Buying Advice Compact for new 43 acre wooded property

[wolc123]

The JD 4020 series, which include the 4120, 4320, 4520, and 4720 tractors, all use the American, JD Powertech engine. The smaller CUT's do use the Japanese Yanmar engines. Some say the Powertech engine is assembled in Mexico, but technically, that is still part of "America". Certainly much of the profits from the sales end up back here in the States. I do know for certain that in about 7 years of relatively hard usage, the only trouble I have had with my 4120 has been that I had to put a new starter on it after about 3 years. I got an aftermarket "powerstrike" starter from Amazon for around $130 as I recall, and it has been much better than the OEM Bosh unit that came on the tractor. No way would I replace a unit that failed prematurely with another, when a cheaper alternative (Powerstrike) exists. I actually got the brand-new JD for less money than a comparably sized Kubota (GL 4330), and for about the same as a lighter duty New Holland (?40) that did not include a removable-bucket as standard equipment as did the JD. My tractor even still has the original equipment battery. When it comes down to country of origin, its hard to argue with keeping it as American as possible especially when it gets you the best price. I also think you should be looking at 2 tractors, with something like a 4120 for the larger jobs.

 

[94BULLITT]

Some say the Powertech engine is assembled in Mexico, but technically, that is still part of "America". Certainly much of the profits from the sales end up back here in the States.

or as I call it "North American" made.

 

[Grandad4]

Was American vs. foreign an issue raised by the OP? If not, is this the place for extended debate on that topic? Just saying...

 

[rider0]

I would go with a 3000 series John Deere. I have 56 acres about 14 or 15 mowed and the rest is woods. I have a J.D. 790 which is the same as the 3005. I also have a loader and backhoe for it. It works very well, I have a lot of steep hills so i went with a gear transmission instead of hyro. Also have a 5' tiller. I definately wouldn't want a smaller tractor, a little larger would be nice, however when i am in the woods with my tractor it is just the right size. A bigger tractor wouldn't work so well in the woods. Another deciding factor for me was John Deere is an american company, and I am an american, so i try to support my country. REMEMBER BUY AMERICAN OR BYE AMERICA!!

JD 790 is made in Japan and last I checked the FEL was made in China. Kubota may be a Japanese company, but at least they are assembled in the USA and most of their attachments are also made here. I'd pay a 25% premium for a domestically manufactured tractor if it was available. I won't even consider buying anything made in China.

 

[rider0]

Was American vs. foreign an issue raised by the OP? If not, is this the place for extended debate on that topic? Just saying...

No, but fact checking is important when flag waving. I am very dedicated to buying American made products, and will spend lots of time searching for USA made products, gladly spend extra money on them, or sometimes wait months (or years) to buy a particular used item when the only new options are from China or some other country I don't buy from if I can possibly help it. Sometimes (as in the case of compact tractors), there is no option that is mostly American made, so other factors creep into the equation (where are they assembled? Where are the attachments made? Where is the company headquartered?).

Nevertheless, bold statements such as claiming one should buy a John Deere because it is "American Made" must be refuted if they are patently false.

 

[jeff9366]

There is a lot of good advice on this thread, especially wisdom from Grandad4. I have a slightly different view from others.

I do mostly woods work with my Kubota B3300SU, one increment smaller than the 'L' series. The B3300SU is highly maneuverable, as are the smaller 'L' series.

I bought B3300SU for the complete package of FEL, HST and 4-WD at a package price. The FEL is my most used implement in the woods, often with a Ratchet Rake or debris forks attached; less often with a bucket spade. I use the FEL to lift large timbers before attaching a chain with a slip hook, then reversing to tow them out.

If you are going to do a lot of woods work skip the mid-PTO for MMM. You do not want to plow through brush with a mid-PTO. There are lots of 3-Pt hitch mounted PTO mowers and lots of towed PTO finish mowers; go with one of them.

The B3300SU and L3240 have 33-HP/32-HP but the extra 1000 pounds of the L3240 makes it functionally more powerful when pulling while retaining low fuel consumpltion and maneuverability.

Large tractors are great. However, you lose the ability to get into tight places, the implements cost more as you move up in size and the implements become increasingly a challenge to mount as they get heavier.

Get enough tractor, for sure; but do not get carried away with "bigger is better."

 

[790greene]

i don't recall saying that my JD was american made. i remember making the statement that John Deere is an American company, and the profits from the tractor sales come back to America, not back to Japan. it is everyone's preference on what they want to buy. I just try to buy as many things from American companies as possible. That's why I have two vehicles that are GMs and that's why I won't shop at Wal-Mart. They are about as un-american as they come.

No, but fact checking is important when flag waving. I am very dedicated to buying American made products, and will spend lots of time searching for USA made products, gladly spend extra money on them, or sometimes wait months (or years) to buy a particular used item when the only new options are from China or some other country I don't buy from if I can possibly help it. Sometimes (as in the case of compact tractors), there is no option that is mostly American made, so other factors creep into the equation (where are they assembled? Where are the attachments made? Where is the company headquartered?).

Nevertheless, bold statements such as claiming one should buy a John Deere because it is "American Made" must be refuted if they are patently false.

 

[rider0]

it is everyone's preference on what they want to buy. I just try to buy as many things from American companies as possible. That's why I have two vehicles that are GMs and that's why I won't shop at Wal-Mart. They are about as un-american as they come.

I heartily agree with that, and so do my GM vehicles. Especially the Wal-Mart part.

 

[jeff9366]

i don't recall saying that my JD was american made. i remember making the statement that John Deere is an American company, and the profits from the tractor sales come back to America, not back to Japan.

Deere is a publicly owned company. Kubota is a publicly owned company. The owners of Deere stock and Kubota stock are disbursed all over the world.


Both firms manufacture product and provide employment in plants in may nations. To claim that Deere profits somehow are retained in the U.S.A. ( or Kubota profits return to Japan ) is not factual. The stocks traded on U.S. exchanges equal about 1/3 of world equity values and many of the stocks traded on said U.S. exchanges are also listed on stock exchanges outside the U.S.A. i.e.: Chrysler, owned by Fiat.

Kubota has two manufacturing/assembly plants in Georgia and a diesel engine plant in Illinois. I speculate some of those Illinois engines power tractors in Japan, Portugal, Belarus, Ecuador and Australia.

Deere and Kubota are supra-national, striving to serve their stock holders and other stake holders.

Through trade the effeciency and wealth of the world increase.

PS: I have friends employed in Toyota's plants in Georgetown, Kentucky.

 

[DieselnHooters]

Deere is a publicly owned company. Kubota is a publicly owned company. The owners of Deere stock and Kubota stock live all over the world.


Both firms manufacture product and provide employment in plants all over the world. To claim that Deere profits somehow are retained in the U.S.A. ( or Kubota profits return to Japan ) is not factual. The stocks traded on U.S. exchanges equal about 1/3 of world equity values and many of the stocks traded on said U.S. exchanges are also listed on foreign exchanges and are considered "foreign" companies, i.e.: Chrysler, owned by Fiat.

Kubota has two manufacturing/assembly plants in Georgia and a diesel engine plant in Illinois.

Through trade the wealth of the world increases.

But but but...they have a Japanese name, lets not forget that day of infamy when they attacked the Alamo and later sunk the USS Tightanus

 

[jgoehri1]

Jeff . . . I actually looked at the B3300SU today. Thanks for the great pictures. They answered some of the questions I had about it being able to tow decent size timber out of the woods. Any regrets in not going with the bigger L3200? Certainly a substantial price difference.

 

[jeff9366]

Not really. A few times I have wished for more log lifting capacity with the FEL, but only a few times. And towing slowly with the dedicated log-skidding options is safer than carrying a too heavy load in the FEL, even with a counter-balancing implement on the 3-Point.

When using my KK Rotary Cutter I regret the B3300SU is not available with 3-Pt. 'position control', which is standard on the L-40 series. I use check chains to maintain a uniform cut and resent 5-10 minutes it takes to rig and adjust check chains after mounting mower and connecting PTO shaft. Lack of position control has only an been an issue with the rotary cutter.

I do not plow and I do not till. If I did much of these two ground engaging functions the additional 1,200+ pounds in the 'L' series might be money well spent.

It might be illuminating to calculate cost per pound of B3300SU package Vs. cost per pound of L3240 optioned identically to the B3300SU.

I recommend 'R-4' 'industrial' tires. Greater width of R-4's supports heavy loads on the FEL better plus 6 (?) ply construction less prone to flats in the woods. R-1 ag tires are fine for fields but R-4s for work in the woods.

I keep my tractor in my humidity controlled garage. I run the tractor over my St. Augustine lawn almost every day and the R-4s do not mark nor rut the dry or damp lawn.....important as you have mowing identified as a primary task.

Psychologists and marketers tell us : Anticipation is 50% of Satisfaction.

Take your time. Ponder everything before plunking down your money.

Log Skidding Link:

Norwood Log Hog Log Skidder Tractor Attachment, Model# 41255 Log Hog | Log Skidding| Northern Tool + Equipment

Dragging chain in video is NOT recommended.

Feel free to send me a Private Message with further questions pertaining to B3300SU.

 

[jgoehri1]

Thanks, all, for the advice so far. Particularly, Grandad4 was right on the mark. I bought a Gravely ZT HD 52 to do the mowing as I needed the right tool for the job and couldn't be happier. The "all in one" solution is just not the way to go. My only regret is not getting the 60 in deck and sacrificing a little on the trimming. I'm still in the market for the CUT and am now considering the Kubota L3800/4600 or something in the same size range. My woods is pretty tight with a mess of Honeysuckle I'd love to eradicate and I'd love to have a backhoe for pond maintenance, drainage tile and stump removal purposes.

Thanks again Grandad4 for the wise advise. Time is valuable, particularly with young children.

 

[michellesc7]

Went through a few of the posts JGoe. I would look at purchasing a used JD 990 or 1070 (4cyl) with loader. Alternative would be to find a used Kubota L 4400 (4cyl not a 3cyl like the new L3800 or L4600) with loader or a new MX4700/5100. I would not go any smaller than these tractors - you will over work the tractor. If you want something very nimble look at a 4120 like I have or a 4320 used with loader but pricey even used. Mahindra and Kioti make good compacts also - but their new prices are up there with the rest and finding a good used smaller machine is hard to find but not impossible. TYM also another good smaller machine brand. Stay away from smaller L machines or B series in the Kubota and smaller 3000 machines JD.
Go look at and price a 3616 Mahindra made by Mitsubishi (new machine). You might like it also but not as robust as the Deere and Kubotas I above recommended to you.
For used Deeres look at Machine Finder and Tractor house. Also Tractor House for the Kubotas. Lots of these good machines out there.

 

[Grandad4]

You'll have the time of your life working on your new place. It helps to make a general plan and timeline for how you're going to develop your place (subject to adjustment along the way, of course), so you have benchmarks for your progress.

Sounds like you're heading in the right direction with the tractor shopping. We found a toothbar on the FEL bucket does a real number on brush and vines at our place (we had multiflora), with some spraying as well. All the bad stuff is gone now and anything that sneaks back is easily dispatched. There are other even fancier attachments for the FEL that probably work even better.

Best wishes,

 

[jgoehri1]

It seems like each time each time a read a thread on here I consider a bigger piece of equipment. I know the experience on this forum is invaluable, but I want to make sure I'm not limiting myself in the woods if I get into something as large as the MX5100. My woods is tight, but I'd love to thin it out and eradicate the honeysuckle to revive it. I also have about 17 acres of reed canary grass that is an absolute mess that I want to get rid of. I've got my state DNR guy working on a conservation plan, but I'm always a little nervous getting in bed with the govt. Any thought from folks using a CUT in wooded areas for trails, skidding timber as well as doing FEL work in other areas? Thanks again.

 

[dave1949]

I wonder about the skidding timber necessity. If you are cutting for firewood, there is really no reason to skid the logs, just cut them to stove lengths where they fall and use your tractor bucket like a power wheelbarrow. If you want to bring the logs to a sawmill for making boards, then you would need to skid them.

For access in a tight woods, plan your harvest to create pathways, selectively cutting the worst and ugliest trees for firewood. Given time, you will develop a running inventory of trees to be cut in your head.

A good tree, healthy crown with a straight stem, is one that has the genetics to take advantage of a good growing site or conditions. Those trees are the ones you want to keep as seed producers. If part of your goal is wildlife conservation, then paying attention to species that are good food sources is important too. White oak, for example is a premier tree for deer.

I think you can do what you need to do with a 40-50 hp tractor. I've done a lot of those things with my 40 hp NH Boomer. That size class is a reasonable trade-off between costs and the ability to do what you want to do.

It's good to keep in mind that tractors are primarily designed for field and barn work, not woods and excavation work. Tractors will do those things, but not as well or as long as machines designed for those purposes will. The advantage of a larger, heavier tractor is it will take more punishment and you won't be working it to within an inch of, or beyond, its capabilities.

 

[Grandad4]

Our primary tractor is the size of an MX5100 and we've done quite a bit of tree removal with it. The issue for us was selective tree removal instead of clear- cutting. I bought a logging winch for that purpose, and find it increases productivity by an order of magnitude because the 260 ft. of cable virtually eliminates having to get the tractor off the trail in order to pull out the timber. It's an expensive attachment, but does not depreciate and I expect to sell it for close to original price when we're done with it. Don't know if that is something for you to consider, but thought it worth mentioning.

 

[AKfish]

I'm kinda surprised that no one has mentioned the Kubota TLB line-up. They're super rugged, compact and nimble and will work with any 3pt implements that have been mentioned for the CUT's.

And... they're construction grade! Working in the woods is very, very hard on equipment. I'd put the L39 up against any of the tractors listed and long-term you'd probably buy 2 of 'em for the same hours worked.

AKfish

 

[jgoehri1]

I really don't have any reason to skid as I'm only removing timber for a wood stove. My only reason to do so was to avoid the bush honeysuckle that has taken over my woods. I think a TLB package in the 40 hp range is what I need. I'd been shopping for something without the backhoe but feel like I'll regret it later with drainage and stump removal to take care of.