Thanks zzvyb6 for the quick reply. I know it has a standard 7 pin connector but this will not run the hydraulics on the dump trailer. I believe at best it is a trickle charge. My problem with the onboard batt. is it goes dead if I have several short trips to dump. I have been using portable jumb chargers (Now carry 3 of them) but this is quite an inconvenience and they have to be charged also. I realize that I have an aging batt. and it may be time to replace it so ny thinking is for not much more money I can have all the power neede at any time for no more inconvenience.
Running Power to Rear of Truck for Dump Trailer, Winches, and Jumper Cables
- Thread starter SLHawkins
- Start date
- Views: 59627
Dr Dave. Yes. I think that is what I need. Since the solenoid is switched, a continuous duty will work. I like the fuse idea also. Don't know the amps the pump draws. Any idea what size fuse would work. Also, the truck electronics should be safe (I hope) which is one of my goals for this project. I assume the solenoid prevents any electrical backpedaling (For lack of a better word).
kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 9,835
- Location
- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
I use the 7 pin plug connector to power my dump trailer. It provides 12 v to the hyd pump/motor
bandaidmd
Platinum Member
For the price of that much 4ga cable you can buy a new battery.
If you decide to run a wire you will need a disconnect plug like tow trucks use for jumper cables, there also used as charger ports for golf carts. Any fender mounted ford style starter solenoid would work as a disconnect but it should also have a circuit breaker in the line. You will basically be copying the wireing of a hyd tailgate on a truck.
If your plugging into a factory wired trailer plug as soon as your trailer/pump battery has less juice than your trucks and you try to power the pump without unplugging you instantly blow the fuse in the truck and then the trailer battery wont be able to recharge, the circuit is not designed for that much load. We installed a isolater on ours so if anyone forgets to unplug before dumping it doesn't blow the fuse.
heres a scematic for a waltco liftgate, they mount the shutoff solenoid at the pump but yours will be near the truck battery. The pump on your trailer and a liftgate are pretty much identical with the exception some trailers have power down and liftgates always use gravity for down.
Add the disconnect in the diagram for your purposes
http://www.waltcoliftgates.com/navigator/parts_manual/mdl_series_ii.pdf
If you decide to run a wire you will need a disconnect plug like tow trucks use for jumper cables, there also used as charger ports for golf carts. Any fender mounted ford style starter solenoid would work as a disconnect but it should also have a circuit breaker in the line. You will basically be copying the wireing of a hyd tailgate on a truck.
If your plugging into a factory wired trailer plug as soon as your trailer/pump battery has less juice than your trucks and you try to power the pump without unplugging you instantly blow the fuse in the truck and then the trailer battery wont be able to recharge, the circuit is not designed for that much load. We installed a isolater on ours so if anyone forgets to unplug before dumping it doesn't blow the fuse.
heres a scematic for a waltco liftgate, they mount the shutoff solenoid at the pump but yours will be near the truck battery. The pump on your trailer and a liftgate are pretty much identical with the exception some trailers have power down and liftgates always use gravity for down.
Add the disconnect in the diagram for your purposes
http://www.waltcoliftgates.com/navigator/parts_manual/mdl_series_ii.pdf
kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 9,835
- Location
- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
I have a place for 1. The 1 that was there went bad. I haven't replaced it. been using it off the truck batt
Bandaidmd, yes I have connectors (Dell City). I agree that the circuit breaker is a good idea. Will research that now. I assume this means I do not need a fuse on the 4g wire and there is already a fuse for the upfitter switch. As far as cost, a good battery would cost $100 - $150 and so far I have spent $140 for 2-25ft 4g wire(Red, Black), 2 connector housings, 4 crim on connectors, and one crimper. For me, that is the cost of one battery that I know I will have to replace in the future and would still need my jumpers to use the dump trailer. With this setup, I should never run out of battery power since the alternator will be supplying most of the power. Although I will admit I am worried about issues with the trucks electronics (Computer etc.) which is why I like the breaker or fuses. I assume the solenoid and breaker guards agianst this problem.
Kenmac, that is the first time I have heard of a dump trailer working off the power from the plug in trailer connector. I always thought that the wire was too small to carry enough current and it was melt the wire or ruin the connector.
Kenmac, that is the first time I have heard of a dump trailer working off the power from the plug in trailer connector. I always thought that the wire was too small to carry enough current and it was melt the wire or ruin the connector.
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,316
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
I am sure his battery is powering the pump. It's just that the battery will not hold a charge so when he goes out and hitches up the truck puts enough charge into the battery to dump but after sitting for a day it would not.
Chris
That sound about right Diamondpilot. By the way, do you happen to be associated with a Ford dealer. Your logo made me think that. If you are, could you tell me if by doing what I am thinking about have any warranty issues? Maybe your a pilot in which case I apologize for my misunderstanding.
Anyway, I am going to order a 12v 150amp curcuit breaker (Manual reset), and a 85amp solenoid(Weather resistant). Not sure if these should have matching amp size. And I still need to figure out the draw on the hydraulic pump on the dump trailer. The tag on the motor does not say. Anyone out there have an idea of the current draw or if this will or will not work?
Anyway, I am going to order a 12v 150amp curcuit breaker (Manual reset), and a 85amp solenoid(Weather resistant). Not sure if these should have matching amp size. And I still need to figure out the draw on the hydraulic pump on the dump trailer. The tag on the motor does not say. Anyone out there have an idea of the current draw or if this will or will not work?
sld
Veteran Member
You should be able to get a decent idea of the current draw by any existing wire sizes on your 12V dump motor, I would hope.
The upfitter switch would work fine if all it does is power the solenoid. I have all 4 of my switches doing something but nothing with high amp draws. The 2 lights I mounted below the rear bumper might pull 10 amps. The others are topper light, 12V receptacle in the bed and the last one I used for high idle.
The upfitter switch would work fine if all it does is power the solenoid. I have all 4 of my switches doing something but nothing with high amp draws. The 2 lights I mounted below the rear bumper might pull 10 amps. The others are topper light, 12V receptacle in the bed and the last one I used for high idle.
