??? You (and the OP) has a submerged pump, therefore there is no "suction" involved. Even with the old shallow well pumps the practical "lift" (suction) is about 26' max and that is at sea level, it decreases rapidly as altitude increases. The 32' is the theoretcal with no system loses.
Your 25" sections accomplish nothing as all it takes is one leaking area to have a vacuum in the system and lose any "suck" you need (none in the case of a submerged. All I can see you doing with those check valves is adding complication and things that can malfunction. All any well needs is one check valve at the bottom, a lot of people will put on at the top (near the tank) if the pump one begins to leak. There is some consideration for the "hammer" caused when the pump starts that long column of water moving but it is well cushioned by the air bubble in the pressure tank.
Partialy open ball valve on the riser? Another thing I never heard of and another thing that can malfuntion.
I wonder what the restriction is on your riser going through all those checkvalves.
Harry K
You missed my point completely. Re read my part about suction.
When the well pump is off and all valves are closed up on top and the foot valve leaks, there indeed is suction. Or a vacuum up at the surface (this assuming the well pump is connected directly into the house plumbing) and can lead to an empty section of pipe high up in the well piping. In my case it didn't matter so much because the well discharge line goes into the open holding tank. This leads to a hammer if the pump comes on. This is why the check valves are recommended in deep wells, but it's not my recommendation for every system. I didn't invent this solution I only reported what was recommended by several well installers. And I did it on mine. My pump just fills my tank and then sits for days or weeks before coming on again. This is different than running every time a faucet is opened. Sometimes people are gone for weeks and their systems have time to leak back.
I didn't recommend a partially closed valve either. Please re-read my post. And by all means, set yours up the way that suits you. I only answered some questions and explained why I did what I did.
There are a lot of old fashioned and ill suited ways to deal with the numerous well design considerations. Sometimes I wonder if saving money is more important than doing a good job and sometimes I wonder if folks understand water dynamics. The partially closed valve theory makes me scratch my head too, as does the 1/4" line to hang the pump on. But through it all, wells seem to work pretty well. There are a lot of ways to do things.
I have actually designed and installed a complete system and used it for years. I built it to meet my needs. Those needs were low power usage at the well pump so it could run off my generator, the best reliability I could get, reserve water if the well pump failed and the best chance of retrieving the pump after years of hanging in the well.
As I mentioned, I dropped my pump and had to retrieve it. Those that recommend the cheap 1/4" poly or nylon line a are asking for trouble if they have to pull up 300 feet of pipe, a pump and a tangled mess of wire.
As far as poly pipe being suitable for domestic water use, it's been used in thousands of homes in the Bay Area for at least forty years with no ill affects. Before I used it I got the domestic water approval from the manufacturer and then went with the heavy wall, 200 PSI stuff. I like the idea of sliding it through a sleeve in concrete and being able to replace it if needed. Domestic PEX is another good solution. Simply look for the NSF-61 rating which means it has been tested and shown to not leach chemicals into the water.
By the way, the restriction in the check valves is about 2' of head each and I do understand what suction means.
If the OP has a submersible pump he'll not hear it. Unless he puts his ear to the tank.
