Magnetic Tank Heaters

[Frank Sorbello]

I have 2 Kat 300 watt magnetic tank heaters on either side of my hydraulic tank. Is it bad to leave them on for long periods of time and or over night. My pole barn is about 20 degrees f right now. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Frank

 

[Industrial Toys]

What is the hydraulic tank for? Not the Steiner obviously?

I don't see the harm unless you care about power consumption. I have a device that cycles my block heater on and off, either 10min on, 20 min off or vice versa depending on temperatures. Or I would build a cord assembly that puts them in series to use half the power, if that is enough heat.

I've been meaning to buy at least one of those magnetic heaters, but I never see much of a sale on these expensive critters.

 

[SpringHollow]

When I used to use them, I used a heavy duty timer to turn them on a few hours before i typically needed the tractor and then have them turn off. I do not see how they can bake your oil so it is just a question of paying the electrical bill.

Ken

 

[Frank Sorbello]

This morning it was 7 degrees out. went into my pole barn to try to start my 422. Went to move the the throttle and choke levers - they were frozen. I put a tarp over the tractor. put a 40,000 btu propane heater under it. Waited 20 minutes. It fired right up. I had three foot snow drifts all through out my driveway. It did a very nice job.

 

[buickanddeere]

This morning it was 7 degrees out. went into my pole barn to try to start my 422. Went to move the the throttle and choke levers - they were frozen. I put a tarp over the tractor. put a 40,000 btu propane heater under it. Waited 20 minutes. It fired right up. I had three foot snow drifts all through out my driveway. It did a very nice job.

http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles/file/2013_ZEROSTART_CATALOG.pdf Page 76. Costs less, takes less time and less likely to burn the tractor and shed down.

 

[grsthegreat]

or try one of these.....i have 3 on wall timers. works great

Wolverine Heaters - The Most Trusted Engine Oil Heater For Cold-Weather Starts


those magnetic heaters lose most of the heat to poor connection. i have 2 that were used for 2 days..ill send them for free...you pay shipping

those things suck like 500 watts per hour ( 2 hours = 1kw. if you pat 0.10 per KW for example, this unit will cost you $36.00 per month to use 24/7

a timer is real cheap. just plug the unit in night before you plan to use it and have it turn on for 2 hours prior to when you plan to operate it. If i know i wont be using the tractor of days...i dont bother plugging it in.

 

[SpringHollow]

I believe the PT425 is air cooled so a coolant heater will not work. And a magnetic, coolant, or oil heater will not help either. The problem is the cables were frozen. It has happened on mine. Because I have a diesel, when I shut off my tractor, I leave the throttle where I want it for starting and running. I have used a cable lubricator setup and it helps some.

Ken

 

[Industrial Toys]

What is a cable lubricator setup, because I have no end to the problems of freezing hydraulic control cables on account of the heat never gets to some of them but the pressure washer does!

 

[cqaigy2]

They typically have a rubber seal in a clamp that is tighten on one end of the cable with the wire sticking out. You use a spray type lubricant with the tube stuck into a hole on the side of the assembly and it forces the lube down along side the cable inside and thru the cable jacket down to the other end. Usually...sometimes

 

[SpringHollow]

I believe HF sells a cheap version .

Ken

 

[Industrial Toys]

Who is HF?

I had a miserible experience with a magnetic heater borrowed from a neighbour. I wanted to de-ice the fuel tank on my Kubota loader. Perfect setup. Squarish steel tank with the bottom raised lightly, so the heat kind of stays in there. In an unheated shed, the temperature of the tank was -14c as measured with a laser therm. Four hours later, it was still -8! There was about five gallons of fuel in there. I guess it's all basic physics and math, but that took too long for my liking, so I punched a hole in the ice after removing the drain cock and drained the tank. Then the heater melted the ice. Cleaned it out with boiling water.

Putting on such a heater for short periods would generally be of no use at all, I am thinking.

 

[MossRoad]

HF is Harbor Freight.

 

[ponytug]

Yes, it does come down to physics.

For most of us, heating the hydraulic tank is a monster heating job, since it has 10-20 gallons of oil, plus 1/4" steel frames to conduct away the heat. It takes lots of BTUs to make a difference. Put another way, for the PTs, one has to count on heating a significant fraction of the tractor mass to make a difference.

I think MR's route of getting it started and then using the engine to heat things may be a simple route- if you can get it started!

All the best,

Peter

 

[Industrial Toys]

As for the cable lubs. I did a search on E-Bay. They are all for bikes. Would that work on equipment remote valve and shifter cables? Bikes probably have similar braded cables for brakes and clutch.

Deffinitely have to get me one of those but I'd want to make sure the rubber is of good quality, not that typical chinese crap!

 

[cqaigy2]

As for the cable lubs. I did a search on E-Bay. They are all for bikes. Would that work on equipment remote valve and shifter cables? Bikes probably have similar braded cables for brakes and clutch.

Deffinitely have to get me one of those but I'd want to make sure the rubber is of good quality, not that typical chinese crap!

I have two, one from the 70's i got it for my motorcycle, and another one i just bought from Harbor Freight. I got the HF one just to check it out and it was on sale. They both seem to work the same.

 

[MossRoad]

Yes, it does come down to physics.

For most of us, heating the hydraulic tank is a monster heating job, since it has 10-20 gallons of oil, plus 1/4" steel frames to conduct away the heat. It takes lots of BTUs to make a difference. Put another way, for the PTs, one has to count on heating a significant fraction of the tractor mass to make a difference.

I think MR's route of getting it started and then using the engine to heat things may be a simple route- if you can get it started!

All the best,

Peter

Speaking of getting it going.... I had a lot of trouble Saturday and it was in the mid 20's! I think I'm having carb problems and its flooding. I ended up putting a battery charger/starter on it, shutting the throttle all the way off, choke all the way off and cranking it until it coughed. Cool off starter, wait, repeat. Took about 20 tries. Finally it took off. Then I had no problems starting it the next day following the same procedure of no throttle, no choke until it coughed, then gradually increasing the throttle. I know I've got carb problems because this fall I had to move that little tube out of the center of the carb intake over to the side or the vacuum would suck the life out of it. I see a carb rebuild in my future this spring. Anyhow, I needed it due to heavy snow and drifting over the weekend. Supposed to be -15 tonight, but no snow, so I'm not going out! :laughing:

 

[Marks481]

Yes, it does come down to physics. ....heating the hydraulic tank is a monster heating job

I have found that a magnetic heater is next to worthless for that job. Most magnetic heaters are 200-300 watts (I think mine is 200 Watts).

I have a 240V 5600 watt heater. I put it behind the PT, aimed straight between the wheels, 1-2 feet from the back. An hour of that makes a big difference.

 

[SpringHollow]

I had 2 magnetic heaters on my hydraulic tank and they definitely made a difference when it was cold. But yes, it is not the same as trying to heat an engine's oil pan.

Ken

 

[woodlandfarms]

78 in LA today. Put a glove on so my coffee wouldn't burn my hand this morning.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Speaking of getting it going.... I had a lot of trouble Saturday and it was in the mid 20's! I think I'm having carb problems and its flooding. I ended up putting a battery charger/starter on it, shutting the throttle all the way off, choke all the way off and cranking it until it coughed. Cool off starter, wait, repeat. Took about 20 tries. Finally it took off. Then I had no problems starting it the next day following the same procedure of no throttle, no choke until it coughed, then gradually increasing the throttle. I know I've got carb problems because this fall I had to move that little tube out of the center of the carb intake over to the side or the vacuum would suck the life out of it. I see a carb rebuild in my future this spring. Anyhow, I needed it due to heavy snow and drifting over the weekend. Supposed to be -15 tonight, but no snow, so I'm not going out! :laughing:

Do you use Ethanol gas or get the fancy stuff?