Converting a Travel Trailer

[dilligaf241]

Ok, need expert advise. I've acquired a 31' travel trailer that had extensive water damage. I have stripped it down to the frame. It has 10" I-beam main beams, 4500lb axles with brakes on both and should fit the bill nicely for a tractor hauler, GVW is around 9k. I intend to weld up a square tubing frame on top after I add some reinforcement between the rails. So here is where I wanted some advice. Was thinking 2x2 3/16 or 1/4 for the framework, with rectangle on the outer perimeter that would act as board retention as well. Where the crossbeams extend beyond the main beams I plan to put a 45 degree reinforcement down to the bottom of the I-beams. I'm also planning to dovetail the last 5 feet by cutting a wedge out and heating and bending the beam, then cutting the angle and adding reinforcement as needed. For the angle was thinking 11 degrees or so. Am I on target for the size of the square tubing? Welding will be done either with a Lincoln tombstone or 180 wire feeder. Including the required pictures. Thanks everyone.

 

[bcp]

You could very easily have the only equipment trailer in your area that has a toilet.

My only worry would be that many trailers and mobile homes seem to get part of their stiffness from the superstructure, since they often have lightweight metal in the frames, lighter than their size would suggest. I've seen some MH frames with about 10-12 inch I-beams that were less that 1/8 inch thick, and bare MH frames that won't even support their own weight without a sagging tail.

I've also seen some build with common structural steel shapes that looked much stronger.

Bruce

 

[dilligaf241]

Oh forgot to add the end use of this. I'll be hauling a 34hp Kubota 4wd with front loader and a bush hog or box blade, etc... Also intend to build a 3ft by 3ft by 8ft box on the front for small generator, gas compressor and tools/straps. The dry rolling weight on this as a travel trailer was around 6200 lbs.

 

[dilligaf241]

LOL, yeah still haven't gotten around to pulling that tank. I've done some checking and think that with the framework I plan to build that it would be more than strong enough for what I have planned for it.

 

[bandaidmd]

You may want to add up the weights of the new steel and your intended load to make sure your not going to overload your donor chassis.
Other than that the axel placement looks like its pretty far back ( you will be limited as to how the weight of your load is placed in relation to the axels) which is going to stress that long front section of frame more than what the camper did and add a lot of tongue weight.

edit; add in your decking weight also.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Most if all home built trailers like this end up way to heavy. I would start by weighing what you have, I bet it's nearly 2000# already. Then add in the steel and lumber and you will find its going to be tough to keep it under weight.

Axle placement is also important. On a utility trailer you want 65% of the deck forward of the axle center.

Chris

 

[Stimw]

I have built dozens of trailers, Repaired semi trailers for over 30 years, supervised 3 shops.
What seems like a good idea really is not going to turn out too well for a number of reasons.
Just for starters, have you priced steel lately?
I bought the 16' trailer in the pic for $700. needing repair and spent less than $100. more on it including building the bulkhead for hauling appliances and tall stuff.
I can haul around 5000 lbs on this one which will handle my 3510 Branson with FEL and Backhoe.
It has electric brakes and tows like a dream!!
I see these trailers all the time on CL for under $1000. How much are you going to have just in materials?
I love a project but I think you are trying to make apple cider out of orange juice.
Sorry to be so negative but I have seen it tried/done before.

 

[srs]

Stimw, not to hijack this thread but just curious as to what you are hauling on the trailer? Thanks, Stanley

 

[DavesTractor]

I can haul around 5000 lbs on this one which will handle my 3510 Branson with FEL and Backhoe.

Stimw, I think your Branson 3510 with a loader is almost 5000 lbs, plus your backhoe, so you are pushing your maximum if those are 3500 lb axles. With an 8620 backhoe and filled tires, a Branson 3510TLB can push close to 7000 lbs. Trailer looks good.

 

[RoMad]

I have also built a few trailers and repaired some too. I bought an old car hauler made from a travel trailer frame and converted it to a tractor hauler. I bought the car hauler for $200 and by the time I had bought lights, paint, some steel, and new tires I had $700 in it. That included getting the deck material for free. The bad news was that I had 15 to 20 hours of labor in it and when it was all done it still was pretty weak in the back and especially the corners due to the light weight tubing it was made from. I sold it for $1300 (it was big) and bought a nice factory made car hauler that pulls better and looks much better too.
My advice would be for you to sell the trailer frame as is for $200, find some easier way to make another $1000 and buy a trailer made for what you are going to use it for.

If you do decide to keep it, I would cut off the pieces that stick out the sides and make it as wide as the main beams. Also you should not need to put any tubing on top of the beams, just add stringers between them made from 3" junior channel.

 

[DavesTractor]

The I-beams look light duty compared to an equipment trailer. As many have said, the superstructure on the RV adds quite a bit of stiffness allowing for a lighter frame. You might consider shortening the trailer, then placing the axles in the optimum position based on that length. Add to that the reinforcements you are considering and it should make a nice 16-20' flatbed deck trailer.

 

[dilligaf241]

Ok, got a pretty accurate measurement on the frame today. It's just under 28' load area and the axle is set at right at 17'. That's right on the 60/40 ratio. The main I-beams are 10" and are 1/8" thick in the center and 1/4" on the top and bottom. I already planned on building my own cross bracing. Steel here isn't too bad on cost and there is a place near me that scraps and has a big pile of structural that they sell at .45 a lb. All in all, I'm going to go ahead with this project. Mainly because I have this one, I just put $600 in tires for it and I can spread out the spending over time and ease the load on me financially. Did get the suggestion to use channel instead of box due to the wet climate here, and think that's a good idea.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Good luck but I agree with most others the best thing to do is sell it for what you have in it and put that money into the right trailer. In the long run you will be money ahead.

Figure you will have 30 hours into this one and probably $750 more in materials. Use that 30 hours to get some overtime at work or do a side job with your tractor. You will be happier in the long run.

This is coming from a guy with 20 plus years in the trailer business.

Chris

 

[dilligaf241]

That would be something to consider except that I work in law enforcement, so there is no such thing as overtime. Side jobs are why I'm doing this. I have been offered several but can't take them without a way to move the tractor. Also my wife has decided that we are in debt reduction mode right now so that puts a stop through just going to the bank and savings just got hit to pay off some liabilities.

 

[yelbike]

I see the point of selling and buying the correct trailer but built it, take pictures, post them. I'm sure lost of us will watch. I too have thought of the same project but just don't have the time. Good luck.

 

[kenmac]

That would be something to consider except that I work in law enforcement, so there is no such thing as overtime. Side jobs are why I'm doing this. I have been offered several but can't take them without a way to move the tractor. Also my wife has decided that we are in debt reduction mode right now so that puts a stop through just going to the bank and savings just got hit to pay off some liabilities.

I hear you . Pay as you go and don't take out a loan to buy a trailer. You may have a little more in it when finished, but it will be paid for. If you know what you're doing, it should work out ok for ya. Just check your weight . You don't want to over load your axles/tires. I went through the weight issue adding to make my 18' a 20' trailer. I had to up grade to 5200 lb axles and E rated tires

 

[timswi]

I also agree with the others in regards to buying a purpose built trailer...That said, if I was going to do this, I'd cut it down to a max of 20' and do some serious reinforcement. TT's really aren't built for concentrated weight, and the superstructure keeps it square and stable. At 28' you are going to have one heavy and unwieldy trailer.

 

[Diamondpilot]

No OT in law enforcement? I have two cop buddies and all they do is work security and OT. Must be a departmental thing.

I truly believe that in the long run you will be money ahead. I have seen this situation before.

By the way, I have a trailer and truck. In 19 plus years of owning trailers for my tractors there is two things I have learned. First is I don't use it nearly as much as I thought I would. Second is if it's 5 to 7 miles away I just drive the tractor. It's quicker. By the time you hitch up, check the tires, load the tractor, strap it down, drive there, and unload I can be 5 to 7 miles down the road driving my tractor.

Something to think about.

By the way, I would not be without my trailer either.

Chris

 

[timswi]

No OT in law enforcement? I have two cop buddies and all they do is work security and OT. Must be a departmental thing.

I truly believe that in the long run you will be money ahead. I have seen this situation before.

By the way, I have a trailer and truck. In 19 plus years of owning trailers for my tractors there is two things I have learned. First is I don't use it nearly as much as I thought I would. Second is if it's 5 to 7 miles away I just drive the tractor. It's quicker. By the time you hitch up, check the tires, load the tractor, strap it down, drive there, and unload I can be 5 to 7 miles down the road driving my tractor.

Something to think about.



By the way, I would not be without my trailer either.



Chris

There are salaried people in law enforcement. That's what I read into that.

 

[dilligaf241]

No, We are comp'd out. They can't afford to pay it anymore. Budget cuts every time we turn around. I don't get details because I'm a Corrections Officer. Never liked the idea of being in a car all day or night long. Guess being locked in with the criminals wasn't much of an improvement but after almost 20 years I can't afford to get out now. I agree on the 5 mile thing, I have done that a few times, but it's really rural here and most everything is more than that away from me.