bush hogging ("rotary mowers") advice please

[ohbehave]

I've got an L3200 Kubota.... 25hp at the PTO.

Also, I've got 6 wooded acres that I am thinning....and I am considering making a little pecan tree orchard.

Regardless, the understory is full of weed, invasive privet trees/shrubs and honeysuckle (I'm in Tenn.)

Almost everything is going to be under 2" thick... I'll pull the bigger stuff out with the shrub grubber. The terrain rolls and dips here and there, too

I'd like to know of the different qualities of available "Bush Hog" type mowers. I have read people say "medium duty, heavy duty" etc.... but how would I know...and how would I know what I need?

What are the safe, good reputation brands to get. I think my local kubota dealer sells Land Pride as their higher end, if I'm not mistaken.

 

[greg_g]

Hawklike sells sturdy implements. They're in Huntingdon, just west of Nashville. Used to go under the IMC brand (International Machinery Corp). I had their IM500 (shear bolt five footer) and their IM602 (slip clutch six footer). Given your 25 PTO hp, I'd say five footer. But with all those vines, hopefully you can get one with a slip clutch

//greg//

 

[bigbull338]

with the hp you have id get a heavy duty 5ft brushhog shredder todo that clean up work.you want a shredder that hold up to rough work.

 

[TripleR]

Medium or Heavy duty seems to mean different things with different manufacturers. I run a Land Pride RCR2672 cutter which is rated as a "medium duty" which cuts 3" stuff and I have cut thicker. The RCF3672 is the Heavy duty cutter with a rating up to 4" and weighs a few hundred more pounds.

For your needs a "medium duty" in some brands will work, but in another brand it may be labeled a "heavy duty", just be sure it is of good quality and rated for your needs. Judge them by cutting capacity, deck thickness and HP rating. I only get ones with a slip clutch having spent too much time replacing shear pins, others like the shear pin.

Several manufacturers make good cutters, I just have experience with Land Pride, King Kutter, Rhino some off brands and Woods.

 

[Piston]

I agree with what TripleR said.


To add to that, there is a good chance that a TRUE medium duty 5' cutter will be pushing the recommended limits for your tractor. I recommend getting the heaviest duty cutter you can put on your tractor.

In your owners manual, it should state the maximum weight for specific implements. You should see a max weight listed for rotary cutters. Try to stay near that max, but not too much over it.

I would avoid any light duty cutters if you plan to mow much 2" material.

 

[Power2ll]

You can't go wrong with a 60" squealer by brush hog they cost more but if you use it you will see the difference . They have a round back and will hold up better than most . I had a king kutter before and liked it but then I got the hog and it sells itself

 

[greg_g]

there is a good chance that a TRUE medium duty 5' cutter will be pushing the recommended limits for your tractor. I recommend getting the heaviest duty cutter you can put on your tractor..

What am I missing? If a medium duty pushes the limits, what's the logic in going heavy duty? The hydraulics can lift >1400 pounds, but can 25 PTO hp spin a HD competently? Even if yes, I might be bit concerned how long the electric PTO clutch can stand up to the HD shock load.

//greg//

 

[Piston]

What am I missing? If a medium duty pushes the limits, what's the logic in going heavy duty? The hydraulics can lift >1400 pounds, but can 25 PTO hp spin a HD competently? Even if yes, I might be bit concerned how long the electric PTO clutch can stand up to the HD shock load.

//greg//

No you can't go heavy duty with your tractor, not a "true" heavy duty anyways. What I mean is try to get the heaviest duty cutter you can. For your tractor, that may mean sticking with a light duty cutter, but get the heaviest one you can.

The reason it's confusing is because one companies so called "heavy duty" cutter, might be half the weight than another companies medium duty.

Hope that clears it up a little?

 

[ohbehave]

I called my Kubota dealer. He suggests that I buy the lighter duty model Land Pride RCR 1860 (slip clutch and chain guards). This has the capacity to wack up to 2" brush. He quoted $1,635.

The heavier duty rcr2660 is $2,365.

What am I missing? If a medium duty pushes the limits, what's the logic in going heavy duty? The hydraulics can lift >1400 pounds, but can 25 PTO hp spin a HD competently? Even if yes, I might be bit concerned how long the electric PTO clutch can stand up to the HD shock load.

//greg//

 

[TripleR]

I called my Kubota dealer. He suggests that I buy the lighter duty model Land Pride RCR 1860 (slip clutch and chain guards). This has the capacity to wack up to 2" brush. He quoted $1,635.

The heavier duty rcr2660 is $2,365.

Sounds like a good choice for that tractor and your chores and I highly recommend the slip clutch and chains.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Check out the HOWSE brand of cutters. I had a 6 foot economy model duty (601S model I think) that I put thru H3ll with a 45 HP tractor and never had a problem with it other than hitting big rocks and throwing them into the light sheet metal sides which put some dents in the sides. As far as the components, I don't think there is much difference in the lightweight gearbox, stumpjumper or blades. It seems that the major difference is in the sheet metal thickness. My light duty one had a 75 HP gearbox but the sheet metal was 12gauge (less than 1/8" )and weighed only about 600# whereas my current heavy duty bush hog 7 foot one is 1/4" sheet metal with channel side frames and weighs over 1500#. I cut trees with the Howse that were 3-4" thick, basically anything that I could push over and drive over, I cut and never even sheared a pin but stalled the engine on my tractor a few times. I only gave $800 for my Howes about 4-5 years ago. I think that would be plenty heavy for anything you will cut on 6 acres and pull with a 30 HP tractor. Keep the deck cleaned and painted to prevent rust thru which is what gets the sheet metal in the light duty models. Storing it under a shed will make it last much longer. If you don't have a shed, just block it up off the ground so it can circulate air underneath will help also. I am sure they are higher now than what they were 4-5 years ago but were a good buy then and they are made in Mississippi, USA.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I know that some people prefer to buy new, and if you're one of them then disregard this, but I wouldn't buy a new rotary cutter. The first reason is that, no matter what you do, it's going to get beat to heck pretty quickly, so that "new car smell" won't last long. The second reason is that they are probably the single most common tractor implement I see for sale used, so a buyer pretty much has his pick. $1600-$2400 for a new 5' cutter?!?! You can pick up a used, but perfectly functional one for $300-$600, easily.

Here are some suggestions:

6 foot Rotary Cutter *Bushhog*

6' rotary cutter, $475. The paint is a little too clean, so check to be sure this isn't a beater that has just been dolled up. If the gear box and PTO are tight, this is a steal.

5 foot bush hog

5' cutter, $350 OBO, so maybe you can get it for $300.

Bushhog (brand:bush hog) SQ60- 5 foot

Actual Bush-hog brand squealer, 5', $450.

And if you're concerned about longevity? Heck. You can buy 4-6 of the used ones for the price of a new one, you know?

 

[jenkinsph]

I tend to agree with Joshua on a good used unit if available near you. Atleast to clean everything up the first time or two, amazing what you can find with a brush mower evon on your own property. The third listing for the 60" squealer looks okay.

 

[ohbehave]

It looks like that "squealer" has been pulled from Craigslist.

Thanks a ton for those links... very cool of you to do quick assessments of each one!

I know that some people prefer to buy new, and if you're one of them then disregard this, but I wouldn't buy a new rotary cutter. The first reason is that, no matter what you do, it's going to get beat to heck pretty quickly, so that "new car smell" won't last long. The second reason is that they are probably the single most common tractor implement I see for sale used, so a buyer pretty much has his pick. $1600-$2400 for a new 5' cutter?!?! You can pick up a used, but perfectly functional one for $300-$600, easily.

Here are some suggestions:

6 foot Rotary Cutter *Bushhog*

6' rotary cutter, $475. The paint is a little too clean, so check to be sure this isn't a beater that has just been dolled up. If the gear box and PTO are tight, this is a steal.

5 foot bush hog

5' cutter, $350 OBO, so maybe you can get it for $300.

Bushhog (brand:bush hog) SQ60- 5 foot

Actual Bush-hog brand squealer, 5', $450.

And if you're concerned about longevity? Heck. You can buy 4-6 of the used ones for the price of a new one, you know?

 

[smstonypoint]

Regardless, the understory is full of weed, invasive privet trees/shrubs and honeysuckle (I'm in Tenn.)

Almost everything is going to be under 2" thick... I'll pull the bigger stuff out with the shrub grubber.

I would plan on buying a sprayer, too. You will get regrowth of the privet that you bush hog.

Steve

 

[ohbehave]

Thanks... about the regrowth of privet.

Dang. I have been thinking about that. Was hoping to retain some of the ground cover (ivy and vinca).... but won't be able to do that if I resort to spraying.

The honeysuckle is bad, but not nearly as persistent as the privet.

Wondering if there is a way I can "paint" the weed killer on the privet itself and preserve the ground cover.

In the end, I might just resort to just mowing the privet every so often... in that case, I'll try to cut rather high so as to preserve the groundcover and increase the safety of the box turtles.

 

[smstonypoint]

Wondering if there is a way I can "paint" the weed killer on the privet itself and preserve the ground cover.

Google "rope wick applicator." You can buy one or make your own (e.g., http://www.caes.uga.edu/commodities/spray/pubs/documents/Aavimhowtomakearopewick.pdf).

Steve

 

[greg_g]

If Western Kentucky is not too far to drive, I changed tractors recently - allowing me to go from a 5 footer to a 6 footer. I was not offered as much in trade as I think it's worth, so my 5 foot Kodiak MD60 is available. It's as depicted in the attached page; with optional slipclutch, but without chains. Didn't want them, cuz chains on a previous RC clogged and tangled badly. Only been use two seasons for pasture maintenance, so the blades don't even need sharpening yet.

You should be able to get rid of the privet without damage to the underlying grasses with 2,4-D

//greg//

 

[cletus99]

If Western Kentucky is not too far to drive, I changed tractors recently - allowing me to go from a 5 footer to a 6 footer. I was not offered as much in trade as I think it's worth, so my 5 foot Kodiak MD60 is available. It's as depicted in the attached page; with optional slipclutch, but without chains. Didn't want them, cuz chains on a previous RC clogged and tangled badly. Only been use two seasons for pasture maintenance, so the blades don't even need sharpening yet.

You should be able to get rid of the privet without damage to the underlying grasses with 2,4-D
View attachment 310166
//greg//

I have the same Kodiak mower and it's worked out great for me. I have no complaints.

 

[Notforhire]

I also prefer slip clutch over shear pins. At the beginning of the season you will need to loosten the spring bolts and spin the clutch plates. If you don't do that the plates will rust together and you won't have protection for your PTO.
If you have an electric PTO, throttle down to just above an idle, before starting and stopping the PTO, you will reduce the load on your PTO clutch and brake.