LOADER REMOVAL/CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT

[Rod Wood]

Hello guys,
I have a 2004 Jinma 28/4 y 385 engine ZL20 FEL I need to remove the loader and make the clutch adjustment to the pto, it grinds when trying to get the implements in gear. What are the procedures for removing the FEL and then Making the adjustments the pto clutch?? Any help at all will save me from my own mistakes,, thanks

 

[greg_g]

You might be able to fix that without removing the loader, although it would be more accurate to set the throwout bearing gap. Short of that, there's a stop bolt under the clutch release arm (sticking out of the transmission). Turning that bolt clockwise lets you push down farther on the clutch pedal. If that doesn't work, there's a threaded adjustment on the rod that connects the clutch pedal with the release arm. Adjusting the length of that rod affects the travel of the release arm as you push the pedal. Try adjusting the length of that rod until the PTO grinding stops. Good idea to mark the original position of the threads on both the stop bolt and the pull rod though, just in case this doesn't work. Because that's about all you can do regarding clutch adjustment - without actually splitting the tractor.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

greg_g , dealers and customers adjust the clutch's all the time thru the Bell housing ? Yes it can be adjusted, both the PTO and the Main clutch can.You will need to remove the Left or Right rear loader bracket, some people remove the complete loader. If you choose to leave the loader on you will need to use something to support that loader arm, during your clutch adjustment. If you need help with the adjustment give us a call we will be glad to try and help you

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[SPIKER]

here is step by step I did a while back and still saved on Johns Tractor page,

JMClutchAdj

once you are done, be sure to step back one layer to johns homestead page and save it to your bookmarks.

save this page for sure
JinmaInfo4

Mark M

 

[RonMar]

What mark said, great resource, Johns Jinma website...

When you say the PTO wants to grind when you try and engage it, how long are you waiting from when you push the pedal all the way in till when you try and move the lever? Even with the clutch properly adjusted, it still takes a second or two after you depress the pedal for the PTO gears to stop rotating.

 

[Rod Wood]

I am waiting at least 5 seconds historically the gears would slow then stop not any more

 

[Jinma284]

When you push the clutch all the way in does the pto stop turning, or do you have to take the pto out of gear to get it to stop?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Here's the way I like to do it: Get a helper. With the tractor off, put the PTO in gear. Remove the clutch switch. Have your helper push the clutch in all the way and go to the back of the tractor and see if you can turn the PTO output shaft. Adjust the stop bolt to the tightest setting where you can freely turn the output shaft. Put the clutch switch back and adjust it so that it closes when the pedal is against the bolt. If you put the switch in too much it will act as the clutch stop and you'll smash it when you stomp on the pedal.

If you don't have a helper to press on the clutch, I've found that a come-along on the pedal attached to something sturdy is good for holding the pedal down. Nothing else I could think of holds it securely all the way down.

If the PTO clutch needs adjusting it's likely the drive clutch does as well. There needs to be a gap between the clutch bearing and the clutch fork, otherwise the bearing will wear out quickly. As the clutch disk wears that gap shrinks. There is an inspection port on the side of the tractor. (If you have a front end loader the port cover is removed and the holes are used for a front-end-loader support.) Remove the cover. With the pedal released there should be a .1" gap between the bearing and the clutch fingers. Adjust the length of the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal to get that gap to 0.1" when the pedal is released.

The drive clutch adjustment affects the PTO clutch adjustment so the drive clutch should be done first.

There is a more involved adjustment that is done on the clutch itself to make sure all of the clutch fingers are pressing equally. That adjustment does not change with wear and should not need to be changed if it was set properly when the clutch was installed.The finger adjustment can also be used to adjust for wear but I find it simpler to adjust from the outside.

 

[RonMar]

A ratchet strap tie-down also works great for holding the clutch pedal fully depressed...

 

[Rich Waugh]

Nice clear description, QSF!

 

[greg_g]

Nice clear description, QSF!

Agreed. Same two things I was describing, albeit mine were troubleshooting steps to perform prior to actually dropping the loader mount (or splitting the tractor). QSF just did a better job.

//greg//

 

[Rod Wood]

Here's the way I like to do it: Get a helper. With the tractor off, put the PTO in gear. Remove the clutch switch. Have your helper push the clutch in all the way and go to the back of the tractor and see if you can turn the PTO output shaft. Adjust the stop bolt to the tightest setting where you can freely turn the output shaft. Put the clutch switch back and adjust it so that it closes when the pedal is against the bolt. If you put the switch in too much it will act as the clutch stop and you'll smash it when you stomp on the pedal.

If you don't have a helper to press on the clutch, I've found that a come-along on the pedal attached to something sturdy is good for holding the pedal down. Nothing else I could think of holds it securely all the way down.

If the PTO clutch needs adjusting it's likely the drive clutch does as well. There needs to be a gap between the clutch bearing and the clutch fork, otherwise the bearing will wear out quickly. As the clutch disk wears that gap shrinks. There is an inspection port on the side of the tractor. (If you have a front end loader the port cover is removed and the holes are used for a front-end-loader support.) Remove the cover. With the pedal released there should be a .1" gap between the bearing and the clutch fingers. Adjust the length of the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal to get that gap to 0.1" when the pedal is released.

The drive clutch adjustment affects the PTO clutch adjustment so the drive clutch should be done first.

There is a more involved adjustment that is done on the clutch itself to make sure all of the clutch fingers are pressing equally. That adjustment does not change with wear and should not need to be changed if it was set properly when the clutch was installed.The finger adjustment can also be used to adjust for wear but I find it simpler to adjust from the outside.

I agree QSF posted a very descriptive Comment, All Posts are helpful to me, I have printed this post I'm going to take it to my shop,
Thanks
Rod Wood

 

[quicksandfarmer]

There needs to be a gap between the clutch bearing and the clutch fork, otherwise the bearing will wear out quickly. As the clutch disk wears that gap shrinks.

Since I posted this I've been doubting myself. Did I get that right? There's enough moving parts in the clutch pack that it's easy to get backwards which direction things move in. But I think I did. As the disk wears the pressure plate moves closer to the flywheel. Pushing the fingers toward the flywheel moves the pressure plate away from the flywheel, so moving the pressure plate toward the flywheel moves the fingers away from the flywheel, toward the bearing, which closes the gap at the bearing.

With the two-stage clutch, there are two gaps that control its operation. The drive clutch gap controls how pedal travel before the drive clutch starts to disengage. The PTO clutch gap controls the amount of pedal travel before the PTO clutch starts to disengage. As the disks wear, the drive gap decreases and the PTO gap increases. So a clutch that has gone too long without adjustment has the bearing rubbing on the drive clutch, and won't disengage the PTO clutch even if the clutch is all the way in.

You can adjust both gaps inside the clutch, or you can compensate by adjusting the pedal travel. When the pedal is released and at the high extent of its travel the connecting rod can be adjusted to give the necessary gap at the bearing. When the pedal is depressed all the way in, at the low extent of its travel, the stop bolt can be adjusted to insure that the PTO clutch is fully disengaged.

 

[greg_g]

When you do this through the inspection window, there are two basic gaps to set. One is between the two halves of the clutchpack, and when set correctly should cause the transmission clutch to release at the 50% pedal point. The PTO should still be turning. The remaining 50% of pedal travel releases the PTO clutch. This is the one you cannot do from the outside. The second gap is between the TOB and the release fingers. Assuming all fingers are at an equal height, you make that adjustment at the threaded clutch pull rod on the outside of the tractor. If the finger height is seen to be unequal, it gets more complicated. You must get all three (or six) fingers adjusted to the point that they contact the TOB simultaneously. When that's the case, finger height should be done before adjusting the TOB gap.

//greg//