'73 MF135 Perkins diesel AD3.152 help

[zslnk]

Wells VR715 or import replacement.

Here is a pic of mine. It provides solid state voltage regulation to the externally regulated alternators without any wiring changes. Modern regulator, no contacts, no over/under charging, no wiring changes.

 

[The kid]

Some tractors had an alternator with an external regulator. Delco 10DN. Mine was born with this configuration and I simply replaced the external regulator with a solid state version that looks the same and plugs right in. It was less than $25.

It regulates like a modern alternator with solid state internal regulation but looks stock.

That 10DN alternator will set you back anywhere from $85 to $150 if you ever have to replace it. The Delco 10SI which doesn't require external regulation can be found working used at a junk yard for $10 or new for less that $50. Either way would work. One way is cheaper though. A 10DN would probably have to be ordered. Not very common just as the Genny. The SS VR is around $20 +shipping.

 

[zslnk]

Sure, but I had a 10DN and didn't like the crappy regulation. For $25 my problem was solved and my tractor looks like the way it did the day it rolled off the line without a mangled wiring harness like most 'restorations'.

 

[The kid]

Sure, but I had a 10DN and didn't like the crappy regulation. For $25 my problem was solved and my tractor looks like the way it did the day it rolled off the line without a mangled wiring harness like most 'restorations'.

I'm not saying it's not as good. I mentioned the cost difference if your alternator fails you could then switch over. As I mentioned to lug nut. A lot of folks will leave the existing VR to maintain an original look and use it as a tie point. I started to, but mine looked pretty rough and didn't want to put the effort into restoring the looks of something that was replaced. It's good to know that there is a solid state version out there at a reasonable price.

 

[lugnut1009]

Haven't done much with my tractor lately. But I did just leave the dealership, I ordered the hydraulic cover so I can take off this auxiliary hydraulic junk.

 

[lugnut1009]

Well, I picked up my cover from the dealer yesterday, thought it would be a simple replacement. And it would've been if one of the two allen bolt heads didn't strip out... I guess after almost 40 years it's gotten a little rusted and stuck. I guess I'll get some new bolts and drill this one out.

 

[MasseyWV]

Well, I picked up my cover from the dealer yesterday, thought it would be a simple replacement. And it would've been if one of the two allen bolt heads didn't strip out... I guess after almost 40 years it's gotten a little rusted and stuck. I guess I'll get some new bolts and drill this one out.

Rust is a common problem on these old tractors, and I've had more than a few stuck and/or broken bolts to contend with myself. Before drilling it out you might want to consider welding a nut onto it and using a wrench for removal.

 

[lugnut1009]

Well this one is recessed over an inch deep.

I can take the rear bolt out and move the hydraulic assembly, the bolt is free on the threads, it is rusted around the head inside the recessed hole. I filled it with penetrating oil and left it hoping it will free it up a little. But the only solution I really see is drilling it out. I really need about a 3/8" left hand drill bit, so hopefully it won't drill it all the way out before it gets it loose and backs it out.

 

[MasseyWV]

Well this one is recessed over an inch deep.

That changes everything, and I agree that welding a nut to it under those circumstances would be impossible.

Have you considered using an easy out, also called screw/bolt extractors? Avoid the cheap junk and use a good set like those made by Irwin for the best results. Another thing I've found that sometimes helps, is to take a piece of rod and lightly hammer the top of the stuck bolt prior to removal, the shock helps to dislodge the rust.

 

[lugnut1009]

I tapped on it quite a bit with the 5/16" standard allen wrench I was using with no help. I was going to try an EZ out but I couldn't find the right one at my house. And instead of buying an EZ out I'd rather just buy a left hand drill bit and be assured to get it out one way or the other. I even took a very thin punch and tapped tiny holes around the edge of the bolt to try to help the penetrating fluid to seep in and break up the rust. I am using Kroil oil so if anything will get it done that will.