Looking for info on this logging winch

[rasorbackq]

Made by Normet . Think that's Farmi. Looking for an age and pull rate. 36" PV for scale.
Thanks.

 

[rasorbackq]

someone must know something about this winch.

 

[VroomVroom]

Interesting, I am tempted to make one in about a year, or at least this winter coming. I have thought about buying the proper clutch and use my own steel. I'm amazed no one is answering back, I'm curious myself. From NL

 

[Gordon Gould]

That must be an older winch, before Farmi maybe. It looks to be close to the size and shape ( except for the blade ) of my Farmi JL291 and I can see alot of design similarities. My JL291 has a 6400 lb pull rating which you can do quite a bit with. Looks like it would go good on a small to medium tractor.
Sorry I can't help more

 

[Coyote machine]

Looks a lot like a Farmi- obvious not their latest model. As stated it looks like it would work well on a smaller tractor say 40HP or under.
How much do they want for it?

 

[rasorbackq]

They had it on a 50 hp tractor and were asking $1500. I bought it for $1200. More then I wanted to pay but not alot of selection for a used winch.

 

[Gordon Gould]

It is a little rusty but doesn't look like it was abused. I would say you did pretty good. Good luck with it.

 

[rasorbackq]

Not sure if they all have to pull the string that hard to get them to winch in. Its missing the tube and top pulley that the winch string ran through to lift the lever to engage the winch. So you have to stand net to the winch and pull the lever up to engage the winch.
( right by the cable )

 

[rasorbackq]

Its a JL 351

The JL 351 model has adjustable outrigger stabilizer legs. The bottom of the legs has a "toe" which can be used to bunch trees at the landing. The open design does not interfere with the drawbar on most tractors so a log trailer can be pulled without removing the winch.

The clutch control rope runs through a swivel on top of the winch. The winch can therefore be operated from any direction. This is an important feature for the operator as he can control the winch from a place where he can see the load as he is pulling it in. Good vision will enable the operator to prevent loads from hooking up behind stumps and roots and also to reduce damage on the remaining trees.

This feature also enhances operator safety and production. Without leaving the tractor seat, one can release the load, drive out of adverse conditions and winch the load in again. When winching from the tractor seat, one must have the optional protective screen installed between the winch and the operator. The clutch enables the operator to select any pull from zero to maximum pull of the winch. The clutch will slip when the load is heavier than the selected pull. This prevents damage to the cable or winch even if the load gets hooked behind stump or root.

The clutch has a 5 year parts warranty.

A new clutch can be riveted on he old sprocket so the clutch is easy and inexpensive to replace. The sturdy upper sprocket acts as a heat sink and absorbs the heat generated in the clutch when winching, so the clutch will not burn out.

The winch frame is high. The high point of pull is very beneficial as it creates down-pressure on the winch when winching. The down-pressure pushes the blade or legs into the ground which anchors the winch and tractor in place.

After the logs are winched in, one slips the cable under the lower snatchblock for skidding the load out. The lower snatch-block lowers the point of pull so one can pull out much larger loads. The thin winch frame keeps the weight close to the tractor, large net loads can therefore be skidded out. ROPS cab, and front end weight or front end loader is a must.

Four logs can be winched in and skidded out hooked to the cable. An additiona

 

[Coyote machine]

Not sure if they all have to pull the string that hard to get them to winch in. Its missing the tube and top pulley that the winch string ran through to lift the lever to engage the winch. So you have to stand net to the winch and pull the lever up to engage the winch.
( right by the cable )

You can easily fix that, in the meantime you can engage the winch at low RPMs and then bump it up or down at the throttle an disengage the PTO instead of getting near the winch when pulling logs in.
Have fun, be safe.

 

[rasorbackq]

After looking a bit harder there was a tub installed but the pulley was missing. I welded up a pulley holder and dropped it in Tried the winch seemed to work OK but would have thought that 3.5 ton winch would stop the planets spin. Seems other stumps and banks and hill dig ins can stop this winch quickly.

 

[Coyote machine]

The winch may need some adjustments. What RPMs are you pulling at? What condition is the clutch in? You can also double your pulling strength by using a snatch block pully. I use this clamshell type and it works great!
4050 Snatch Block (3/8" wire x 4" sheave)

 

[rasorbackq]

Pulling at just above idle. What kind of adjustments are you talking about? How does one check the clutch?

 

[Coyote machine]

Pulling at just above idle. What kind of adjustments are you talking about? How does one check the clutch?

Is there a PTO cat 1 max mark on your speedo head? If so, in theory, IF everything is in working order you should be able to pull at speeds up to that limit or close to it. At idle you will get what you have: nothing.
Clutch works like any other, or at least similar- it pulls the load until the load is too big and then it would tend to slip, or in my case break the cable while under tension. You'll know if it's slipping- burning smell or poor performance based on what it was doing prior to slipping.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I respectfully disagree Coyote. Pulling at high RPMs will not gain you much if any pulling force. It will only increase the chances of brealing something or getting hurt because things are moving to fast. The thing that produces the pulling power of your winch is the torque output in ft-lbs of your pto shaft which is driven by your tractor deisel engine. Tractor engines have very flat torque curves. That means that you get the about the same torque or winch pulling force over a wide range of RPMs once you get above idle.
My tractor runs 900 to 2700 RPM. I run the winch between 1200 and 1800, usually 1500.

Running at high RPM will give the log more momentum because it is moving faster. It might bust thru a root or it might catch on it and do a big cart wheel right at you before you can blink.

 

[Coyote machine]

I respectfully disagree Coyote. Pulling at high RPMs will not gain you much if any pulling force. It will only increase the chances of brealing something or getting hurt because things are moving to fast. The thing that produces the pulling power of your winch is the torque output in ft-lbs of your pto shaft which is driven by your tractor deisel engine. Tractor engines have very flat torque curves. That means that you get the about the same torque or winch pulling force over a wide range of RPMs once you get above idle.
My tractor runs 900 to 2700 RPM. I run the winch between 1200 and 1800, usually 1500.

Running at high RPM will give the log more momentum because it is moving faster. It might bust thru a root or it might catch on it and do a big cart wheel right at you before you can blink.

You're right- good point and description. I was meaning to convey that at idle the OP would produce little pulling force on the winch cable and could within most winch specs up the RPM to close to PTO cat 1 speed around 2200RPMs for most tractors. While I agree that more RPMs is not necessarily the best method to obtain better pulling strength, I do also equate increased RPMs to increased torque at the PTO shaft, for without more RPMs one does not get more torque at the shaft.
Depending on condition of the clutch disc facing, and any glazing of same from clutch burn from past use, the clutch may need deglazing or replacement to obtain best/increased results.
I'm not familiar with the specific adjustments on the OP's winch, but having done some repair work on my tree guy's Farmi I'm confident there are some adjustments that might be able to be made to increase the output of the rig.

 

[rasorbackq]

Is there a PTO cat 1 max mark on your speedo head? If so, in theory, IF everything is in working order you should be able to pull at speeds up to that limit or close to it. At idle you will get what you have: nothing.
Clutch works like any other, or at least similar- it pulls the load until the load is too big and then it would tend to slip, or in my case break the cable while under tension. You'll know if it's slipping- burning smell or poor performance based on what it was doing prior to slipping.

This is my dash. Its got 2 PTO 540 speed areas. I ran it one day on the PTO 1 area and was very loud and lots of smoke . I ran the hoe that way but it was way to high an idle speed.
Last time I used the winch it was not burning at all just not pulling like it should I thought but I don't know. Will try it with a idle speed at 1500 next time rather then idle .

 

[Gordon Gould]

As you know the clutch should be free with no pressure on the control rope and fully engaged with moderately strong pressure on the rope. If the clutch is adjusted to tight the cable will try to reel in on it's own just laying on the ground loose and it will be hard to pull out. If the clutch is to loose it will slip before you get maximum pull from the winch. If you are winching in a load and the load hangs up causing the clutch to slip you should hear your tractor bog down under the increased load. If the tractor does not grunt and bog either the clutch is to loose or the tractor is way over powered for the winch. So if you see lots of slipping which causes heat, smoke, and clutch wear your clutch probably needs adjustment or resurfacing unless you have a real big tractor.

One clutch face is on the big sprocket the other on the drum. When you pull the rope the lever arm rotates and turns an eccentric ring on the shaft which forces the drum back against the sprocket engaging the clutch. There is very little movement caused by the eccentric ring so a little clutch wear can cause slippage. To tighten the clutch adjustment you need to move the drum closer to the large sprocket. The drum is held in place by the two large external jam nuts on either sde of the shaft. To move the drum and adjust the clutch loosen the nuts then rotate the drum shaft slightly to screw the drum either closer to or further from the sprocket depending on the type of adjustment. 1/4 turn is a big adjustment.

I would mark the shaft end with a verticle line before I turned it to make a clutch adjustment so that you can see how much adjustment you made or return it to original.

This is my manual instructions. Good luck !

 

[rasorbackq]

Thanks . I can say the winch has no extra noise when the log hangs up and doesn't continue inwards. Tractor HP is 47hp. The large nut on the pulley side is only finger tight but the other 2 nuts on the pto side are tight. . Will have to see when I get a moment.

 

[rasorbackq]

So been using the winch same problem winching a tree out seems to lack pull power.Talking a 40' tree poplar and 16" in the butt. Every little thing seems to stop the line coming in. So I did a test tied the tractor to a big tree Winch cant pull the tractor towards the tree with the winch off the ground. I adjusted the clutch and now same thing but cable is very hard to pull out. Is the clutch shot? What am I looking for inside?