12 volt pump to lift farm implements question

[HCJtractor]

I need to lift a grain drill into the transport position but my tractor is at another property. Normally I just connect it to the rear remotes to lift it. Rather than trailering my tractor 30 miles, do you think it is possible to lift this drill with a 12V dump trailer pump? I have a nice double action Stone pump that I have never used. Can I use it to connect to this grain drill to lift it? My drill has standard Pioneer 1/2" quick connects. If I get the proper connectors, wouldn't this be adequate to lift this drill one time?

My other question involves fluids. My tractor uses standard Kubota hydraulic fluid. But my pump says to use Dextron. But is there a problem using the pump with dextran and having Kubota Fluid in the hydraulic lines of the implement? Or should I put kubota fluid in the 2 gal pump reservoir? I'm trying to avoid having to transport my tractor

 

[Dr Dave]

The pump should work fine, I think I would use the Kubota fluid.

Dave

 

[Tx Jim]

Yes the electric over hyd pump will work the cylinder just fine. That's what my J&I bale spike bed on my GMC pickup utilizes to operate 2 cylinders simultaneously.

 

[SaddleBronc]

Yes the electric over hyd pump will work the cylinder just fine. That's what my J&I bale spike bed on my GMC pickup utilizes to operate 2 cylinders simultaneously.

I've been thinking along these same lines. I'm purchasing some drawbar implements (3-bottom plow, chisel, offset disk) from a property 20 miles away, and would prefer not to "road" my tractor that distance.

I've been considering equipping my F350's J&I bale bed with a diverter valve setup that would let me use the electric/hydraulic pump to operate the hydraulic cylinders on the implements. Then I could use the truck to tow the gear home (slowly, of course) using the receiver hitch and ball mount to simulate the tractor's drawbar.

Anyone tried/done something similar?

 

[Tx Jim]

The hyd unit similar to the one on my J&I bed will do what you want as long as the cylinder you're trying to operate is a double acting cylinder. A single acting cylinder would quickly deplete the oil reservoir. For a one time operation have you considered a "ratchet jack" that you could insert in place of cylinder?

 

[J_J]

If the load is less than 1000 lbs, a linear actuator might work.

24.10" STROKE 1000 LBS 12 VDC LINEAR ACTUATOR

 

[SaddleBronc]

Thanks, guys...ideas/alternatives always appreciated. Been around farm gear all my life but just now getting into some of these details.

It occurs to me that the ratchet jack could be handy to have around long-term, and would be well suited for transport.

I can see that the PO has some collars on the hydraulic shaft to keep it extended for transport - is that a good practice?

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Do you guys not leave your equipment parked with the transport latches in place? Keeps the teeth/coulters/shanks/etc out of the dirt and can just hook up and drive away without needing the hydraulics connected. I've never seen anyone do differently

 

[SaddleBronc]

I've studied this equipment pretty closely, and see nothing that could be considered a "transport latch". The PO had one hydraulic cylinder that raised/lowered the wheels on all 3 implements, and just moved it around. That cylinder's status is unknown, but the hydraulic connections laid in the dirt/grass so long that they're unusable.

I know I can come up with solutions, but it would be much simpler if the implements were at my shop.

I'm definitely looking for the right way to do it, but want to make use of this old gear that is really solid and unbelievably priced.

EDIT: I found a picture of the plow, and maybe the area I've highlighted was once a transport latch, or at least a depth control of some sort. You can also see the existing cylinder. I have the wheels off, replacing the ancient/rotted rubber.

 

[aczlan]

I've been thinking along these same lines. I'm purchasing some drawbar implements (3-bottom plow, chisel, offset disk) from a property 20 miles away, and would prefer not to "road" my tractor that distance.
I've been considering equipping my F350's J&I bale bed with a diverter valve setup that would let me use the electric/hydraulic pump to operate the hydraulic cylinders on the implements. Then I could use the truck to tow the gear home (slowly, of course) using the receiver hitch and ball mount to simulate the tractor's drawbar.
Anyone tried/done something similar?

Assuming that this is the bed you are referring to: J&I MANUFACTURING - Truck Beds for Farm, Ranch, Welding, Oilfield and Industrial applications. how is it controlled? Is there just an up/down toggle, or is there a lever that you move to control a valve?
I would install a set of 1/2" "Pioneer Ag" quick connects (ie: Pioneer Quick Coupling, Standard Series, 1/2 in. Double Acting Sleeve Poppet, Standard ISO Interchange - Tractor Supply Co. ) in a clamp like this: Pioneer Double Breakaway Clamp - Tractor Supply Co. in some holes next to the trailer light plug.
For a diverter valve, I would use something like SAE 8 15 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-1 hooked between the current pump and cylinder.
If you use a switch or pendant to go up/down all you would need to add would be a SPDT switch somewhere that is tied into a power source thats on when the motor is on to choose if the bale spear or the rear remotes go up and down.

Aaron Z