questions on B2320

[JOHNTHOMAS]

So, it sounds like you would not worry that a 6' bucket and the extra 150 pounds would NOT be a problem for the B2620, JOHNTHOMAS. But azbinder is pretty sure it would be too big. We are on almost flat 5 acres. The dealer is a big Kubota dealer with a decent reputation around here. Has anyone else had this adjustment made on the B2620 or 2920?

I don't think I was saying anything about a 6' bucket but the B will handle the bucket. It just depends on what you put in the bucket that counts. If it's mulch then the B will handle a 6' bucket. If it's filled to the top with stone then I don't know. The FEL with have a limit of weight that it will lift. If all your lift capacity goes into the bucket, arms and attachment then that wouldn't be good.
If I was on level ground and money wasn't a consideration then I'd go for a Grand L or M depending on what I needed to lift. If money matters then I'd figure my jobs for 90% to 95% of usage and match the tractor to that and push, pull, drag, pay someone else, rent, beg a neighbor for the other 10% to 5% of the jobs my tractor wouldn't do.
I pay someone to do steep hillside leveling which I could do in time and very dangerous but I don't, I pay someone with a dozer or track loader to do it and feel good about it.
Figure your jobs/needs and match your tractor to them with help from your Kubota dealer.

 

[sierradmax]

I have a B2320 with the Kubota B1658 QA to swap the 48" bucket on and off. I fabricated a Skid Steer QA to use several bobcat attachments we have. I've used the 72" bucket on the B2320 once to move some loose shavings. That's about all it will do. I would not suggest anything greater than the supplied 48" bucket for the B2X20's when earth moving.

 

[rider0]

I have a B2320 with the Kubota B1658 QA to swap the 48" bucket on and off. I fabricated a Skid Steer QA to use several bobcat attachments we have. I've used the 72" bucket on the B2320 once to move some loose shavings. That's about all it will do. I would not suggest anything greater than the supplied 48" bucket for the B2X20's when earth moving.

B2320 comes with a 48" bucket; B2620 and B2920 come with a 50" bucket to cover the track of their wider rear tires. The latter also have a slightly beefier loader to compensate for the extra weight/wider bucket/etc.

 

[debp]

The cost of quick attach is the stumbling block for us on the B2620. Otherwise, we'd be buying one today. The way we see it is the quick attach is only worth it if you plan to get forks. The Kubota QA (B-1658) is only $300, but then you are limited to Kubota forks (quote to us as $1070). The universal quick attach by Aldomi is what they usually put on their Bs, and that is $650 w/o the forks and they say it requires a different bucket than what comes on the B2620. They did discover that they could get a smaller (than the 6') bucket to work (54"), but they don't have one and it would be additional cost, I think. The bottom line is that the B, fixed to take forks, starts to look like a foolish choice next to the L3200. We would be looking harder outside the Kubota line at this point, but except for a brand that requires expensive green paint, it is many hours to look at another brand compact tractor of the B size. I'm having heartburn over the cost of making the B-series work, and I'm wondering if we should forgo forks (not a good idea from what I read on the list, and we can think of many uses) and go with just a B2320 DT and really save some money.

 

[rider0]

The cost of quick attach is the stumbling block for us on the B2620. Otherwise, we'd be buying one today. The way we see it is the quick attach is only worth it if you plan to get forks. The Kubota QA (B-1658) is only $300, but then you are limited to Kubota forks (quote to us as $1070). The universal quick attach by Aldomi is what they usually put on their Bs, and that is $650 w/o the forks and they say it requires a different bucket than what comes on the B2620. They did discover that they could get a smaller (than the 6') bucket to work (54"), but they don't have one and it would be additional cost, I think. The bottom line is that the B, fixed to take forks, starts to look like a foolish choice next to the L3200. We would be looking harder outside the Kubota line at this point, but except for a brand that requires expensive green paint, it is many hours to look at another brand compact tractor of the B size. I'm having heartburn over the cost of making the B-series work, and I'm wondering if we should forgo forks (not a good idea from what I read on the list, and we can think of many uses) and go with just a B2320 DT and really save some money.

The L3200 lifts a whole lot more than the B2x20 series, but of course it's physically larger (may not be a problem in your situation) and costs $4k more than the B2620 with a loader, bucket, QA, and forks. Kubota offers so many choices that it can be a bit dizzying, but then again you can almost always choose something that very closely meets your requirements for cost, size, power, and other capabilities- once you really prioritize them.

 

[debp]

Well, the price is a factor, and the fact that I actually prefer the size of a B2620 is making this choice difficult. I think we will rarely need the power of the L3200, and for the tight quarters of an orchard and large garden area, the B2620 seems better to me. Though for snow plowing the L3200 would be better. The difference in price on the B2620 with bucket and forks and QA and the L3200 with bucket, forks and QA is only $1840, after rebates, according to our dealer. So, the B2620 with forks and QA doesn't seem like a smart investment compared to the L3200.

 

[kchampagne]

debp,

Tractor shopping can be a daunting task, especially if you are a newbie. It seems the more you research, the more you get confused. I was in your same situation 2 months ago. You have to look at it as an investment. Kubotas really hold their value well. So, don't worry too much about trying to find a tractor that will do everything you can possibly think of that may come down the road. Prioritize your main, immediate tasks you want it for, then go for it. You will not be disappointed with either the B2320, B2620 or L3200. These tractors are so well made, you will be surprised at what they can do and all of the attachments you can use on it. Are you set on buying new? Have you looked at used ones? I found a used B2630 with FEL, QA, and only 300 hrs on it for 13,500. I do recommend getting the HST and a QA for the FEL. You mentioned you want to get forks? Instead of QA forks, have you considered 3 point hitch forks such as these to save some money?:
King Kutter Pallet Mover
Tractor Hay Bale Forks 48" LHF001 Category 1, 3 Point Hitch Hookup

 

[debp]

Thanks for encouragement on tractor buying, kchampagne. We had not thought of the rear forks, and that is valuable info to consider. We've veered away from used, because we know so little at this point.

 

[rider0]

debp,

Tractor shopping can be a daunting task, especially if you are a newbie. It seems the more you research, the more you get confused. I was in your same situation 2 months ago. You have to look at it as an investment. Kubotas really hold their value well. So, don't worry too much about trying to find a tractor that will do everything you can possibly think of that may come down the road. Prioritize your main, immediate tasks you want it for, then go for it. You will not be disappointed with either the B2320, B2620 or L3200. These tractors are so well made, you will be surprised at what they can do and all of the attachments you can use on it. Are you set on buying new? Have you looked at used ones? I found a used B2630 with FEL, QA, and only 300 hrs on it for 13,500. I do recommend getting the HST and a QA for the FEL. You mentioned you want to get forks? Instead of QA forks, have you considered 3 point hitch forks such as these to save some money?:
King Kutter Pallet Mover
Tractor Hay Bale Forks 48" LHF001 Category 1, 3 Point Hitch Hookup

In the big scheme of things, although you certainly save a few dollars with the 3pt mounted forks, they are simply not as convenient or versatile as loader mounted forks. They can't be used for overhead lifting objects, can't stack pallets, can't compensate for terrain (i.e. keeping a pallet level while traveling up or down slope), don't give extra reach, are not usable for carrying brush, etc... They certainly have their place, as many small tractors can carry more weight on the 3pt than the loader arms, but unless your primary objective is to carry heavy pallets, ground to ground, on level terrain, they may not be the right solution to the problem.

 

[deathtoblackberries]

Well, the price is a factor, and the fact that I actually prefer the size of a B2620 is making this choice difficult. I think we will rarely need the power of the L3200, and for the tight quarters of an orchard and large garden area, the B2620 seems better to me. Though for snow plowing the L3200 would be better. The difference in price on the B2620 with bucket and forks and QA and the L3200 with bucket, forks and QA is only $1840, after rebates, according to our dealer. So, the B2620 with forks and QA doesn't seem like a smart investment compared to the L3200.

You want a B2920 (waves Jedi hand)

 

[beckmurph]

Have you looked at the B3200. It is closer to the size of the bxx20's and has move lift with the fel that the smaller b. It is also smaller and lighter than the L series.
Is there a reason in your shopping that steered you away from the larger B?

 

[Stewie1]

I'm late to the discussion but would also suggest a look at the B3200/3300.

I started looking at the smaller B's and quickly justified the extra cost to move up to a B3200 when trying them out at the dealer. 18 months and 170 hours in I couldn't be happier with the choice. I stayed away from the L series because I have narrow winding trails on my property and a bigger tractor would be a pain to maneuver. The B3200 is easy to turn around in the forest.

I don't mow with mine and have a rear snowblower so I can still use the FEL in winter. Therefore I could have chosen the B3300 and saved a little money, but figured the machine with the mid PTO would be an easier trade if I needed to reconsider.

I use mine for snow clearing, logging, firewood handling, ski trail maintenance and lots of other things. The 3200 has a higher capacity loader than the smaller Bs and I have the Kubota QA. Changing between bucket and forks is easy and some manufacturers will make attachments for this QA system. Horst Welding (HLA attachments) are one example and I have their forks.

Hope this helps

Craig

 

[Marshall]

Keep in mind also that the basic L package has no Mid-PTO option.

 

[debp]

Thanks for all this info. We are weighing all these things, including my reluctance to spend $20K+ (once we get the mower, bb, ditcher we need). We just noticed a used 2010 B3300SUHSD with only 147 hours at the same dealer. So have been reading about that. Because it has R4 tires and will need spacers for chains, it comes in just $1000 less than the new B2620. Neither would have QA, but 2620 would have mid-mount mower.
In weighing all the options, I have a few questions:
We don't have any plans for the mid-mount mower (no snowblower or finish mower planned), but is the lack of mmm going to make it difficult to sell the B3300 when the time comes? We realize the lack of QA is a significant factor.
How important is the HST in resale? It doesn't seem critical to us, but is it worth the $1000 to get it for future resale?
An Ansung loader (with equal lift capacity) is a common downgrade and $1000 savings at our local dealership. Any views on that option?

Any opinions on which of these would be best way to keep purchase price down without being penny-wise and pound foolish?
My husband thinks the L3200 is a better tractor for the price than the B3200 (or any other B) because of the weight and heftier build. I'm less confident of that.

debp

 

[deathtoblackberries]

Thanks for all this info. We are weighing all these things, including my reluctance to spend $20K+ (once we get the mower, bb, ditcher we need). We just noticed a used 2010 B3300SUHSD with only 147 hours at the same dealer. So have been reading about that. Because it has R4 tires and will need spacers for chains, it comes in just $1000 less than the new B2620. Neither would have QA, but 2620 would have mid-mount mower.
In weighing all the options, I have a few questions:
We don't have any plans for the mid-mount mower (no snowblower or finish mower planned), but is the lack of mmm going to make it difficult to sell the B3300 when the time comes? We realize the lack of QA is a significant factor.
How important is the HST in resale? It doesn't seem critical to us, but is it worth the $1000 to get it for future resale?
An Ansung loader (with equal lift capacity) is a common downgrade and $1000 savings at our local dealership. Any views on that option?

Any opinions on which of these would be best way to keep purchase price down without being penny-wise and pound foolish?
My husband thinks the L3200 is a better tractor for the price than the B3200 (or any other B) because of the weight and heftier build. I'm less confident of that.

debp

For resale I would think HST is a resale factor, say goodbye to all the potential buyers where HST is a must have leaving you fewer buyers. Others could better comment but from what I have seen shopping for a tractor these past several weeks HST seems a lot more popular. I personally would choose a tractor that had a Kubota loader vs an Ansung all things being equal.

So you have 5.4 acres and expect to use it for moving heavy snow, mowing tall grass with a brush hog and other "bigger" work. That doesn't sound like a 2320 to me. I just purchased a B2920 and chose it over the larger B3200 because I have to navigate around the house, trees, typical 1 acre yard environment and smaller is certainly a plus in that environment. The B2920's backhoe and loader are sufficient for my needs and I'll be using a mid mount mower. But if I also had to move heavy snow and hog 5 acreas of tall grass I'd go up to the B3200 if not larger.

 

[debp]

Okay. Thanks for that advice, deathtbb. One last question (maybe last (-, is the jerking 3 pt. hitch just a problem on some economy Ls and Ms, but not the B. I understand the 1/4" valve, I think, but from what I selected to read, it looked like the hard jerking was only a problem on the Ls and Ms.

Deb

 

[deathtoblackberries]

Okay. Thanks for that advice, deathtbb. One last question (maybe last (-, is the jerking 3 pt. hitch just a problem on some economy Ls and Ms, but not the B. I understand the 1/4" valve, I think, but from what I selected to read, it looked like the hard jerking was only a problem on the Ls and Ms.

Deb

I am not knowlegeable on the hard jerking issue other than what I have read here on the forum, apparently some are worse than others and Kubota made some changes over the years. Sounds like those with the issue are fairly annoyed with it, I read something last night where a guy was suggesting to have a heavy implement loaded and test it out before you buy.

 

[TripleR]

The quarter inching vs the position control with jerky upward motion for some may be a toss up. I dislike quarter inching and would pick any position control even the jerky ones on the Lxx00. To get position control in a B Series you have to go to the B3030/B3000 or their latest incarnation and the increase in cost is significant.

 

[debp]

Thanks. Great info. Back to the dealership we go.

 

[1savoy]

Hi debp,

Looks like you have had alot of good advice so far. I just stumbled across this on you tube and thought you might like to see the L3200/ 3800 in some tight spots, if you have not seem this video yet. L3800 - YouTube I down sized to a smaller place a little while back and had me looking at the B's. All said and done I ended up with the L3800. It is still quite a small tractor and has alot of bang for the buck. It is a basic no frills tractor, but that is what I like. Good luck with your shopping and decision.

Russ