Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables

   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #21  
Why put in a 150A circuit breaker for an 85A solenoid? It should be no more than 80 to protect things downstream. That would be like putting 30A breakers in place of your 15A in the house.
Are you planning to eliminate the trailer battery altogether, or just seriously augment the charge, kind of like a battery charger/starter cart? If your power pack on the trailer doesn't have the amp draw listed, Google your trailer or a similar model and see if it's in the specs.
 
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #22  
Tommy gates use a 150amp manual reset breaker.
 

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   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #23  
Flyerdan, I would like to eliminate the battery in the dump trailer. My knowledge of auto elect. is limited so I wasn't sure about the size breaker and solenoid. Should they match? I am not sure if dump motor draws 30A or 100A or 10A. Wire on dump battery looks to be 4ga which is why I got 4ga to run from truck. Of course since then I have found that due to the length of run, the wire probably should have been 2ga or 00. Mute now since already bought the wire. The breaker and solenoid idea came from my concern to protect the truck's electronics. Not in a rush to do this, but would like to do it well and safe (Safe for the truck also). Truck only 3 mos old and don't want any issues.
 
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Leonard,
As you can tell from the initial post, I installed this set-up on my 2012 F450. I have it hooked up to Upfitter switch #2 and installed the solenoid that came with the kit. I will have to go out and look at it to get the size and part number off it. The hardest part was figuring out where to put the solenoid, as there is no longer any place convenient under the hood. Using this set-up, I have not had any issues with other electronics in the truck and the folks at Ford haven't given me any static. One caution with taking the battery out of the trailer however. When I took my trailer in to get inspected, they said that the battery needed to remain in the trailer for it to pass the safety inspection - it's the backup power for the brake in the case of an emergency situation when the trailer separates from the truck while going down the road.

Hawk
 
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #25  
That sound about right Diamondpilot. By the way, do you happen to be associated with a Ford dealer. Your logo made me think that. If you are, could you tell me if by doing what I am thinking about have any warranty issues? Maybe your a pilot in which case I apologize for my misunderstanding.
Anyway, I am going to order a 12v 150amp curcuit breaker (Manual reset), and a 85amp solenoid(Weather resistant). Not sure if these should have matching amp size. And I still need to figure out the draw on the hydraulic pump on the dump trailer. The tag on the motor does not say. Anyone out there have an idea of the current draw or if this will or will not work?

No, I am the Chief Pilot/Department Manager for a company that erects cell phone towers and other such projects.

Chris
 
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #26  
And yes, you will still need a battery in the trailer, if for nothing more the brakes as mentioned above.

The law states the battery must supply enough power to hold the brakes locked for 15 minutes if the trailer were to become detached from the tow vehicle.

Chris
 
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #27  
Why put in a 150A circuit breaker for an 85A solenoid? It should be no more than 80 to protect things downstream. That would be like putting 30A breakers in place of your 15A in the house.
Are you planning to eliminate the trailer battery altogether, or just seriously augment the charge, kind of like a battery charger/starter cart? If your power pack on the trailer doesn't have the amp draw listed, Google your trailer or a similar model and see if it's in the specs.

liftgate builders all use 150 amp breakers and there hydro pumps are identical to a dump trailer, every truck i have had (all with liftgates) over the last 20 years have been wired that way.
 
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #28  
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #29  
Leonard,
As you can tell from the initial post, I installed this set-up on my 2012 F450. I have it hooked up to Upfitter switch #2 and installed the solenoid that came with the kit. I will have to go out and look at it to get the size and part number off it. The hardest part was figuring out where to put the solenoid, as there is no longer any place convenient under the hood. Using this set-up, I have not had any issues with other electronics in the truck and the folks at Ford haven't given me any static. One caution with taking the battery out of the trailer however. When I took my trailer in to get inspected, they said that the battery needed to remain in the trailer for it to pass the safety inspection - it's the backup power for the brake in the case of an emergency situation when the trailer separates from the truck while going down the road.

Hawk

You will need that power wire in your 7 pin working to keep the small brake battery charged.
 
   / Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables #30  
Flyerdan, I would like to eliminate the battery in the dump trailer. My knowledge of auto elect. is limited so I wasn't sure about the size breaker and solenoid. Should they match? I am not sure if dump motor draws 30A or 100A or 10A. Wire on dump battery looks to be 4ga which is why I got 4ga to run from truck. Of course since then I have found that due to the length of run, the wire probably should have been 2ga or 00. Mute now since already bought the wire. The breaker and solenoid idea came from my concern to protect the truck's electronics. Not in a rush to do this, but would like to do it well and safe (Safe for the truck also). Truck only 3 mos old and don't want any issues.

this is a quote from tommy lift, the waltco page also listed 200 amps max. I guess the breaker is of a time delay type that will carry more than its rating for a short time before it opens.
The Tommy Lift "Mini" model is available for all one ton pick-up trucks.Now available with aluminium platform
Tommy Lift Series 1000 Model Mini.
Capacity
- The series 1000 Tommy Lifts are electro-hydraulic tail lifts capable of raising and lowering 500kg
Mounting
- The Tommy Lift is designed to suit one ton pick-up trucks through to 7.5 ton GVW drop side trucks, flat beds, tippers,
Lutons and box bodies.
- Tommy Lifts are designed so that spare wheels can remain in original position and tow bars can be used.
Loading Platforms
- The standard loading platform is constructed in 12GA (2.6mm) steel with a fold out extension. Platform remains flush
with top of truck bed and will not obstruct driver's view.
Mechanical Features
- All critical components are fully enclosed in main frame of tail lift providing protection from elements and damage. Easy
access for servicing.
- Electro-hydraulic power unit which only runs when lifting.
- Pump: 12 volt DC unit / 205 amp draw / 3800psi pumping.
- Bushes with grease nipples on all pivot points for long wear and ease of maintenance.
- Zinc plated cylinder ram
 

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