Oil & Fuel Dirty oil

cadale · Feb 3, 2013

Hello

I just joined, after occasionally lurking here the past several years. After gained experience with old 50s tractors the past four years, I recently upgraded to a Kubota L3130, with FEL.

The engine oil was filthy, and the markings on the filter said 2009, so its been a while since any maintenance was done, but it runs well. Even after changing the oil and filter, the oil is still black.

Should I run it a few hours and replace the oil, again?

Also, there is a black knob atop the joystick which can slide into two positions-anyone know what its does? The control is an L2213A.

thanx

Dale

whistlepig · Feb 3, 2013

They make an engine flush for this. I have never tried it so I can't say how well it works.

Deano · Feb 3, 2013

Picture for knob please. My friend had the L3130 and have swapped tractors with him, but need picture.

JimRB · Feb 3, 2013

My JD will have clean oil for a few hours. My VW and my Cummins oil will look dirty fairy quick. The VW oil will look black in just the time it takes to drive down off the ramps, move the ramps and pull back in. It is really not unusual for diesel oil to look black after change and a few minutes of running.

Some loader controls have lock outs. It lets you move the valve on way but not the other.

cadale · Feb 3, 2013

ok, thank you all for the input. I have never worked on a diesel engine so was unaware that the oil is commonly black. Wonder why?
My computer skills do not allow me to pop a photo online of the knob. Its a small black knob that sticks upwards about 2 inches and is constrained to slide in a U shape. I suppose I could experiment.

Clint S · Feb 3, 2013

In my experience (and it's not that much) diesel turns oil black VERY quickly. It's soot/carbon being suspended in the oil. Mine is pretty black after a few hours or running after a change. It may be worse if the engine is "dirty". I usually smell the oil and that can tell alot. Does it smell burnt, like fuel or just old ? If the oil looks and smells OK I would run it and do a change or if you want a change with a pour in flush earlier than you usually would. IMO flushes were more appropriate when oil did not have the detergents it has today. That's why the oil is black because the oil is doing it's job and trapping and suspending the particulates.

Chilly807 · Feb 3, 2013

cadale said:
ok, thank you all for the input. I have never worked on a diesel engine so was unaware that the oil is commonly black. Wonder why?
My computer skills do not allow me to pop a photo online of the knob. Its a small black knob that sticks upwards about 2 inches and is constrained to slide in a U shape. I suppose I could experiment.

I think that's the lockout for the loader control. Try sliding it into the alternate position and see if you can move the joystick. There should be a sticker showing a padlock on top of the plastic cover, but that may be gone now.

Sean

cadale · Feb 3, 2013

Aha! Yes, I slid the knob over, slowly, as it does not move easily, and the joystick is locked.
Thank you all. I will not change my oil again for 200 hours, as black is now good.

Thanx Again

Dale

murphy1244 · Feb 3, 2013

cadale said:
Aha! Yes, I slid the knob over, slowly, as it does not move easily, and the joystick is locked.
Thank you all. I will not change my oil again for 200 hours, as black is now good.

Thanx Again

Dale

Who or what told you to go 200 hours on a oil change?

steyr36 · Feb 3, 2013

When I lived on the farm my dad had a 1967 JD 710, part of the maintenance in doing an oil change was creating a "short circuit" oil filter, then after running the engine hot and draining the oil, one would put on the short circuit oil filter and fill the engine with #2 diesel, run the engine no-load for 15 seconds and drain. You wouldn't believe the crap that was flushed out. Then replace with a new filter and fill with the appropriate weight oil for the season, winter or summer. This was 25 years ago mind you. The new oils have so many additives that this proceedure is not done anymore.

I run Rotella-T Syn 5w40 and an Oilguard bypass oil filter (oilguard.com/eps-20-dc.html) in my 94' Cummins. I change the oil and both filters once a year. It keeps the oil very clean for a long time. Been using this setup for over 8yrs now. Used to do the oil samples every 3 months, then went to 4 months, then 6 months and then once a year. Never had any issues.

And I fully agree with Clint S, the oil is doing it's job by keeping particles in suspension and out of contact of bearing surfaces.

John

cadale · Feb 3, 2013

Oops, manual says every 100 hours.

Thank you

PoorMansCat · Feb 3, 2013

Yep, the soot in the oil may or may not be an issue, if you are wondering about the condition of the oil, get an oil sample bottle from Blackstone Labs and have it tested.

3930dave · Feb 3, 2013

cadale said:
Oops, manual says every 100 hours.

Thank you

With unknown previous maintenance, if this was my tractor, I'd change at least the oil filter at 50 hours. Who am I kidding, I'd change the oil too, or I wouldn't sleep properly (just my OCD

, and :2cents

.

Rgds, D.

kuboman · Feb 4, 2013

I have used the diesel in the oil trick with good results. In light of our new diesel I would only use a 50/50 diesel to oil mixture and do not put the engine under load.

Chilly807 · Feb 4, 2013

The newer oils are designed to hold particulates in suspension until either you change the oil or the filter removes them. In theory if they're changed regularly you should see less sludge build-up. You may have to revise your oil change interval as a result, which is part of the reason Kubota wasn't enthused about using CJ-4 rated oils when they first came out. My manual advises NOT to use them, in fact. Funny that their own brand 10W30 meets CJ-4 standards now..

Sean

Deano · Feb 4, 2013

Glad you figured the "knob" out! The verbage knob kinda threw me. All is good! We trade tractors when he needs my backhoe and works in his back yard around his pool. The L3130 cannot fit back there too easily. I can do with his tractor a few things at my place twice as fast if we swap! But I LOVE my BX24!

JOHNTHOMAS · Feb 4, 2013

cadale said:
Oops, manual says every 100 hours.

Thank you

I'd go with manual and change engine oil and engine oil filters when the manual says to and then go to sleep feeling good.

Well, I'd change them earlier if it took me a few years to get the 100 hours on the tractor.

chim · Feb 4, 2013

Just be sure to use oil rated for diesel service.

cadale · Feb 5, 2013

Thank you everybody.

There is a wealth of knowledge here and I appreciate your time in answering my questions.
I will probably use the Kubota about a 100 hours a year, so it should outlast me. So much nicer than my previous Ford 800 series.

Dale

vabiker23518 · Feb 6, 2013

About 7 years ago, I purchased a used 1976 Bolens G152 (diesel) Iskea that was well used but also ran well. The oil would turn black as soon as I changed the oil and filter, and I change it once each fall at the end of season...usually about 70 hours/year. Never got better after each change. Two years ago I purchased a new TYM 233. I follow the same practice, and so far it is staying very clean. Don't know what all that means, but I'd stick to regular changes of oil and filter.