Grizzly has been put to work.

kg7il · Oct 23, 2013

It's not everything that I wanted it to be, but it is doing the job.

My wife thought maybe I was avoiding the work and welding instead

kg7il · Oct 23, 2013

A few more shots

Dan W · Oct 24, 2013

KG7IL, this machine looks like it works and has no engine shaker either to vibrate it,
This is what I like about TBN, someone tries something and proves it out for everyone else to benefit from,
Please let me (us all) know whether you will make modification or this is it, because I'm going to build one just like yours, without the 5HP engine which I originally intended doing and all the work to install it.
Thanks, nice quick & easy and it works...
Dan

Piston · Oct 24, 2013

That's a great idea. I recently was looking at the screener being advertised on here for around 3 grand (I can't think of the name????) You have something very similar and cost next to nothing, might be a good project someday for me

So, how well does it work? What did you put your spacing at? I was thinking of using some heavy duty rebar for the screening rods.

kg7il · Oct 24, 2013

I don't think I have major changes to make.
This is based more on that it is working and I don't want to sink any money into the project.

I used angle iron spaced about 1 3/4 I still plan on the smaller screen that lays on top. My brother in law has the material. just a matter of time.

I think rebar could be made to work. Just allow for a greater than 45 degree angle to clear occasionally.

My slotted verticals hold the chain that adjusts the angle. Lifting the high end increases the angle. I can do this with the bucket while working.

I used cheap 1 inch square tube to hold the verticles while welding. It's still there and I use it to lift and move the rig.
Sure it bends a bit but were are talking tractors and rocks. the bucket slides up the grizzly and rig hangs well for moving.
I keep it low (real low) if traveling much of a distance.

I think that it works very good for my purpose. Sod sucks and hangs up the material. But once it's out of the way, it clears well.
If I do get sod hanging up, I either scrape the grizzly with the bucket, or toss some of them by hand.

If I chop the sod into smaller pieces with the bucket, I don't have as much as a problem.

What doesn't show well in the picture is that I have 2 sheets of OSB, faced with plywood, backed by a front lip frame to use as a backstop for the bucket clearing the rocks. I did not have this when I first tried it and went right back up to the shop and fixed this.

A separator and backstop is a must.

I'll post more. Once the chill leaves the air, I am going to get back out there today.

Shield Arc · Oct 27, 2013

Looks like it is doing a fantastic job! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

kg7il · Oct 27, 2013

Shield Arc said:
Looks like it is doing a fantastic job! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Yes, it's definitely doing the job. I have abused it quite a bit already, and all the weld's continue to hold.

My (2) BIL's and I discussed some changes we might make based on some free stuff I might get from them

I definitely need to build my planned screens to reduce the pass-thru size.
Everythings was done with my WeldPak 125HD FluxCore. No new welder yet!

Shield Arc · Oct 27, 2013

You must have done a very good job on it:thumbsup:. If you run into something that your machine is to small for, you could always run up here, and I'll buzz it together for you.

David Devuono · Oct 29, 2013

Which side are you loading it from. I figured with my B3200, I can't go much higher then 5.5 feet. If you are loading from the backside (sloped side), any issues with Rocks hitting the tractor as they roll down.

kg7il · Oct 30, 2013

David Devuono said:
Which side are you loading it from. I figured with my B3200, I can't go much higher then 5.5 feet. If you are loading from the backside (sloped side), any issues with Rocks hitting the tractor as they roll down.

While I am churning new earth, I load from the high side. After a long run, and the rocks build up. I will clear the low side and redump some material. Bigger rocks come rolling down and YES, they do hit the tractor. I am ok with some dings and dents.
You may wish to avoid this side.

You will need to design yours to accept your 'dump-over-height' It is probably higher than you think. You can go just under the level bottom of your bucket. AT 45 degrees, the grill falls away quickly and allows your bucket to empty at 45 degrees also.

I have used it enough to determine a couple of design change. I'll try to post pics.
1. Stronger Top Bar. This was originally to hold it square while welding and I left it. It works great as a carry bar, but it's not up to the task. I also use it to shake the unit to clear sod and hung-up rocks.

2. Better lips to retain the OSB side boards. Right now they slide in and are held in place by friction. I have to re-install the same boards after they vibrate loose.

3. No need for angled feet to slide the unit, I just pick it up.

4. Add on screen to reduce pass size. Now that I have done about 30 yards, I think I have too many 1.5" rocks

I still think multiple passes will be easier than trying to reduce it in one pass.

kg7il · Nov 1, 2013

I tackled #4 above and created an add on screen to reduce the pass size.
Material is running low, so I tried Rebar attached to the 1" square tube.
I welded to vertical pins to the main frame that holds the tube from sliding down the tube.
It is also constrained from moving sideways.
At the bottom, I have a small pin that sets into the center angle bar to keep the bottom edge from sliding sideways.

Still working well, But I sure have a lot more rocks. (and smaller ones at that) to move out of the area.

Since the angle iron takes about 1/2 the force, rebar seems to work 'ok'. The slight flex of the rebar does make clearing stuck rocks easier than when he bigger rocks got jammed between the rigid angles.

kg7il · Nov 1, 2013

I will continue to share my experience with my Grizzly.

kg7il said:
2. Better lips to retain the OSB side boards. Right now they slide in and are held in place by friction. I have to re-install the same boards after they vibrate loose.

3. No need for angled feet to slide the unit, I just pick it up.

On the main foot rail, just left of the angled feet, you can see the small angle iron used to retain the osb.
You can also see that the separator doesn't like it's pounding and needs a brace. Still works for now

New Item 5. Frame needs add'l support if I want this thing to last a long time. The frame side (now horizontal for maintenance) is a single angle and is carrying more of a load that I thought (my pounding mostly). Need to build a simple truss of rebar.

kg7il · Nov 1, 2013

Here are the pins to hold the rebar grill that reduces the pass size.
Two 1" square tube on the frame top. only one corner is shown

One 6" piece of rebar on the bottom center. slides into the angle on the main screen frame

rebar grill slides up, locking the bottom with the pin, then drops over the square pins on top.

Last photo shows the rocks out a couple of previously run material.

Whitnel · Nov 1, 2013

Nice and simple. I should have made one of these when I bought my property a few years back. I probably could have gotten more done than using the rock bucket method and saved some ware and tear on my tractor.

kg7il · Nov 1, 2013

Whitnel said:
Nice and simple. I should have made one of these

I just couldn't come close to justifying $3,000 for one. I'm trying to keep it simple and easy to reproduce.
As far as wear and tear on the tractor, I have spend a couple of days jockeying the tractor back and forth for load after load.

Renze · Nov 3, 2013

yesterday while using a spare bale fork tine as a prybar, it occurred to me that these are the ideal material for a vibrating grizzly. They are hardened, cheap (if bought from the right wholesale supplier) the slot between them is tapered so rocks dont jam between them, and they can vibrate individually so rocks dont jam between them.

kg7il · Nov 3, 2013

Renze said:
bale fork tine . . are the ideal material for a vibrating grizzly.

I'd be interested in seeing a picture of what you have. An internet search showed quite a few types.

Are you thinking of the ones with a thread end and nut, possibly attached to the upper cross-member

2458n · Nov 3, 2013

I thought your taters were mighty big till I saw that piece of firewood by your tractor. very nice build and it is doing what you want.

Renze · Nov 4, 2013

kg7il said:
I'd be interested in seeing a picture of what you have. An internet search showed quite a few types.

I mean the tapered forged I beam type. Very strong, light, and tapered so any material that jams, will be tickled loose by other material rolling downhill. Tapered off course means tapered both on the tine end, as well as on the end thats put through a heavy walled tube.

kg7il said:
Are you thinking of the ones with a thread end and nut, possibly attached to the upper cross-member

yes indeed, like these, except for no crossbolt but a threaded end on the tine, with a tapered washer so that it spans tight from both ends, otherwise it will cave out the hole in a matter of days.
http://www.hayspear.com/media/img/panrack/-/hay_spears/hay_bale_spear_tine_fork_square_1785.jpg

What i'm actually wanting to make a grizzly for, is because i fantasize about building a jaw rock crusher for some years now, i'm saving up heavy H and C beams as its the cheapest way to get big steel, and the company i work for is going poor so most likely i will be unemployed next month, which gives me time to invest some savings in a hobby project which will, if succesfull, result in some revenue by renting it to local farmers. I watched allmost all Youtube videos on rock crushers, seen no home made jaw crusher other than a single brick model, and read university thesis of students from germany, sweden, India and the USA on the subject, however there is no definate clue on how to calculate the max force excerted on the crusher before the rock gives way. only indicational clues, so it will come down to educated guessing, as i dont have hard data to base any strength calculation on...

Anyways, for this application i only need a grizzly as wide as the crusher will be so the number of tines i need to sieve out undersized material wont be so big, i'm still deciding between 500 or 600mm (20 or 24") width (depending on the size of flywheels and other freebies or scrap value materials i can put my hands on) , for a vibrating grizzly as a feed hopper bottom which i will fill with the front loader.