shuts off when jumper cables removed

[rich bx]

this Spring, I bought an BX 23 with 354 hrs on the meter.
When I went to "check it out" it cranked right up... I ran it a bit, shut it off, cranked it up
shut it off, chatted with the PO, struck the deal, then started it back up drove it over to his shed to store for what became 4 weeks b4 I went back to get it.
When I went back to get it, it cranked right up, drove it on the trailer, drove it home (1hr plus drive).
Left it at the street over night, got up next morning started right up parked it. 2 weeks later did the 300 hr service, started right up.
After in the garage with no fluids for a few days, replaced all the filters and fluids, went to crank it up, nothin.
Not even a click.
Took the battery out, brang it Auto zone, they put it on the tester (free), it was completely dead.
I guess I never knew a battery could go from perfectly fine to completely dead (can't hold charge at all) so quickly.
FWIW.

 

[robbyr]

Same with our aforementioned Kubota RTV. Fine and dandy then all of sudden nothing.

 

[Mr. Ace]

Identical situation happened on my B2320 . Had battery completely tested at auto supply store and it was bad . New battery and no problem since . That was a year ago .

Same happened to my B2320 battery, @ 70 hours - successfully jumped started, but engine cut out when I disconnected jumper battery. Tried to charge the OEM battery, but wouldn't even hold a charge. Acquired a new battery last month and all is well.

 

[FTG-05]

[snip]

I've seen tractors that use all 3. I'm not a kubota guy. OP stated dynamo. I answered based on 'dynamo'.....

Actually, the OP stated alternator in his first post (and then dynamo in a later post), plus the BX2320 comes with a 14.5 amp alternator per TD: TractorData.com Kubota B2320 tractor information

As far as this problem is is concerned, please don't disconnect the battery while the engine is running, this is an excellent way to destroy/damage vehicle electronics (if any) and/or the alternator itself.

My bet: Bad battery.

Good luck!

 

[Leejohn]

But not on a Kubota B2320 which is what this thread was started about as it has an electrically operated fuel controller

Jim I think you are right about the B2320. I checked my t1600 and bx2660 today and they well start without a battery. With key off solenoid is open. After running, when you turn off relay-timer puts voltage to solenoid and shuts it off, then after a few sec. voltage stops and the solenoid opens ready for start up.
Now on my B7800 and l4240 it seems to be on or off. Key on solenoid open, key off solenoid closed and doesn't seem to reopen. If you can hold the fuel solenoid open with something they well start and run.

 

[Soundguy]

i don't recall ever advising to disconnect the battery? you must have read that is someone else's post.

easy way to kill an alt.

Actually, the OP stated alternator in his first post (and then dynamo in a later post), plus the BX2320 comes with a 14.5 amp alternator per TD: TractorData.com Kubota B2320 tractor information

As far as this problem is is concerned, please don't disconnect the battery while the engine is running, this is an excellent way to destroy/damage vehicle electronics (if any) and/or the alternator itself.

My bet: Bad battery.

Good luck!

 

[dodge man]

It probably has an electronic lift pump but sometimes they will run anyway, the main injection pump will draw enough to keep it running.

 

[FTG-05]

i don't recall ever advising to disconnect the battery? you must have read that is someone else's post.

easy way to kill an alt.

You didn't! I didn't mean to imply you did either, should have left more space between the two paragraphs to help make that clear.

That's a general "FYI" I give in pretty much all "battery or alternator" problem type threads. You'll almost always get someone to give the old generator-type advice of disconnecting the battery as a troubleshooting step. Good idea for a generator, bad idea for an alternator.

Thanks,

 

[Soundguy]

i don't even like doing it to a generator. same deal.. just no electronics. there is a voltage spke based on load dropping..

You didn't! I didn't mean to imply you did either, should have left more space between the two paragraphs to help make that clear.

That's a general "FYI" I give in pretty much all "battery or alternator" problem type threads. You'll almost always get someone to give the old generator-type advice of disconnecting the battery as a troubleshooting step. Good idea for a generator, bad idea for an alternator.

Thanks,

 

[chip6700]

got a new battery and so far so good. will let you know if that doesn't fix it. thanks everyone for your responses they were very helpful.

 

[foreman Etexas]

That's great was just battery,sorry I wrong.

 

[TomSeller]

got a new battery and so far so good. will let you know if that doesn't fix it. thanks everyone for your responses they were very helpful.

What actual brand battery was in it? Three members had the same problem it sounds like.

 

[chip6700]

mine was the original battery and tractor was only 3 1/2 years old, but sits awhile between uses. i had advance test it and they said there was a bad cell.

 

[TomSeller]

mine was the original battery and tractor was only 3 1/2 years old, but sits awhile between uses. i had advance test it and they said there was a bad cell.

Just curious who made it for Kubota.

 

[swatter]

many diesels have a fuel lift pump built into the front end of the injection pump. some machines also have cam driven fuel pumps, not to mention.. many times tanks are perched for gravity feed to the IP. all depends on the setup... as long as nothing is killing a fuel-shutoff solenoid. a diesel .. an older diesel.. don't need a battery.. With a striaght gear trans, you could park on a hill, roll her started and run all day as long as you had say.. a mechanical oil pressure gauge and not an idiot lamp... and never need a single volt / amp of electricity.. at the end of the day, fuel up and park on the hill again. I know some farmers that have tractors with bad starters that STILL do that... couple that with manual fuel kill cables like my ford 1000 series have.. and you are good to go.

This reminds me when I was operating a lull forklift. I was loading trash on a old diesel dump truck. I dumped a load and pushed it to the front. Since I was not the driver of the old truck I had no idea that the driver just left it in 1st gear without the parking brake on. I continued loading, compacting and pushing the trash. Well the truck lunged forward and it started to sputter and the old girl came to life. Luckily granny gear is not that fast and I was able to jump in and apply the brakes before it hit a building.

 

[Soundguy]

Yikes!

Reminds me of when I was putting a crank pulley on my farmall C. I had her blocked up on timber under the torque tube., rears were on. entire front end and all tin and steering and everything but block and pan was off. i had just repalce dthe timing cover and was using a plate and bolt to pull on the crank pulley. I had her in gear.. i noticed she was inching forward under the pressure of the air gun spinning the crank slightly as it was pulling the pulley on. I had to quickly stop before i 'drove her' off the timber.. and onto me!

brakes and wheel chocks after that.. plus rear cribbing!