Stihl MS250 is very hard to pull wont start!

[mastercraftka]

I have had this MS 250 for just over a year, I used it last month with no issues took it out this weekend and I could barely pull the starter. I might get one rotation and moved but very difficult. The first thing I did was take the spark plug off and still the same issue. I then took the starter off and it rotates easily and I can spin the fly wheel easily as well no resistance. I then took the muffler off to see what I could see inside and saw nothing alarming. I can put the starter back on with spark plug and muffler off and still the same issue.

Anyone have any ideas?

Mike

 

[oldnslo]

Re: Sthil MS250 is very hard to pull wont start!

Since you state you can spin the fly wheel easily and starter assembly easily when they are separate pieces I would look for some form of binding when they are bolted together. Did a small piece of wood work its way into a point where it causes binding when the starter assembly is bolted to the engine?

 

[mastercraftka]

Re: Sthil MS250 is very hard to pull wont start!

I took it off and blew the starter out and the flywheel area out and I don't see anything obvious. The first time I took it off and put back on I could pull it several times (easier but not normal) but with every pull it would get harder and harder then back to almost not being able to pull it again. With the starter off it pulls free and easy.

 

[mastercraftka]

Re: Sthil MS250 is very hard to pull wont start!

I just realized I misspelled STIHL sorry.

 

[oldnslo]

Re: Sthil MS250 is very hard to pull wont start!

Sounds like you have something binding in the starter assembly if it builds over time. Not familiar with your model Stihl but does it have the plastic starter rope pulley? If yes is it possible that the rewind spring is being pinched from crud build up between the pulley and spring? My limited experience it that sawdust gets every where and then starts to cause things to bind.

Hopefully one of the Stihl experts will chime in shortly.

 

[mastercraftka]

Re: Sthil MS250 is very hard to pull wont start!

I understand and appreciate your thoughts, I feel like it is the starter but not knowing what normal looks like it is hard to compare. I just know that it pulls and retracts easy when not on the machine.

 

[Coyote machine]

Re: Sthil MS250 is very hard to pull wont start!

Sounds like you may have something caught up in the rewind spring assembly that prevents the spring from doing it's job. Try tapping it on a workbench and see if anything falls out. See if there are any missing screws or other small parts that could have jammed it up. You may have to disassemble the spring mechanism, carefully, or take it to a dealer to check it out if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.

You can correct spelling of Stihl by going to edit at the bottom of your original thread.

 

[mastercraftka]

I plan on inspecting further here in about one hour. Just baffling, if I can't figure it out tonight I am taking it to a shop tomorrow, just was hoping to save me a few $$$.

 

[mastercraftka]

I looked and saw nothing out of the ordinary but I don't know what it is supposed to look like. I know there is one black clip that flairs out when you pull that pushes the flywheel, is there supposed to be two?

 

[Coyote machine]

I looked and saw nothing out of the ordinary but I don't know what it is supposed to look like. I know there is one black clip that flairs out when you pull that pushes the flywheel, is there supposed to be two?

That depends on the model. It's called a 'pawl' and I used to have problems with my 086 which has very few hours on it. The cord mechanism would do the opposite of yours, it would let the line out with no resistance, and it would make starting impossible. I took it apart and found there was a place for a second pawl and had my dealer install one and it has not been a problem since. There was something about making them fit the slot without being too tight or sloppy, which was sometimes a matter of sanding the pawl down on the sides. I chose to get a second pawl installed ? Try your local dealer for your particular problems solution.

 

[mastercraftka]

I did notice there is a space for that and wondered if it could be added. I finally gave up and took it to a shop, he is swamped so it will be a couple of days before I know anything.

 

[mastercraftka]

Bad news from the shop. He says the flywheel shear pin is sheared and that when he turns it there feels like high spots or places where it is hard to turn. Saying that could be bearings or a bent crank. 200 plus to repair only paid 340 for the thing.

 

[s219]

Not under warranty?

 

[mastercraftka]

one year only! been just longer than one year, isn't that just a kick in the nuts?

 

[Coyote machine]

one year only! been just longer than one year, isn't that just a kick in the nuts?

Well if you're using it as a tractor I'm surprised it lasted this long!:shocked:


Have you plead your case to Stihl through your dealer? What say the dealer as to cause of the problem?

 

[mastercraftka]

lol ya not sure how that got there, definitely not my tractor.


I need to see what they will do I guess.

 

[Coyote machine]

lol ya not sure how that got there, definitely not my tractor.
I need to see what they will do I guess.

I sure would see if Stihl will do something for you if just off warranty. Can't hurt to ask, as well as seeing what your dealer has to say about what might have caused what happened, bearings or bent crank? I'd sure want to know cause/effect.

 

[oldnslo]

Bad news from the shop. He says the flywheel shear pin is sheared and that when he turns it there feels like high spots or places where it is hard to turn. Saying that could be bearings or a bent crank. 200 plus to repair only paid 340 for the thing.

Shear pin or flywheel key: I suspect flywheel key which on a lot of the newer small engines is molded into the flywheel. Bent shaft or bearing damage. Di he pull the flywheel to see if it is just the boogered up (tech term) flywheel vs bent shaft and or bearings?

I have seen two fail on weed eaters and on both of these I suspect it was a combination of poor casting on the flywheel and inertia from hitting stuff with cutting head and or just pull starting them. Neither of these had any damage to the crank.

Roy

 

[mastercraftka]

He did pull the flywheel off and his first question was did you drop it, and I said no which is true. I used it and put it up and month later pulled back out then had the problem. He feels it might be bearings, I am leaning to bent shaft.

I did email stihl and they said they were forwarding my email to someone else but haven't hear a word so far.

 

[Coyote machine]

He did pull the flywheel off and his first question was did you drop it, and I said no which is true. I used it and put it up and month later pulled back out then had the problem. He feels it might be bearings, I am leaning to bent shaft.

I did email stihl and they said they were forwarding my email to someone else but haven't hear a word so far.

One way bearings or crank can be damaged on a saw is when someone takes out the slack in the chain when the saw is hot. When it cools the chain then becomes too tight and damage occurs. What makes you lean to the crank being bent?