Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#1,971  
Peter,
On the bent drawbar.
They are meant to remain with the holes pretty much vertical in use. A tongue on an implement or trailer that is a "U" with a pin through it and the bar keeps the bar from rotating much beyond horizontal.

Trailer hitch balls and chains without bracing the drawbar up to the center link attachment allow the bar to rotate so the thin dimension is vertical and it bends when you pull against it.

I did that once the first five minutes I tried to pull a trailer, which has a high tongue and ball socket, with a ball on a drawbar.

The towbar on the tractor is much stronger and more safe for pulling and dragging since it is below the center of gravity.
All good points Ron. I do have a "U" like what you're referring to, but forgot to bring it with me. This cat 2 draw bar looked to be plenty beefy, but it does have a "made in china" sticker on it, so maybe the steel in it is not the strongest.

The reason I didn't use the towbar is that it would not have provided any uplift to get me the increased traction for the tractor, and reduced traction for the dumpster (since the front of it had a lot of weight transferred to the tractor. I had my 1000 lbs grapple on the loader and opened up and extended out for max front weight, and the front still got very light as I was dragging the dumpster out. I was careful to make the chain as short as I could so that even with significant uplift applied, I was still well below the center of gravity and the center of the rear axle. I normally like to take "middle of the action" shots, but not this time. I wanted to get the stress to the tractor over with as quickly as possible.

I stopped by this morning on my way to work, and the dumpster had already been picked up! I stopped by to turn of HVAC system off. They are supposed to start sanding the T&G today, and I didn't want all that dust sucked into the return ducts and filter. I'm 99% sure they would not have bothered turning it off.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,972  
You have to use PT wood for the sills and bottom plates of walls sitting on concrete. I don't know what the code says about using PT wood elsewhere. However, my concern would be warpage of the wood. PT wood tends to warp badly as it dries, especially if nothing physically prevents the PT wood from moving as it dries.
Obed

Obed, It is my understanding that you can use regular boards on concrete as long as it is separated from the concrete. I framed a small bathroom at my house and ran out of PT wood for the bottom plate. So I bent a piece of aluminum flashing like this |_| and placed the 2 X 4 inside the box to finish the project. A little more work but supposedly it meets code.


I realize blocks of some sort are needed, I just wish they would have centered the brackets on each, and I don't care much for the fancy profile they gave each block. But it will all get painted anyway and this is stairs to the basement, so no big deal I suppose.

Peter, I don't know who did the railing to the basement but I gotta say they put some time and effort into making the railing look very nice. Very good workmanship here!
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#1,973  
Peter,
Is the diffuser missing on one of the garage ceiling lights or did they use the wrong fixture?
2 of them were broken out of the box. One in the garage and one in the basement. I went to Lowe's and picked up 2 more, swapped the diffusers in the parking lot, and took them back inside for a refund. :D
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#1,974  
Curious about the 6x6 stairs how did they tie the timbers to each other? I have followed your thread and think it will be very interesting to see how this settles up with the builder on the final draw/total package price.
They drilled 1/2" holes and pounded in sections of rebar to tie them together. I believe they extended them 18" or so into the ground.

We are also quite curious about what this change order will cost!
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,975  
The landscaping looks great, I can't wait to see the stone work finished. You had said that the rock man makes his own stones, this must be very time consuming?

Dave
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,976  
Peter,
Your non PT plate boards are separated from the concrete by the thin foam material designed to fill any wind or bug entry under a low spot. The 6" minimum clearance from the bottom of your siding to any dirt is to protect the siding from water damage and also encourage bugs to not try to enter. That really doesn't stop a determined bug/ant/spider but it does protect the siding by allowing water to drip off. If your having the ground around the house treated for termite protection some plants and shrubs won't like it for 6 months or more so planting now could be an expensive waste.

My strongest suggestion for the day concerns your HVAC..

If the ceiling sanding, wall muding and sanding, flooring fixing and other extremely dusty construction activities that need to be completed are done with your system running you will fill your register ducts, trunk lines, A-frame coil fins and blower fan cage with fine particulates some of which will circulate all over the house for months/years.

Take a look at the "prefilter" in your static charged system now. You will probably find that it is a very thin plastic screen/mesh that really doesn't stop stuff like plasterboard dust. The next line of defense, the static ring pins are not meant to stop anything, just to set up a charge. The last line of defense, the 3" thick electrically charged briefcase filters will stop a lot of stuff, but will clog rapidly from construction dust. Those two babies are very expensive to replace.
I imagine the data packet that came with the filter unit warns about shutting off the system during dusty construction but the boys are not going to shut off dry cool air during their time there, if not forced too.

I would shut off the system at the breaker box and remove the pull breakers on the inside air handler so they can't turn it back on by just flipping the breakers in the main box.
If the floor registers have been put in place, pick them out and put plastic wrap under them and reinsert. If not cover the holes with some scrap tile or something to keep dust from settling into the pipes.

The warning lights on the filter box are really not meaningful according to my Trane technicians. If the pre-filter red light comes on it is obviously long overdo to be washed. I wash mine in a big slop sink
in the basement and then blow the remaining water off with an air compressor.
The increasing string of LED lights for the briefcase filters is really just a timer according to my Trane guys. What mad scientist thinks he can determine the amount of dust in an environment based on time?:confused2:
I also blow the briefcase filters out with low pressure air outside the garage. It is amazing how much dust they accumulate. Blowing them out in the basement would just add more dust back into the environment.

Anyway, just a suggestion, to lock out the system during the remaining dusty construction. With dark tile floors and dark granite counter tops to easily show dust, your mom may ring your neck if you don't.:laughing:
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,977  
The triangle effect that prevents the rails from moving sideways would be lost that way. The roller shafts just slip through tabbed holes
on the back of the door. If the rails are not maintained parallel with the triangle bracket arrangement they tend to spread a little from the weight of the door when open and the shaft can pull out of the inner tab hole causing the door to jam.

The triangle is still there. this puts the triangle directly above the end of the rail, in the proper place.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,978  
Peter,
Your non PT plate boards are separated from the concrete by the thin foam material designed to fill any wind or bug entry under a low spot. The 6" minimum clearance from the bottom of your siding to any dirt is to protect the siding from water damage and also encourage bugs to not try to enter. That really doesn't stop a determined bug/ant/spider but it does protect the siding by allowing water to drip off. If your having the ground around the house treated for termite protection some plants and shrubs won't like it for 6 months or more so planting now could be an expensive waste.

My strongest suggestion for the day concerns your HVAC..

If the ceiling sanding, wall muding and sanding, flooring fixing and other extremely dusty construction activities that need to be completed are done with your system running you will fill your register ducts, trunk lines, A-frame coil fins and blower fan cage with fine particulates some of which will circulate all over the house for months/years.

Take a look at the "prefilter" in your static charged system now. You will probably find that it is a very thin plastic screen/mesh that really doesn't stop stuff like plasterboard dust. The next line of defense, the static ring pins are not meant to stop anything, just to set up a charge. The last line of defense, the 3" thick electrically charged briefcase filters will stop a lot of stuff, but will clog rapidly from construction dust. Those two babies are very expensive to replace.
I imagine the data packet that came with the filter unit warns about shutting off the system during dusty construction but the boys are not going to shut off dry cool air during their time there, if not forced too.

I would shut off the system at the breaker box and remove the pull breakers on the inside air handler so they can't turn it back on by just flipping the breakers in the main box.
If the floor registers have been put in place, pick them out and put plastic wrap under them and reinsert. If not cover the holes with some scrap tile or something to keep dust from settling into the pipes.

The warning lights on the filter box are really not meaningful according to my Trane technicians. If the pre-filter red light comes on it is obviously long overdo to be washed. I wash mine in a big slop sink
in the basement and then blow the remaining water off with an air compressor.
The increasing string of LED lights for the briefcase filters is really just a timer according to my Trane guys. What mad scientist thinks he can determine the amount of dust in an environment based on time?:confused2:
I also blow the briefcase filters out with low pressure air outside the garage. It is amazing how much dust they accumulate. Blowing them out in the basement would just add more dust back into the environment.

Anyway, just a suggestion, to lock out the system during the remaining dusty construction. With dark tile floors and dark granite counter tops to easily show dust, your mom may ring your neck if you don't.:laughing:
Ron

Some very-very good advise.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,979  
Speaking of the concrete work, I am just getting ready to pour my detached garage and would really like for the finished product to look like the basement/garage on this project. If you know what I should be asking for (type of finish, sealer, etc.) I would greatly appreciate it. At this point, I would only know to say, 'I want them smooth as possible, and sealed.' I don't have a general contractor or anything like that (I am doing everything, but I don't want to risk the concrete work).

I am not trying to steal the thread, so please feel free to pm me if you have any thoughts.

thank you in advance...

I saw the floors on this build (weeks ago) and thought, 'that is exactly what I want.'

Thanks again Peter for sharing

Gudor,
I can not say for sure how they did the finish but i THINK they just ran the power trowels on the floor more times then needed. Around here i know it as a "burnt" finish. I would say they ran the trowel about 2-3 more times after what you would think of as a normal finish. Also most guys have a set of rough blades and finish blades for there machines. Switching to the finish blades to give a better finish.Just remember the more times you run it the slicker the finish gets. Hope this helps.:drink:
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #1,980  
Gudor,
I can not say for sure how they did the finish but i THINK they just ran the power trowels on the floor more times then needed. Around here i know it as a "burnt" finish. I would say they ran the trowel about 2-3 more times after what you would think of as a normal finish. Also most guys have a set of rough blades and finish blades for there machines. Switching to the finish blades to give a better finish.Just remember the more times you run it the slicker the finish gets. Hope this helps.:drink:

Plus the over finish brings too much cream ( sand and concrete ) to the surface which is not very strong/durable.
Be sure to use sealer if this is done or you may get crumbling/spalling of the surface, even on inside floors.
Sealer is like paint, it has to be redone as time goes on.:thumbdown:
 

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