against loading when a tractor has 4-WD and the land is flat, but loading tires, where the weight is in the lower 2/3 of the tire, certainly improves stability on slopes.

My Kubota L3560 is just right for my needs, better than the lighter B3300SU I had before. However, the L3560 uses significantly more diesel, (.4 gal/hours without PTO engaged) which is a pain to transport from the gas station in five gallon cans, fifteen gallons at a time.

 

[jeff9366]

Not sure if I need a FEL or a box blade for maintaining roads / trails. or both...

Both.

For maintaining roads evaluate a Three Point Hitch mounted rear/angle blade and a Landscape Rake in addition to a Box Blade. "Crowning" a road to prevent erosion along some of its length is easier with these implements. Both allow dirt to move across the face of the angled implement, which can be highly useful. Some suppliers make Landscape Rakes with drop-down blades. Optional skid shoes allow limited pulling of dirt, like a Box Blade.

Box Blades are generally heavier and serve as excellent counterweights to FEL bucket loads. In marginal conditions a Box Blade may move dirt when a Rear Blade or Landscape Rake may not.

I have a Rollover Box Blade and an ETA Landscape Rake with gauge wheels. I use them ROBB 60%/LR 40%.

LINK:

LR16 Series Landscape Rakes | Land Pride

 

[binfarm]

Thank you everyone for the feedback so far. Pardon my ignorance but is buying a new Mahindra comparable to buying a brand new Kia car (with a warranty) as opposed to a used, couple year old, Mercedes (comparable to a JD or Kubota tractor) car? Is this the wrong way to look at it?