New L3800 and a question

[elmer4413]

Hey folks. New here to the forum and I just bought a new Kubota L3800 with FEL. I haven't got to play I mean work with it yet but I'm getting excited. Anyhow I was wondering what size trailer I need to look for to put this tractor on with the FEL and a rotary tiller. Also will my Ford F150 with the 5.4 V8 pull this setup around? I won't be going any long distances just mainly 5-8 miles from farm to home. Also does it hurt to drive these tractors on the road for a few miles in 2WD? I friend told me it was hard on it to drive it on the highway. Looking forward to all of your knowledge!

 

[murphy1244]

:welcome:

 

[Bluegill2]

Nice tractor, congrats!

You truck will pull it just fine, just make sure your trailer is up to it.

Running the tractor on the road in 2wd isn't a problem.

Make sure you have 500 lb+ counter weight on the 3 pt hitch when using the loader.

 

[Carl_NH]

Welcome to TBN & Congratulations on your new tractor!

Probably a 16' trailer, dual axle with brakes would work well, but if this is 1-2 times a month and for 5 miles I would drive it, for the 30 minutes to drive will take you that time to load/unload, then you have the cost of the trailer and tags too.

I don't know about farm/tractor tags for road use for Ohio.

Also on insurance, if you get Kubota insurance I believe it covers you on and off your property. Most homeowner policies only cover the primary residence.

 

[k0ua]

One thing to consider about running on the road, especially with AG tires is tire wear. Once in a while would be OK, but all the time would not be. Ag tires wear pretty quick on dry pavement. I am not saying don't do it, just something to factor in.

 

[s219]

Truck will be just fine. Trailer should have tandem axles and brakes (so make sure you have a brake controller on the truck).

I put my L3200 with front loader and rear box blade on a 16' trailer, and still have enough room to move fore/aft to adjust tongue weight right. My trailer bed is flat. If a dovetail trailer, I'd say 18' minimum length just to be safe (I don't think I've seen a shorter dovetail anyhow).

I wouldn't worry about driving on the road in 2WD, but it won't be super comfortable on those Ag tires and you will wear them out. No suspension on tractors, so you will feel every nuance in the road.

Good luck! If you haven't done already, get the rear tires loaded!

 

[Fallon]

My L3200 & trailer maxes out my Toyota Tacoma v6 tow rating, but pulls reasonably well. I just got a 16' tilting deck trailer cheap at auction. The tractor & implement fit on fine, but the loader hangs several feet forward of the deck. Luckily it has a very long neck & the bucket sits a foot back from the jack.

The biggest problem with a 16' trailer is balance. I'd go with an 18 or 20 if you can so you have room to move things around & get proper tongue weight.

 

[TripleR]

Can't help with hauling advice, but we run our tractors on the road with Ags and Industrial just as does pretty much everyone else in my area as most own or farm multiple properties. As mentioned wear will be accelerated, but it takes a bit to really do any harm and it varies depending on the tires.

Our properties are four to six miles apart.

 

[k0ua]

Can't help with hauling advice, but we run our tractors on the road with Ags and Industrial just as does pretty much everyone else in my area as most own or farm multiple properties. As mentioned wear will be accelerated, but it takes a bit to really do any harm and it varies depending on the tires.

Our properties are four to six miles apart.

TripleR, do you see any difference in the wear rate of the AG's vs the Industrial's? I have heard it said that the AG's wear faster on dry pavement. Do you find that to be true, or are they about the same?

 

[AStanton]

Elmer,
Good luck with the new tractor. Your F-150 should be fine for short trips. I would get a 18-ft construction trailer and add a braking control device to your truck.
I drive my BX-25 around town in 2wheel drive with no problem.

 

[TripleR]

TripleR, do you see any difference in the wear rate of the AG's vs the Industrial's? I have heard it said that the AG's wear faster on dry pavement. Do you find that to be true, or are they about the same?

Yeah, our Ags wear faster than the Industrials.

 

[murphy1244]

R4s are harder rubber than the Ags

 

[TripleR]

R4s are harder rubber than the Ags

Oftentimes that's the case, but the Ags used on our renters JD 7000 and 8000 Series tractors are harder than my Industrials.

 

[murphy1244]

Oftentimes that's the case, but the Ags used on our renters JD 7000 and 8000 Series tractors are harder than my Industrials.

Then I should have said "Most R4s are harder than Ags"

 

[TripleR]

Then I should have said "Most R4s are harder than Ags"

Yeah, it's hard to say anything without some smart alec correcting you...:laughing: I didn't realize there were so many different types of Ag or Industrial tires until I had to be the one buying them, man it get confusing; what I don't know makes a much larger pile than what I do; funny but when I was much younger I seemed much smarter...well at least to me anyway.:laughing:

Sorry if I came off the wrong way.

 

[murphy1244]

Yeah, it's hard to say anything without some smart alec correcting you...:laughing: I didn't realize there were so many different types of Ag or Industrial tires until I had to be the one buying them, man it get confusing; what I don't know makes a much larger pile than what I do; funny but when I was much younger I seemed much smarter...well at least to me anyway.:laughing:

Sorry if I came off the wrong way.

Not offended my Friend, Seems R4's are made to be used on concrete and Ags are not.

 

[TripleR]

Not offended my Friend, Seems R4's are made to be used on concrete and Ags are not.

Yep, I "think" they started offering harder Ag tires is because so may tractors spend a lot of time on surface roads going between farms, our renters have land up to sixteen miles apart. Even with the harder compound there is only so much you can do with either tire type before you begin to hurt performance in one area or another.

 

[Fallon]

Not offended my Friend, Seems R4's are made to be used on concrete and Ags are not.

I'm sure that's correct. Ag pretty much means dirt, industrial not quite as much.

The other half of the equation is R4's are made for carrying capacity & flotation along with traction. R1s are designed pretty much exclusively for traction.

 

[Farmtruck]

I suggest staying off of dry pavement with AG tires. They wear quckly on pavement especially the front if you need to make turns. An 18 foot 7500 lb GVW car hauler with brakes should do good for the short trips.

 

[LD1]

For short trips, I'd say road it. IF less than ~8 miles, the time difference would be a wash.

My parents house is ~10 miles from me. I have made that trip about 8 times =~160 round trip miles
Where we cut wood is 3 miles. Made that about 25 times = 150 round trip miles
A few close bushhogging jobs and around the corner to my uncles a few times =~50 miles
A few others I cant remember =~40 miles

So I have put ~400 miles of road time on the tractor, and she sits with ~480hrs. (and not easy mowing hours). I'd rate my front tires ~40-50% and my rears ~70%

Given how long it takes to put hours on the tractor (and miles), and given the cost of a trailer, just drive the thing on the road if it is only every once in awhile like you said. Just gotta have a SMV sign and your flashers and lights on and you are good to go.