best material for parking a car or tractor on?

[madmax12]

I want to put in a gravel driveway and maybe build a deck (next summer for the deck?), and I plan to park vehicles on the driveway and under the future deck (the deck would have a roof under it, so no rain/snow will be going through it).

My understanding is that parking on soil or grass rusts out cars, etc. I was thinking gravel would be dry and safe.

Someone at work said cement/concrete is bad....whereas I thought that would be among the best choices. He said a wood floor is the best, like in an old garage/barn.

How would you compare the parking area materials? And if it were u, what would u design to park your car on?

 

[RDrancher]

Do you work with Cliff Clavin? :confused2:

If you can afford to do it right, concrete is by far the best material to park on. Gravel would be fine too. Proper drainage is the key to either material performing well.

 

[kensnelling]

I haven't really noticed any difference parking on concrete, asphalt, or gravel. Dirt/grass I haven't seen any aditional propensity for rust, it just ruts worse than a good gravel base. Honestly, the worst I've ever seen for rust is in a barn where livestock has been kept. The acids from urine come out of the ground and can create some impresive rust.

Ken

 

[dave1949]

I see you are a fellow Mainer, which means you may use chains on your tractor. The v-bar, aggressive chains will do a number on concrete surfaces. Maybe something to consider if you plan on parking your tractor there, or plan on reaching in with your FEL to clear snow.

Asphalt or concrete are much easier to sweep off and keep them looking nice compared to gravel. Ice and snow on asphalt melts away faster if it gets any sun on it. I wouldn't even consider grass/dirt as a long-term choice.

Concrete and asphalt are durable, but once you have it, you have it :laughing: Gravel can be moved easily and used somewhere else.

Those are the pros and cons I can think of.

 

[newbury]

In your location asphalt might be less expensive than concrete and easier to control cracking and definitely easier to repair than concrete.
In Vermont I liked asphalt, in Mississippi there are only a few winter days it doesn't get HOT and I don't like to try and work under my vehicle with my back roasting on pavement or being punctured by gravel. Wood would be nice. Have you thought of a good tile floor

 

[Gary Fowler]

Wood directly on the ground for parking on is best?. Whoever told you this tale is woefully behind the times or just plain stupid or maybe owns a lumber yard. I would suggest not taking advice from this person again. Concrete is best, followed by asphalt, brick, gravel then wood and finally dirt. None of these would cause rust unless the soil is contaminated with acids or salts. Concrete and asphalt would seal the soil to prevent migration of the salts upward to an extent whereas brick, gravel or wood would allow the vapors to continue to rise up and possibly cause rusting.

 

[KPark]

Concrete is porous and allows water to absorb, as well as promoting condensation. Not a good thing for metal. If the concrete has a good sealer applied, then that will help. The best I've seen is a heated and sealed slab which keeps the condensation from happening and seals the moisture into the concrete, but this would be showroom quality. If you just want something to park on top of for an extended period, try to find asphalt "crumbles". Basically it is just pavement broken down into pebbles. It packs very well and still has the tar residue to promote water run-off. If you plan on working on the area, then either smooth pavement (blacktop) or a painted concrete slab would be the ticket.

 

[troutsqueezer]

Do they have decomposed granite (DG) there? That is what I use. Water drains right thru it but it remains compacted. Easy to walk on, drive on, work on and doesn't create dust. It's cheap too.

 

[dave1949]

Do they have decomposed granite (DG) there? That is what I use. Water drains right thru it but it remains compacted. Easy to walk on, drive on, work on and doesn't create dust. It's cheap too.

That wouldn't be bad either. I think the nearest thing here would be "crusher dust". The same thing used on the final layer under patio blocks, etc. It packs tight enough to shed some water. It does track in if you have an house entry where you need to walk across it with damp shoes. But, 2-3 inches of that packed makes a fairly durable surface quickly. It's is a bit pricey. Weeds and grass will root in it.

 

[madmax12]

Ok. From now on I'm only drinking with cliff claven. I ain't listening to anything else he says...though he is interesting.

Thanks for all the feedback. I've never even heard of decomposed granite, but I will ponder that, too. As mentioned, I figured gravel was good for tryin out my driveway idea, but wouldn't prevent that from becoming something better down the line. If I build it correctly, and like the way it works, I could top it with any of the other ideas later...right?

And I think you guys agreed that gravel would be safe for vehicle metal body/frames, regarding rust/corrosion....as long as it is sloped properly and all drainage issues are properly dealt with.

Asphalt better for Maine weather. Cement ok if sealed. Chains may wreck cement (and probably asphalt)...and if not careful when plowing, ill find gravel everywhere but my new driveway.

Please correct anything I misunderstood, and share any ideas. I appreciate all your insight.

Thank-you

 

[rd_macgregor]

My drive is gravelled, but, since it isn't real smooth/level, I tend to pick up some gravel with the blower and get a bit of windrow effect on the lawns...at least until a nice ice pack has developed. I don't have chains, so concrete or asphalt would work for me (if I could afford it, that is!). Recycled asphalt (packed and rolled) is OK, but not as durable as fresh.
I don't think sealing concrete is as big an issue as some make it out to be; if it were me laying new concrete, I'd just put a vapor barrier down UNDER it...in the long run, additional front-end cost of some plastic has to be cheaper than periodic re-application of sealants.
BOB

 

[Gary Fowler]

Concrete is porous and allows water to absorb, as well as promoting condensation. Not a good thing for metal. If the concrete has a good sealer applied, then that will help. The best I've seen is a heated and sealed slab which keeps the condensation from happening and seals the moisture into the concrete, but this would be showroom quality. If you just want something to park on top of for an extended period, try to find asphalt "crumbles". Basically it is just pavement broken down into pebbles. It packs very well and still has the tar residue to promote water run-off. If you plan on working on the area, then either smooth pavement (blacktop) or a painted concrete slab would be the ticket.

Only sweating of concrete occurs on inside slabs that werent properly constructed. All covered slabs sweating can be prevented by laying down a sheet of polyethylene film as a vapor barrier under the slab before pouring. Outside slabs dont have that problem.
Rock is rock regardless of whether it is decomposed granite or river rock or crushed limestone or even crushed concrete. Only rock I would suggest not using is crushed slate as it decomposes quickly when exposed to the sunlight into a fine dust. It is cheap here in Arkansas and I used some for a golf cart pathway. If is fine for a while but gets finer and finer within months and is soft when wet but very firm when dry. Not good on hills as it washes away easily. SB2 1 1/2" minus makes a good rock driveway but I think long term, concrete is cheaper than any rock as it has no maintenance like rock and asphalt. Be careful of asphalt paving guys as you can get screwed on their "in the neighborhood" prices and can cost you more than a concrete slab.

 

[dave1949]

If I build it correctly, and like the way it works, I could top it with any of the other ideas later...right?

Otherwise known as "punting" :laughing:

I think that is a good approach if nothing sounds certain to you right now. There's always time to make mistakes.

You could put a double layer of 6 mil black plastic under it and that would be there if you want it later. I would get your drainage grade set before putting down the plastic as it will be pretty impermeable. You could also set the finished height of the gravel to allow room for concrete/asphalt later if you decide on one of those. Save a lot of work.

 

[madmax12]

More great insight, thank-you. I've been learning g recently about geo textile, and may be using that under the gravel. I talked to the company that did my neighbors asphalt driveway, and they said they packed a sand base, laid geo fabric, then gravel then asphalt (total 12 inches deep, but I don't think they said how many inches gravel vs asphalt).

If I were to top it with cement in a few years, would you guys consider geo textile appropriate? Or would that be an incorrect application as a vapor barrier, UNDER as rd suggested? Hmmm... Or did Gary say unsheltered cement wouldn't need the vapor barrier...

I'll grasp this all eventually...

Because I'm not positive how I want everything permanently, the plan is gravel for now. But like Dave said, I want it set up for possible asphalt/cement in the future. Suppose I were to have it be gravel for 3 years or so, would that need to be 12 inches deep (Maine)... And still leave enough room for say 4 inches of asphalt/cement in the future.

If I'm making any sense, that means to me ill need to make sure I dig down 16 inches, then lay geo textile, then 12 inches gravel (1 size or big then small?)...then the space is available for future change...

...and beware of driveway gypsies... They do come around just as u described. Have had several "offers" to fix the small asphalt driveway we do have. I want to do gravel next to that and around the house. Just want to design it so it looks nice, and not as a mistake... Wife and I still having trouble picturing it. Laid out clothesline, etc, trying to grasp the finished look.

I don't know if that made sense. Just worked over 14 hr shift... Tomorrow ill know better if what I wrote makes sense. Thx guys, you r great!!!

 

[boggen]

how big will the deck be? length? width? height? errr clearance between ground level, and any sort of run off below deck?

any pictures of area for plan deck/driveway?

are you looking at putting in an access road/driveway that wraps around house? or just an area to park tractor / lawn mower and some larger objects like wheel barrow, grill and like?

 

[schmism]

I always like brick/pavers..... easy to install, flat and hard "like" concrete at a fraction of the price, but will still drain some water while letting a majority run off.

 

[madmax12]

how big will the deck be? length? width? height? errr clearance between ground level, and any sort of run off below deck?

any pictures of area for plan deck/driveway?

are you looking at putting in an access road/driveway that wraps around house? or just an area to park tractor / lawn mower and some larger objects like wheel barrow, grill and like?

I haven't got pics, now...

Your questions are great. Some of them are still questions for us. This project was one of the reasons for the tractor purchase.

1. Deck Dimensions.
a. Potentially L36xW16. But that's an idea, only, at present.
b. Height. House is split foyer / raised ranch, with small deck (L12xW10) off the kitchen. Land rises from slab level in front of house (drive out garage is part of basement/1st floor) up about 18 inches to the back of the house. So, the Deck has a shed under it, with a cement slab, but if you are 6'+ tall...you will bang your head.
c. So, directly behind the house, I want to LOWER the grade 18 inches... and if that were to become a gravel surface (and/or future slab), I'd have to go an additional 12-16 inches for the base, then build the gravel (road?), the top of which needs to be 18-22 inches lower than the current grass/slab surface.
d. Right now, we may be leaving a-c for next year.

2. Driveway Wraps around the house? Maybe/Yes.

I posted this on one of the other drivewayish threads a few days ago, this is someone elses and it is a mirror image of something like we are thinking... but it still doesn't quite look right, so we are trying to figure out how to do what you see here... only "pretty."

Dirty Gravel or Clean Gravel for a Driveway/Parking Area?

I have an asphalt drive from the street to garage. I'm leaving that alone.
Next to it, is lawn. I want to do what you see in the above picture and put in a gravel drive about that size, in almost the same exact way...abutting the asphalt driveway. But for me, it would be the other side of the house, a mirror image.
Here's a link to a thread of the above picture in stages...scroll down (in the linked page) to see the 5 pics:
Dirty Gravel or Clean Gravel for a Driveway/Parking Area?

NOTE: The grade/slope you see in the pictures, is the OPPOSITE of the grade/slope of my yard... These are NOT pictures of my house, so please don't let the pics confuse you... they were to only illustrate part of the driveway concept.

3. I'm hoping, if we make the deck that big, to make it function a little like a 4 car carport/shed/garage. So, tractor, implements, cars, trailer, etc... Also toying with the possibility of using it for outdoor entertaining (rain) if I were to pull the cars, tractor, trailer out for those occasions.

Hard to picture/take in/ grasp???

Yes... for us too.

The driveway is a given.

The deck, however, is also sometimes replaced by a garagish addition on the otherside of the house, where the garage door would be in the backyard at the end of the wrap around driveway.

I know it's not fair to throw all this contradiction at you... but it is what's goin on in our heads.

Thanks for trying to help :confused2:

 

[madmax12]

I always like brick/pavers..... easy to install, flat and hard "like" concrete at a fraction of the price, but will still drain some water while letting a majority run off.

Some of the comments I've heard concerning pavers, is plowing and frost heaves in the winter... but done right, they can be beautiful.

 

[dave1949]

I always like brick/pavers..... easy to install, flat and hard "like" concrete at a fraction of the price, but will still drain some water while letting a majority run off.

I forgot about those, they are nice. One huge advantage is they can taken up if need be, like to fix a drain line or whatever, and relaid.
I wouldn't put plastic below those, yes there is some drainage through them, slowly. They would be swimming in saturated stone with plastic below I fear.

 

[boggen]

6' tall and banging your head, just sounds like "yuck" to me. more so once you get lights installed. and then non stop glar of lights right into your eyes. if you could forget the deck, and say just build a garage extension. with a taller ceiling.... 7 to 8 feet high or perhaps a little taller.... the area would more likely be more inviting. and not have head aches, from lights blinding you.

or when you walk out onto deck, you have to take a couple steps up onto the deck as you come out the door. to give you more room underneath.

or perhaps digging down further, to increase your height. and installing a french drain, and sump pump. to deal with water.