How to bend 1/4" plate into 18" radius?

[GPintheMitten]

I hope yaw know that huevos are eggs!!

That's great! I didn't catch that. Laughing.

My wife is frying my huevos right now, so off to breakfast I go.

 

[IslandTractor]

I hope yaw know that huevos are eggs!!

Huevos, cajones, brass ones, makes no difference, the Kioti has enough of them to bury the bucket!

Traction is my biggest challenge with this type of work, though I could use more weight on the front too.

 

[sdkubota]

I also immediately thought of using a torch and heating one side and allowing to cool. You can bend some serious steel with a torch.

 

[hunterridgefarm]

I was kidding about the English wheel and my HF press brake is too small to bend more than a foot of 1/4" at a time too.

So yes, it appears that if bending is involved that I'll get a metal shop to help.

I sell for a large machine/fab shop and this can be done on a press brake, bump method. Another method we use is a heavy duty roller. If you can find a fab shop ( or someone that manufactures tanks, like transformers for example)that has a roller this would not take long to do. Several passes on a roller and you would have the 18" r.

 

[LD1]

I saw a similar project on a rear scoop
where the part was scored with a cut off wheel every 3-4" lengthwise about 1/8" deep, heated, bent and the scores were re-welded shut. It turned out almost perfect. It had to, The scores can be made nearly exact. For the trouble I would have it rolled at a fab shop but if that's not in the cards, Score it.

Thats a good idea there. Some slicer wheels for a 4-1/2" grinder should make short work of the scoring.

Maybe use the scoring in conjunction with other methods to help control where the bends are made.

 

[cmore]

Why not use something like in post #21? It appears that no bending is required.

 

[sdkubota]

I haven't seen any need to have a radious on the "stump bucket" based on the other designs on the net. Why go round?

 

[aczlan]

I have a shop down the road that could do it easily and they are a fairly small shop. I would call your normal shop and ask if they can do it, or if they know someone who can. They probably know who does what in the area and you may get a better price if "Mike from Jim's metalworks sent me over"

Aaron Z

 

[IslandTractor]

Straight bucket sides would certainly be easier to fabricate and most stump buckets are made that way. I originally liked the idea of round after hearing complaints from some stump bucket owners about how soil would be jammed into the bucket and be difficult to dump. I cannot remember exactly what design had that problem but it was a straight wall type.

Still, as I ponder the hassle involved in getting a big piece of 1/4 cut to shape and then transported to an as yet unidentified metal shop with big rolling equipment and then picking it up etc etc, it does seem like it would be much easier to just get a half sheet of steel and cut it up for a straight sided bucket. Or, to start with a length of 36" pipe and cut it into appropriate pieces for reassembly (still haven't taken time to figure out the geometry of the cuts though I imagine it is obvious to some of you).

 

[sdkubota]

Another thing, a rounded sided bucket would not have the same prying strength as a straight sided of the same height. It also looks like there is a whole lota prying going on. Save yourself headache and go with the straight sided....the manufacturers that have to uphold a warranty do.

 

[PapaPerk]

I have an extra full skidsteer QA attachment blank and would like to fabricate a simple stump bucket by welding a radius bent 1/4 inch plate as in the attached photo below. The fabrication would be simple if I could figure out how to make the bend in the 1/4 plate. I'm estimating it is an 18", maybe 20" radius. Assuming I start with just a flat plate of 1/4" steel, pre cut to size, what is the best way to get the proper radius bend and hold it in place while it gets welded to the back plate?

I have at my disposal a 10ton "jaws of life" gizmo with a 5ton pull back ram. I have ratchet straps (thick ones). I have a 20ton brake press but it is only about 24" wide at the base (HF model) so I don't see that as useful (the bucket length is probably at least 30-36 inches long.

I was thinking that if I could get an initial bend in the plate just by putting the ends on blocks and driving the tractor through the middle, that I could then attach either a come a long or the pull back ram or even ratchet straps and then just continue to bend it to the correct radius by pulling the ends together. Is that nuts? Can anyone tell me the amount of force necessary to put a 18" radius in 1/4" x 36" tapered steel plate? I was thinking I could just weld some temporary hooks to the edges and use those for attachment points for the bending operation and would then just grind them off once I'd welded the thing to the back plate.

How would you suggest I proceed given this work would need to be done in the field rather than in a metal shop?

Hey that's my tractor! With my bucket! LOL :laughing:

My scoop is 5/16" sheet... it was run through a rolling mill and rolled to print. Another option is to use steel pipe and cut out the profile.

Good luck!

 

[PapaPerk]

Another thing, a rounded sided bucket would not have the same prying strength as a straight sided of the same height. It also looks like there is a whole lota prying going on. Save yourself headache and go with the straight sided....the manufacturers that have to uphold a warranty do.

My rounded bucket is plenty strong. Round is always stronger than flat...

 

[PapaPerk]

Seems like an odd field, where you have access to all of these tools, but not a truck to bring it the plethora of metal shops in the country.

It would literally take me 15 minutes to make that radius with the roller. Another 15 minutes to cut the back plate to fit and 5 to weld the two together. In less than 40 mins you would be 90% finished. Now consider the time wasted doing it "in the field" vs driving to a nearby metal shop.

But hey, maybe you just want the challenge..

:thumbsup:

 

[muddstopper]

You probably wont like my suggestion, but I know it will work. If you run a bead of weld the lenght of the metal, it will start to curve. Move over about an inch and run another bead and then repeat until you have the curve you want. Start in the middle of the sheet of metal and alternate from each side of the first weld as you work yourself toward the outer edges. Yep, lots of welding and a rough surface when you are thru, but it will work.

 

[IslandTractor]

You probably wont like my suggestion, but I know it will work. If you run a bead of weld the lenght of the metal, it will start to curve. Move over about an inch and run another bead and then repeat until you have the curve you want. Start in the middle of the sheet of metal and alternate from each side of the first weld as you work yourself toward the outer edges. Yep, lots of welding and a rough surface when you are thru, but it will work.

I would imagine just gas heat applied in a similar fashion would work too and be less messy.

 

[sdkubota]

Hey that's my tractor! With my bucket! LOL :laughing:

My scoop is 5/16" sheet... it was run through a rolling mill and rolled to print. Another option is to use steel pipe and cut out the profile.

Good luck!

View attachment 280400 View attachment 280401

You did a real nice job...looks factory made!

 

[IslandTractor]

Hey that's my tractor! With my bucket! LOL :laughing:

My scoop is 5/16" sheet... it was run through a rolling mill and rolled to print. Another option is to use steel pipe and cut out the profile.
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Thanks for posting the photo. That is wha got me thinking about this project again.

 

[sdkubota]

I like the saw teeth on some of the commercial made ones and would think those serations would come in handy.

 

[tcartwri]

I like the saw teeth on some of the commercial made ones and would think those serations would come in handy.

For the Zombies... :mischievous:

 

[sdkubota]

For the Zombies... :mischievous:

Great minds think alike!:thumbsup: