JD 1025r pricing and any comments

[dmbtree82]

Hi everyone,

I decided last weekend that I need a new tractor for a couple acres I just bought. It is on a pretty good slope and is an old farm field so its a bit rough right now. I bought a used x340 in the fall and after cutting it once decided this may not be the best thing for the job. I did an ok job cutting, but I'm afraid its going to take too big of a beating and not hold up. When we build we're also going to have a 300' driveway which will probably be a modified base for quite a while. My original thought was to buy an old tractor with a 3pt to help turn the field into some nicer grass for the family. My new thought was to just buy a subcompact now that will last me hopefully a lifetime.

I wanted to get something with a close by dealer and started to look at John Deere (1023 or 1025), Kioti (cs2410) and Kubota (bx2370). I checked out the JD first and the seat and cruise control with the 1025 seem to make that the way to go for me. I then looked at Kioti and the price was almost $3,000 less than the JD. I drove it around and there were a few things I didn't like; seat comfort, loader control position, throttle lever force needed, steps to get loader off and trouble getting it in gear. The sales guy said its common to have to give the kioti a little gas as you put it in gear (this seems a little odd). I left there pretty much ruling it out. I looked at the Kubota this morning and the price was about $2000 less than the JD. I couldn't take one for a ride, but the dealer offered to bring one to my land to try out (definitely bonus points). My concerns with the Kubota are seat comfort, lack of cruise control, loader removal, rocker throttle and a broken off knob. The knob was behind the right foot and if its broken on a new one, how well will it hold up in the long run? My friend also has an 1870 that is about 7 years old and has had a few problems with it (multiple fans shrouds broken and the floor is rotting through already; this is garage kept).

It seems the Kioti and Kubota I was looking at are actually more comparable to the 1023; does that seem accurate?

Are any of my concerns unfounded or is it all personal preference?

I got a price of $16,500 for the 1025 with 60" deck (no auto connect) and the H120 loader; is this reasonable or out of line? The dealer doesn't seem too willing to negotiate that price any lower.

Thanks for listening to me and looking forward to any comments.

 

[s219]

Can't really go wrong with a BX or a 1025. I've driven tractors with twin HST pedals and others with the rocker treadle, and don't have a preference/problem either way. Cruise control is standard on some BX models, and optional (easily installed on others). I wouldn't let a broken knob be an issue -- the dealer should fix it before delivery. There are a lot of BX owners on here, and I don't recall broken knobs being a common thing.

Stuff like seat comfort and overall feel are personal preference, and something you need to evaluate for yourself (for example, some people don't like the rocker on Kubotas, some people don't like all the plastic body parts on the Deeres, etc). That's why it's so important to drive each tractor and really get an overall feel. Take your time, let yourself wander and explore the many options available. When I shopped for my first tractor a few years ago, I was sold on the Deere 1023 on paper/price, then the lousy seat pushed me to the 1026R (which later became the 1025R). Then I looked at the BX models but wasn't in love, so I drove a slightly larger Kubota B series and it was perfect. And priced just a few hundred more than the best deal I was seeing on a 1026R. I ended up with the B2920. The whole shopping process was fun and I learned a lot.

From what I see here, the best deals on Deeres and Kubotas are about 15% off MSRP. Sometimes rebates/incentives are part of the discount.

Good luck!

 

[94BULLITT]

I don't think that crusie control is a big deal on a tractor, I know it has it's uses though.

Check out this video.

 

[Ernie98]

Have you checked out the Massey Ferguson GC series?

 

[dmbtree82]

I think my thing with the knob was the position; its right behind my foot where it can easily get whacked and that appears to be what happened.

I looked at the Massey online, but don't have a dealer close enough that I want to deal with. Most of the time I will be using it for mowing so I think the cruise and easily removable loader are both important to me.

How important is the position control 3 pt? I think right now its not a big deal for me, but if I start finding out more and more uses for the tractor will that be something I wish I had?

 

[nikdfish]

Postion control is a big thing when you use rear implements that are dependant on hitch position for proper function. Inevitably you will need to temporarily raise (or lower) the implement for one reason or another and then lower it back to continue working.

Position control means you can get back to the exact right height without going through a trial and error series of approximations. The more frequently that happens, the more you benefit from position crontrol.

There is also the issue of hooking up implements, position control lets you move up or down in any increment you need and at any pace you choose. Without position control you move in discrete steps or jumps (i.e. inching).

Nick

 

[94BULLITT]

I think my thing with the knob was the position; its right behind my foot where it can easily get whacked and that appears to be what happened.

I looked at the Massey online, but don't have a dealer close enough that I want to deal with. Most of the time I will be using it for mowing so I think the cruise and easily removable loader are both important to me.

How important is the position control 3 pt? I think right now its not a big deal for me, but if I start finding out more and more uses for the tractor will that be something I wish I had?

I have used machines with cruise to mow. I don't see where it is beneficial. When you get to the end of your run you will need to disengage it to turn around.

The loader removes just as easy on the BX. Have you noticed that the JD does not have a center antiscalp wheel? It will scalp just like the video I posted shows.

Posistion control is nice but for no more than most people use a SCUT it is not necessary.

 

[dmbtree82]

Thanks for the position control info Nick.

My current mower has cruise and I used it the whole time mowing pretty much. I'm pretty tall so any time I'm able to move my legs on long stretches the better; this basically makes cruise a necessity for me. I do have a scalping concern though. Anyone with the 60" deck on a JD have any input?

I'm also sure I can find the opposite video showing how the JD is better and the Kubota weaknesses.

 

[arlen4720]

Try posting in the JD section. There are allot of 1025 owners here that can give you some feedback on the cut quality, and on the quick connect deck, if you want to go that route. I also know that there are 3 different options for raising the deck. 1) mechanical. It relies on the 3 point arms. 2) Standard hydraulic. This relies on an independent hydraulic cylinder, but you have to plug it into the loader valve. 3) Independent hydraulic. This is a cylinder AND an independent electro hydraulic valve. IMO the 3rd option is the way to go.
There are also heavier seat springs available if they seem too light. You might want to check out Green Tractor Talk also.

 

[94BULLITT]

I know someone that has a 1 series, it does scalp. The funny thing is a John Deere D140 that cost $2,000 has a center antiscalp wheel but the $2,000 7 iron deck does not have one. That is enough reason for me to not buy one if I wanted to mow with it. The deck on the 1 series only raises 4'' so you will have to take it off if you want to do anything more than mow. The BX deck raises to 6'' so you can actually do some work with it on the tractor.

You said you wanted a loader, did you see in the video that you can not raise and curl the loader at the same time but you can on the BX?

The 1 series a limited cat 1 3 point hitch, it is basically a cat 0 with cat 1 ball ends. It will not raise very high so you will be limited to what implements you can use. The BX has a Cat 1 3 point hitch. Implements for a full size tractor will work on a BX.

You said you are tall. Have you noticed how small the operators platform is on the 1 series? There is barley enough room for my size 13 foot to fit on it. The BX has a nice large operators platform.

The BX does have cruise control too.

 

[TuckerDog16]

I know my best friend just bought a 1025r. He said the he thought the comparable Kubota, was just as good of machine if not better, and he was really impressed with the Mahindra, which he thought was actually more tractor for your dollar, but in the end it was the quick attach systems that Deere came up with that put it over the top. It is actually pretty fricken slick how they came up with that. No bolts, pins, or getting ones fat but off the tractor to unhook the loader, or hook up the mower, just line it up and go pretty much. I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT OF THAT IF THEY HADN"T FIRST, I"M GOING TO SUE THEIR *****!

Myself I can see the handiness for a home owner, but at 20k! I think I would just buy a good zero turn, and restore an old 8n or Cub or something, but that just because I know everything when it doesn;t pertain to me personally

 

[dmbtree82]

I decided to go with the 1025r and will hopefully have it in a couple weeks. I really didn't care much for the pedal and seat on the Kubota, plus I have a friend with an 1860/70 who hasn't had great luck. Its blown several fan shrouds and the floor is rotted through on a garage kept machine.

For a little bit more money I decided my comfort is worth it on something I'll have for a long long time.

 

[nikdfish]

We picked up a 1025r FILB last year as a "house" tractor, basically looking for fel and backhoe functionality to compensate for the both of us getting older but still having stuff that needs doing. We went green again partially due to having a good working relationship with a nearby (<10 mi) JD dealership, plus availability of a decent deal (<19.2k @ 0% for 60 mo.). No complaints or regrets about doing so.

Nick

 

[dmbtree82]

Talked to the dealer this morning and looks like I'll have it delivered next Friday. That'll give me time to reinforce my shed floor. I built it in the fall not expecting to get this and its a 2x6 frame on 4x4 skids with a 3/4" PT deck. Anyone have concerns about the tractor going in there? I figure I may just need to put some more supports under the frame.

 

[DeereMann]

Thanks for the position control info Nick.

My current mower has cruise and I used it the whole time mowing pretty much. I'm pretty tall so any time I'm able to move my legs on long stretches the better; this basically makes cruise a necessity for me. I do have a scalping concern though. Anyone with the 60" deck on a JD have any input?

I'm also sure I can find the opposite video showing how the JD is better and the Kubota weaknesses.

Hi dmbtree82,

I have the Deere 1026R with 60" MMM (drive-over deck). I have only had a few minor scalp-nicks with it on some unreasonable yard lumps I should have flattened years ago (now that I have a FEL I will!).

Deere takes off the middle anti-scalp roller in order to fit the height adjustment arm for the front mower arms on the drive-over deck. I would buy it again if I did it over again.

Hope this helps,

 

[s219]

Talked to the dealer this morning and looks like I'll have it delivered next Friday. That'll give me time to reinforce my shed floor. I built it in the fall not expecting to get this and its a 2x6 frame on 4x4 skids with a 3/4" PT deck. Anyone have concerns about the tractor going in there? I figure I may just need to put some more supports under the frame.

If the 2x6 are on 12-16" centers and the 4x4 skids are spaced appropriately for the span, you really only need to put another layer of 3/4" plywood on the floor. Run the sheets 90 degrees to the direction of the first layer. Screw them down good. Just make sure the 4x4 skids are supported OK. I'd probably want them blocked at least every 2 feet even for light loads.

The 1025 is a pretty light tractor, so don't worry too much.

When I built sheds for a living, we'd have 2x6 floor framing spaced 12", on 4x4 skids spaced every 4 feet. Then block the skids every 2-4 feet depending on the duty rating of the shed. Double layers of plywood were used for folks that wanted to drive cars into their sheds. It was quite solid. A 1025 is going to be lighter than most cars.

Good luck!

 

[dmbtree82]

Thanks for the info S219.

The 2x6s are 16" on center and there are 3 skids (center and one each rougly 5' off center). The skids are resting on 4 piers in concrete about 30" in the ground and also blocks on the ground. Do you think I need another layer of 3/4" or will 1/2" be sufficient?

I'll defninitely pick up some more blocks for under the skids. Anything else you'd suggest?

 

[s219]

I'd probably stick with 3/4". It's generally got more plys per thickness than 1/2" can squeeze in and will do better spreading load. You will be amazed how much more rigid the floor becomes.

 

[dmbtree82]

Thanks again s219. I put down another layer this afternoon and will throw some more blocks underneath tomorrow. After that it should be all set to give a tractor a new home.

 

[Cherokee140]

I looked at them both very hard, I think the JD has a MUCH better seat over the Kubota. I ended up with the Kubota because mainly of the dealer and how the backhoe and loader attach, even I can do it and I don't move as well as I once did.. I really think they are all fine machines. The auto connect thing is the only thing I have been second guessing when I bought. It really is hard for ME to get that deck on and off.