Sliding Barn Doors

[Oldyellowtractor]

I am about to start construction on a 30'x40' pole barn. I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row before I begin. I think I've got a handle on everything but the door details. I plan to use a 12' wide sliding door (2 6' panels). The plan is to make the two door panels out of steel tubing and cover (siding not decided yet). I'm not sure how the track attaches to the building. It seems like I would need a slot cut in the siding panels for the track to protrude through.

My thinking is to use a 2" x 12" header then nail a 2" x 4" to this to mount the track on. Would the siding just butt to the 2" x 4" and attach to the 2" x 12" then use a piece of trim to cover the track?

Does anybody have a picture of how the metal panels meet the upper door track? I have searched on the site and can't find anything that shows exactly what I need to see.

 

[Hiltz]

Im not sure what your asking but I would suggest maybe taking a ride in the country, finding a similar barn, maybe take a couple of pictures. I know Tractor Supply has all the hardware need for the type of door your looking to construct.

 

[sodamo]

Not sure if this will give you what you want to know, but maybe a help. This is a set of doors I removed from there original location and repurposed as a sliding wall so to speak. Gives me great access to my batteries from outside. Not an exact fit, but does the job without wasting the material. They actually fit the opening perfectly, just the slide area is a bit different, about 6 inches short one side and no wall the other.

These are 2 sliding doors I made using 2x6s and 4x9 Hardie panel. Track is galvanized, each section is 8ft. Track has hangars that just bolted to the header. I did have to fashion a brace to support the non wall end. Doors are actually rather heavy.





David Sent from my iPad Air using TractorByNet

 

[TomSeller]

I don't have metal siding, but my wood exterior siding is contiguous from roof to ground to the side of the door and to the top of the door at the door opening. On the inside I have support 2x12s (I think) fastened structurally. I then lag bolt through the siding to a track that the sliding door hangs from. The attached is not my diagram, but seems to depict what needs to be done.

 

[weldingisfun]

These videos may help. how to install sliding barn doors - Bing Videos

 

[hslogger]

I will suggest to you that you beef up your door header (s). It will be fine for you to run your two by twelve on the outside if you wish.
But, think about putting some support brackets Inside your uprights and run another two by twelve inside that rest on those support brackets.
Then marry the two layers with nails or star head screws.

Another thing, what we often think is galvanized metal is actually zinc coated and not true heavy duty galvo. When you start looking at real galvo next to zinc coated, you will see a price difference and use the real deal for your lag bolts that are going to hold your track assembly to the header.

If you think the doors are going to be heavy, than triple your header and use longer lag bolts. Might be **** for stout but build it once and forget about it. When you start drilling your holes for your lag bolts, have a can of vasoline or grease for your bolts and it will go much smoother and quicker.

 

[ace10]

Lots of metal trim options for covering the rail here:

Roofing and Siding Trim, Corrugated Metal Roofing Panels, Metal Roof Trim - Mackey Metal Roofing

Just pick the one that is compatible with your rail system.

National: Box Rail | National Hardware

Cannonball: Door Track Systems - CannonBall:HNP

Good luck.

 

[Barnbuilder]

I have always hated building sliding doors. Always seem to warp. If you don't mind spending the money use garage doors. I use ABC metal roofing for all my stuff. They have a good selection of trim.

 

[Barnbuilder]

Just finished this one, 27' x 60'.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I have a "rolling" door on my sugar house. Hardware and track from TSC. If I build another one I will have it roll on the inside of the wall so I don't have to shovel snow out of the way before I can open it in winter.

 

[Aussiebushman]

I'm going through the same thought processes here. Although the structure is pretty sound, it worries me that all the weight hangs from a top beam. I agree with the alternative of rolling from the bottom on a length of railway line. This means fitting just a guide at the top.

I figure the whole assembly would be easier to make, stronger, cheaper and a lot easier to put together. Its simple to fix track to a level concrete base poured into a trench - the depth of that arrangement adjusted to end up level with the shed floor.

 

[Rustyiron]

There are "kits" for sliding or rolling barn doors that really make it easy. They have 4 aluminum extrusions for the vertical sides (no warping) and they accept a 2X? for the horizontal girts to match your wall for attaching the metal. The 2 center extrusions fit into each other for a nice tight fit in the center. This is only for the door itself. you'll then need the track & other hardware. I'd suggest finding either a contractor or a supplier that handles these rolling ag doors for better choices and better parts.

 

[cruz54982]

here in Wisconsin I have come to hate sliding doors in the winter changed all mine to overhead - garage style they seal better and are much nicer to use in the winter. just my 2 cents for free. enjoy the project ,I built a 30x40 pole-barn 3 years ago with the help of my wife , son , and brother-in-law it was a great project.

 

[Boris1]

here in Wisconsin I have come to hate sliding doors in the winter changed all mine to overhead - garage style they seal better and are much nicer to use in the winter. just my 2 cents for free. enjoy the project ,I built a 30x40 pole-barn 3 years ago with the help of my wife , son , and brother-in-law it was a great project.

Do you have any before and after pics of the doors, I am thinking of doing the same thing. Wish I would have just went with the overhead door from the start.

Thanks

 

[cruz54982]

sorry no pics but I have a 12foot high door on 1 end and a 14 foot on the other using opposing corners so that if my wifes camper is in the 14 footer I can still use the 12 without moving the camper.

 

[Rustyiron]

here in Wisconsin I have come to hate sliding doors in the winter changed all mine to overhead - garage style they seal better and are much nicer to use in the winter. just my 2 cents for free. enjoy the project ,I built a 30x40 pole-barn 3 years ago with the help of my wife , son , and brother-in-law it was a great project.

I agree, especially for a heated space. But with some of the modern hardware that is available, along with proper grade elevation and rollers at the door and it's "path", a 14'-20' + door can be the only way. Even a more conventional "large" overhead door say only 12wx14h can be $1500 easy.